New guy, trying to get SeaDoo's ready for the water. 95 & 96 GTX's.

[RedAggie03]

I took both GTX's out to the lake today. The 96 ran great!! Only issue remaining is the gas gauge doesn't work, but I have a new float that I need to install. Very happy. I even managed to throw myself off once

The 95, not so much... It did not run well. The fuel gauge also doesn't work and I already replaced the float, so it's something else. Here's a video I made of my 95 and what it's doing. It also needs a new wear ring I can tell.

http://youtu.be/2ymU-J3DyE8




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[purple_people_eater]

start with a new fuel selecter. how did the lines inside the tank look? have you greased your carrier bearing?

 

[RedAggie03]

New fuel selector? I didn't see lines inside the tank?? No I have not greased the carrier bearing, where is it and would that cause the issue I'm seeing?


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[purple_people_eater]

on the drive shaft, right behind the motor, and yes it could be seizing, and when they seize, bad things happen. i'm referring to the passages in the fuel baffle, where they clear? and yes, get a new fuel selector, the wsm ones are only 20 bucks.

 

[Strizzo]

Is the gauge showing empty all the time? Or is it just dead?

 

[RedAggie03]

It doesn't show anything, just the red low fuel warning light


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[RedAggie03]

[MENTION=37676]purple_people_eater[/MENTION] - I'll check it. I did notice the grease zert. I can turn the motor by hand with the wheel thing right there. I checked the passages in the fuel baffle, I even ran a drill bit by hand in there, they were rather clean. That bit on the top of the tank with the 4 nipples and fuel gauge plug is called a fuel baffle?


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[Strizzo]

If you run it with the seat off, if the carrier is sticking you'll see it twisting the rubber coupler. I don't think that is your issue since you didn't get to run it enough to heat up the bearing.

Your fuel gauge is probably faded out from the sun, and you probably also have an issue with the fuel baffle. There is a fusible link that can burn and make them read empty all the time.

 

[RedAggie03]

Which should I replace first and is there a way to test them?


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[Strizzo]

You can check resistance at the wiring coming out, the manual has the exact specs, if the signal is more than empty, replace the gauge. If you hit the start button twice without the key on, it should wake up the mpem, and self test the gauge. All of the LCD and all four LEDs should come on for a second or two. Here's my NOS gauge all lit up:



If you get nothing from the baffle, it needs work.

 

[RedAggie03]

Thanks, I'll give it a try tonight and report back, thanks.

 

[purple_people_eater]

that bearing can heat up and seize in about 30 seconds if its not lubed and will cool right back down if its in the water, i don't think that is the issue here but i always tell people about it since its almost always neglected. i've been working on a 93 gtx (same thing as these, but with the 587) and thought it was the carbs as it was doing the same thing the op's ski was doing in the "on" position. so i sent hours trying to tune in the dual carbs on that model when finally that bearing hard seized to the shaft, spun out the thru hull fitting and nearly sunk the ski. lessons learned in life are always learned the hard way lol.

yes the fuel baffle is the thing that your fuel lines attach to and houses your gauge stuff. if all that is good and clear next go to the water separator, the o-ring seal could be bad and allowing air into the system and that causes all kinds of hell. so start with replacing the selector switch, grease the carrier bearing, and check that separator o-ring.

 

[RedAggie03]

not the o-ring, I already replaced that and the filter. I'll check the other stuff...

 

[RedAggie03]

Checked the compression on both SeaDoos.

1995 GTX:

PTO - 138 psi:

Stator - 140 psi:

Plugs:

1996 GTX:

PTO - 155 psi!!:

Stator - 156 psi!!:

Plugs:

Wow, the 1996 is like new. I know the PO had the top end rebuilt though due to a broken oil line.


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[RedAggie03]

Pulled off the carbs off the 95 tonight. Realized I neglected to tighten the four long bolts that hold the carbs to the manifold... Sh!t. Oh well, i'm going to rebuild them anyway and put them back fresh.

I also pulled the pump to replace the wear ring on the 95 as well. At least I tried. Some hick ass mechanic put half a tube of RTV at the base where the neoprene seal would go and I cannot get the pump to break loose from the hull to save my life. Any suggestions???


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[purple_people_eater]

that could have been causing your issue on the 95. and you're tackling it the correct way, fresh rebuilds.

and don't knock the rtv in place of the neoprene seals lol. i personally hate those things, especially in the higher performance skis. they always allow cavitation in my experience. heck, one of my buddy's put his scat trak magnum pump on his race ski with 3m heavy duty windshield adhesive. when he pulled the pump after that the wear ring was still stuck to the hull lol.

in an answer to your question get a 2x6 or 2x8, 2x10,2x12, whatever you've got, and some 6" m8 1.25 bolts and washers. put your nozzle on the piece of wood and mark the bolt holes so you can get the pattern for the pump. drill the holes out, put your bolts in and now you have yourself a homemade pump puller.

 

[RedAggie03]

I just read this somewhere else... "Pulling the pump on a '95 is NOT simple! (you must be thinking about the '96 and newer pumps, they are a piece of cake...) '95 and older pumps are glued to the transom, so they take a lot of work to remove. You will need a putty knife, a heat gun, and heat up the putty knife and slide it around the edges to break the silicone bond. Some guys even use a come-a-long against a tree to apply pull to get them off. "

DAMNIT. No wonder I was expecting this to be easy after rebuilding my '96. I'm about to put this damn '95 up for sale and find me a '96 XP.

 

[Strizzo]

when i pulled the pump on my 95, i just cut as much of the RTV as i could (you don't have to remove it, just cut it so it is weaker) especially around the water pipes. be sure to disconnect the bailer tubes and the water inlet tube inside the hull. you'll want to probably undo the small pto boot clamp in case the driveshaft is rusted inside the impeller.

now, after you have the hoses off, and the steering nozzle and reducer off the back of the pump, put a 2x4 across the rear of the hull and attach a ratchet strap to the vanes inside the pump. then start tightening the strap down. if it starts feeling like its pulling too hard, stop and let the tension work on the RTV for a minute, maybe run your knife around the pump some more to cut the stuff while its being pulled. in the end, mine was like two or three cranks on the strap once it was tight and the pump came right off.

 

[RedAggie03]

Well for one, I did not disconnect the bailer tubes and the water inlet tube inside the hull...I made the assumption that it was like my '96. So I'll do that. Thanks for the tip on the 2x4 - I think that will help.

 

[RedAggie03]

Rebuilt the carbs on the 1995 and it runs GREAT!!! Woohoo!!!

Wear ring is toast though. Ugh.


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[RedAggie03]

I had the dealer replace the wear ring and install my anti-rattle cone. $350 later it was all done and it ran great on the water. So both GTX's are 99% perfect, but neither fuel gauge works. Since my reserve works, I'm not all that worried about it, I'll get around to it eventually.