need guidance , no power continuous beep after I hit 3000 rpm

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ed8widge

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Hi, guys first-time post here. I have a Utopia 2001 with mercury engine 2 strokes, I never had issues for 2 years until this fall. The engine started with no hesitation, run smoothly in water until I accelerate pass 3000 rpm. When I pass 3000 Engine lost power and start a continuous beep even when I return to idle but never stop running, noise only stops after I turn off the engine. It looks to me more like a gas restriction or overheated. I cannot see why it did it in the water as well with the hose attached.
The pee hole is not clogged, I have water coming out of the bottom, muffler and the pee hole. I put premium gas and original spark plugs , brand new filter, Quicksilver oil, I don't know if that could be injectors or weak gas pump. The continuous beep always preceded before losing power.
What do you think maybe the problem?
 
after 15 mins running in water, the engine is still cold, and right after coming out of the water , I run the engine with a hose for 5 mins water coming out of the pee hole is not hot or warm.
 
after 15 mins running in water, the engine is still cold, and right after coming out of the water , I run the engine with a hose for 5 mins water coming out of the pee hole is not hot or warm.

Premium gas is a waste of money.

Check fuel pressure, engine on and off. Should be 36psi.

Check the trigger coil. Connector on top of engine, aft of flywheel, on a bracket. While you are there, check the wires to the trigger. Is the insulation crumbling? At 2500-3000 RPM, the ignition system changes from low speed mode to high speed mode. Part of that is in the trigger. What happens when you are at 3000 rpm and goose the throttle?

When you checked the temp of the engine in the water, did you feel on top of each cylinder? Cold spots mean a dead not firing cylinder.

Have you checked the tps? Many threads here about it.

Have you checked the compression? Must be checked at WOT, all plugs out, and fully charged battery.

I don't see a listing of beep codes in my service book. Google "mercury outboard beep codes".
 
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Thanks, Tim for replying.
"What happens when you are at 3000 rpm and goose the throttle?" At 3000 rpm when I push it the continuous warning sound starts, as I increase the throttle the engine is losing power (won't accelerate). I can feel the engine struggles to stay on. When returning to low acceleration or back on start position engine runs fine, the engine never dies out but the continuous warning stays on.

The whole engine was still cold, I will pay more attention next time on the cold spot since I didn't let it run for a long time afraid that I could cause more damages.

"Check fuel pressure, engine on and off. Should be 36psi." the engine has 3 different fuel pumps, the electric, the pulse, and one at the separator (I believe) . The 36 psi isn't before the injectors?
What TPS stand for?

Tomorrow after work I will check for compression and let you know my values as soon as I get them. I am more concerned about the trigger coil. Do you know where to get it online?
 
Continuous beep could also mean Oil System issue putting the engine in limp mode.

Check the level on the engine mounted oil tank, if not full top it off and make sure cover is on tight. If full check continuity on Oil level sensor. Manual should tell you how to check it, I added a copy of that page below.


The Oil level sensor is notorious for going bad. Easiest thing to due if the sensor is bad is by new tank with the sensor in it.
Screenshot_20200612-085241_Adobe Acrobat~2.jpg
Mercury Marine Smartcraft and Guardian System Warning Horn Alarms | PerfProTech.com
 
Thanks, Tim for replying.
"What happens when you are at 3000 rpm and goose the throttle?" At 3000 rpm when I push it the continuous warning sound starts, as I increase the throttle the engine is losing power (won't accelerate). I can feel the engine struggles to stay on. When returning to low acceleration or back on start position engine runs fine, the engine never dies out but the continuous warning stays on.

The whole engine was still cold, I will pay more attention next time on the cold spot since I didn't let it run for a long time afraid that I could cause more damages.

"Check fuel pressure, engine on and off. Should be 36psi." the engine has 3 different fuel pumps, the electric, the pulse, and one at the separator (I believe) . The 36 psi isn't before the injectors?
What TPS stand for?

Tomorrow after work I will check for compression and let you know my values as soon as I get them. I am more concerned about the trigger coil. Do you know where to get it online?

You are correct about the 3 fuel pumps. Yes, the vst provides constant pressure for the injectors. The pressure test point is the "tire valve" on top of the vst.

TPS stands for throttle position sensor. Similar to what is in a modern car. Except stupidly expensive-- $500+. Looks like about $25 value. Controls air/fuel mixture up to about 3/4 throttle. When it fails, system defaults to full rich.

Your issue seems to be related to a failing trigger. My engine did almost exactly the same thing-- except at 2800 rpm. Stumbled until rpm hit 4000, then ran well up to 6000 rpm. Replaced trigger, and now runs 1200- 6200 smoothly. Had Mec brand trigger, that failed. Currently using CDI brand. No problems so far after 16 months. Avail. on ebay. But be sure you get the right one by serial number.
 
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Continuous beep could also mean Oil System issue putting the engine in limp mode.

Check the level on the engine mounted oil tank, if not full top it off and make sure cover is on tight. If full check continuity on Oil level sensor. Manual should tell you how to check it, I added a copy of that page below.


The Oil level sensor is notorious for going bad. Easiest thing to due if the sensor is bad is by new tank with the sensor in it.
View attachment 48786
Mercury Marine Smartcraft and Guardian System Warning Horn Alarms | PerfProTech.com

I understand how the oil tank float switch works. Simple magnetic reed switch. Mine failed, too. New cap from ebay.

How does the ECM "know" anything about the oil pump since there are no sensors, or even wires to the pump?
 
When it gets a low oil signal it puts engine in limp mode. Should be 2 wires coming off oil cap or tank depending on model. Could be as simple as it is actually low or failed sensor.

Biggest problem on the merc sport jets is that continuous beep could be fuel related or oil related. Both put the engine in limp mode.

I had it happen and was baffled as figured it was fuel related and dr Honda said test oil tank sensor and that was what it was.
 
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Hi, it has been a few days since my last post .
Thanks to Tim and Dblackstone. Now that I am back, I did fuel test = 33psi , piston test = 110-120 psi. Oil sensor test no continuity floater up or low I did change the tank completely no more. continuous beep. That. was. the bad sensor given me the beep. I took the boat out yesterday just for about 20 min, I ran past 3000 rpm and my seep was. about 50 -55 mph .
Today , I have. different problem, as soon as launch the boat the boat start without hesitation for about a minute I turn it off to untie a rope at the dock and the boat never want to start again.
I check the spark plug , gas pressure all seem ok . I even tried stating fluid , boat will not start. Engine turn fine, freely but engine will not fire :( . I have do not. have the slightest idea why. I forget to mention that I changed the camshaft sensor next to the flywheel, clean the VST , change filter, clean the pulse pump thinking that may the cause etc...
I have the book ,any idea where to look for ? here is a pic of my engine 2003 mercury 240efi 6cyl injection
 

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When it gets a low oil signal it puts engine in limp mode. Should be 2 wires coming off oil cap or tank depending on model. Could be as simple as it is actually low or failed sensor.

Biggest problem on the merc sport jets is that continuous beep could be fuel related or oil related. Both put the engine in limp mode.

I had it happen and was baffled as figured it was fuel related and dr Honda said test oil tank sensor and that was what it was.
you are right, that was the oil sensor, changed it but now another problem engine will not start no matter what I tried
 
you are right, that was the oil sensor, changed it but now another problem engine will not start no matter what I tried

Check for spark. Sounds like you have none.
Check your kill switch. Is the center plunger being fully depressed? Check key switch also.

Cam sensor? Engine has no cam. Do you mean crank position sensor? Since that was the last part replaced, check that one.

Have you looked at the spark plugs? Are they wet or dry?
 
I meant a crank position sensor, Spark plugs look dry. I do have sparks on all plugs. I unplugged the kill switch, I probably need to review to the key switch
 
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