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Need help installing my factory pipe, rev limiter and tuning the carbs

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I would contact Factory pipe direct. I'm sure they can fax or email the proper instructions.
 
I have one new in the box stored at my work. I will not be there until Monday but if you still need I can brake out the wiring instructions then. I do understand the system and have installed and worked on several if you have general questions.
 
im pretty sure its the same as the limiter in my HX if you need to look at the wiring on it.

Step 2, give me your water injection controller and solenoids :thumbsup:
 
Do a bit of searching on pwctoday.com...if I remember correctly the FP recommendations arent very good.
 
be prepared to run high octane gas higher than any pump gas many people have tried and failed even running the factory pipe instructions
 
DR Honda, this was the first thing i tried, i emailed but as most US sites they don't bother replying to international quaries, i didn't hear back from them since about 5 days now.

Matt Bradley, Yes as much info as possible will be greatly appriciated. Pm sent

Minnetonka4me, I got it from your bro, Pipe looks good.

Chris, yeah, might do that is all fails....

1995 HX, We get 98ron here at the pump. would that be good or would i need to go higher?

Thx guys:)
 
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98 octane would be great and is a good suggestion and would add to reliability with this pipe. Guyph- first measure across the outlet of the expansion chamber and tell me it's 38mm and not 34mm. If it's 34mm then you have no chance of success. That was FPP's first chamber and it didn't work. They traded many out but there's still a few floating around out there.

Even with the correct chamber these pipes like to eat rear pistons. They hold the largest potential of performance gain than any other part that you could put on a 657/717. They work "too well". What I mean by this is that the pipe will often ask for more than the oem carbs can deliver even after being re-jetted. OEM carbs had to pass emission tests to be sold here.

Now FPP had to make the kit work for the DIY at home guy. They couldn't sell too many $750 kits if a set of expensive carbs had to be purchased with them. So you must follow their instructions. They are counting on a stock ski with all other components being stock. I would set the carb adjustments a little richer and the water injection needle a little cooler. The extra octane mentioned will also help ward off the rear cylinder's detonation(pre-ignition).
 
Hi thx for the input. Internal ID is 38mm...., " Big OUFFFFFF!!!!"

My engine was rebuilt 6months ago and has maybe 15-20hrs max. New crank, pistons etc. No aftermarket carbs or head and std 150Psi compression on both. Only mods are intake grate, sponsons, solas prop and cosmetic mods, so yeah its pretty much stock.

I can't find much info on what jets to use and i have no idea how to make it run richer and cooler. Everything was rebuilt at the shop and i'm only starting to play with it now by myself and want to be sure before i do something.

If you have the manual that would be very helpful.
 
Hope they turn out. I noticed these were for the HX
 

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Guyph_01 said:
DR Honda, this was the first thing i tried, i emailed but as most US sites they don't bother replying to international quaries, i didn't hear back from them since about 5 days now.

Matt Bradley, Yes as much info as possible will be greatly appriciated. Pm sent

Minnetonka4me, I got it from your bro, Pipe looks good.

Chris, yeah, might do that is all fails....

1995 HX, We get 98ron here at the pump. would that be good or would i need to go higher?

Thx guys:)
Click to expand...

98ron is not the same as what 98 octane race gas would be in the states, it would be about the same as 91 or 93 octane. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating
 
I hope this pic is readable. They stress no other mods.
 

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98 ron (Research Octane Number) is different than what we have here in the states. In the states our pump gas is an average of the RON and MON (Motor Octane Number) values which is known as the Anti-Knock Index. MON is a better indicator of how the fuel behaves under load. There is no direct link between RON and MON so your going to have to be real careful running 98 RON with regards to timing and engine speed.
 
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Ok So from this scanned page above i need jets and needles. Where can i get them? Is second hand good or is it cheap enough to buy new?

Main jet:140
Pilot jet:70
needle&seat: 1.2

I've tried looking locally but Seadoo shop here wants $90 for just one needle:(

Any help would again be greatly appreciated.
Thx
 
Guyph_01 said:
Ok So from this scanned page above i need jets and needles. Where can i get them? Is second hand good or is it cheap enough to buy new?

Main jet:140
Pilot jet:70
needle&seat: 1.2

I've tried looking locally but Seadoo shop here wants $90 for just one needle:(

Any help would again be greatly appreciated.
Thx
Click to expand...

thats insane !

I've used jet-world.net on many occasions for misc jets & carb parts, exhaust bushings as well, y-fittings, plungers, primers, brass t-s, etc, great prices on those, but NOT the fastest shipper in the world.
 
I ship fast...but you should have 1.2n&s in those carbs already. USPS shipping for a bubble pouch is $20 flat rate.
 
I'd go 142.5 in the rear carb main jet. Just trying to head off that rear cylinderlean condition.
 
If your gas is the same as our 93 I really see problems in your future. If you can start with a blend of race and pump gas this pipe is not forgiving like the 787 pipes. The reason I stress this is because I have tried to make that pipe work on pump gas and I couldn't. I just hate to see you blow a engine.

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2
 
Ok guys,

I finally got the jets from the US today.
Main jet:140
Main jet:142.5 (was told to get for the rear carb)
Pilot jet:70
needle&seat: 1.2


Now i'm able to install those in the carbs etc but i really have no idea about tuning it. Any base line? The above manual says to put the high speed at 1/4 and the low speed at 1 1/2. What do i do next to fine tune it?

Thx:)
 
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Hi Guys,

So i took my ski out yesterday. Great fun. Big difference over a std xp:p Until pop and it would not start again. The exhaust gaskets blew!! So today i took it off and one bolt was quite loose. My problem is i was struggling to tighten them and was wandering if there is any tricks to it? must i remove the engine? Not even sure ive got the right bolts??

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Any tips would be great:p
 
Yes your going to need to get the correct bolts and exhaust gaskets. Those bolts need to be 6mm with a socket head. You have to cut down a 6mm allen (hex) wrench shorter to fit the inner ones.
 
6 or 8mm?

But yeah thx for the tip, I was able to go to a store and buy the correct bolts and a hex wrench that i grinded off. Removed the starter and was able to much more easily access the bolts and tighten them. Hopefully this time it works.

Now the only little thing bothering me is the vts... If you can have a look on my other thread so i talk about it one place:)
thx
 
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