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My Sportster Does not start!
- Thread starter bkpamir
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sportster....
How many beeps do you get and what model sportster do you have? You need to come in with just a little bit more info to get a good start on your problem. Please post the questions asked above and someone may be able to help you.
How many beeps do you get and what model sportster do you have? You need to come in with just a little bit more info to get a good start on your problem. Please post the questions asked above and someone may be able to help you.
Welcome to the seadoo forum bkpamir.With out more info it is impossible to help you problem... I agree with seadoosnipe. This is a friendly place to go, with lots of active members eager to help. We just need more exact info to help.
Karl
Karl
ok, is it a twin engine? what year it is? How many beeps did you hear?
Ok, were getting closer...Now if you can count the beeps it will tell us what the problem is by the number of beeps. For instance if it beeps 4 times means it is in gear and won't start. if it beeps 2 times it is ready to start. if it beeps continuous it is over heated...so it is important to count the beeps.
Karl
Karl
I just went down to my Garage to check the number of beeps, interesting! now I dont get any beeps at all!! Its like no power at all. I checked both batteries, they are 100% charged. So the battery is not dead. I read the manual before, it says what each number of beep means. Lets say mine was 8 un continuous beeps (I am sure it was more than 5 beeps), does it mean I have to take it to a dealer to fix it? I am just afraid to take it to a dealer and get ripped off since I dont have experience in this.
beeps...
If you don't get any beeps at all, then the problem does appear to be a lanyard cap or post problem. Which would be a bit strange because it really isn't that old. But if you do a lot of salt water riding, that could be your problem.
With the 951, you don't have the ability to do the advanced mode testing from what I can see. But try this just to be sure. With the lanyard key off the post, push your start/stop button 5 times. If you get one long and one short beep, then you do have the advanced mode. Put the lanyard cap on. Push the start/stop button. If your engine starts, no problem. If you get a set number of beeps, count them and re-post.
Clean your lanyard post key in hot soapy water and let it air dry, or use a hair dryer.....clean your post. Do not use electrical solvent.
Do not take it to the shop yet. This may be an easy fix. You have to have beeps!......even if the mpem is bad, you will know by the beeps. I can't say it enough......no beeps, problem with cap and/or post.
Let us know your results............oh, do you have the DI or RFI model 951?
If you don't get any beeps at all, then the problem does appear to be a lanyard cap or post problem. Which would be a bit strange because it really isn't that old. But if you do a lot of salt water riding, that could be your problem.
With the 951, you don't have the ability to do the advanced mode testing from what I can see. But try this just to be sure. With the lanyard key off the post, push your start/stop button 5 times. If you get one long and one short beep, then you do have the advanced mode. Put the lanyard cap on. Push the start/stop button. If your engine starts, no problem. If you get a set number of beeps, count them and re-post.
Clean your lanyard post key in hot soapy water and let it air dry, or use a hair dryer.....clean your post. Do not use electrical solvent.
Do not take it to the shop yet. This may be an easy fix. You have to have beeps!......even if the mpem is bad, you will know by the beeps. I can't say it enough......no beeps, problem with cap and/or post.
Let us know your results............oh, do you have the DI or RFI model 951?
Here is a link for a complete explanation on the DI and the RFI models. It is easier to have you read the posted information rather to repost it. If you still have questions give us a shout and I'm sure you'll get an answer.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=1069
Karl
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=1069
Karl
OK, I did the advanced mode test. It didnt work. I mean I did not get any beeps after pushing the button 5 time with the lanyard off the post. when i put the lanyard back on, still nothing. I thought maybe something is wrong with the ON/OFF switch key in the trunk, I tested it with a test light, it works fine. So I have power even after that switch.
I dont know how the fuel system works, but I read on this label in the trunk that the engine is 951 DFI, which I think it means DI!
one more thing, I have done all these tests with a brand new battery, so the battery is fine.
I dont know how the fuel system works, but I read on this label in the trunk that the engine is 951 DFI, which I think it means DI!
one more thing, I have done all these tests with a brand new battery, so the battery is fine.
Power?
If you have any component in this ski go bad, it would be identified by a "p" code in your info center. Even if your MPEM (multi purpose electronic module) is bad, you'd know through the beeps when attaching your lanyard or through the info center.
Your lanyard and DESS system has got to make a complete circuit before the MPEM will allow power to your ski, for anything it controls.....including your accessories.
Before you go, I would check all fuses in your electrical boxes. In my Challenger model, I have to fuse boxes, one in the back at the engine compartment and one up front under the dash where my steering wheel is. I lift open the hood thing and pull out the box that has my fire extingushier an under it is another fuse block. Make sure you check all connections from your battery to your solenoid and the wires on the solenoid and your ground to the block. Because a lose connection will cause a total loss of power too. But if it's a new lanyard cap needed, an authorized Sea-Doo repair shop is the only one who can re-program a new key for it. Oh, and buy a couple extra and program. You can get up to 5.......
NOTE: I've looked for a test to check the ohms in your post, in the event you can replace it without going to the shop. The manual points out a test, but has a disclaimer that it's not for the DI models....I can't see why. Let's look at the post before you decide to take it in for a new key. When mine went out, it was the post. So I saved myself the headache of going in to the shop. Look at your post connector. I need to know how many wires you have at your connector. If you have three, I need to know the colors. Important, if one wire is black with a yellow strip going around it, then it's written like this.......black/yellow.
Also, the book does state the importance at this time with a power issue, to check all your plugs for corrosion ( the white powdery stuff in the connectors). Unplug all the connectors going to your mpem or inside your electrical box and look for corrosion. Have some die electric grease on hand and insulate with it. After pulling these plugs to your electrical box and plugging them back up, give it a try!.....and keep your fnigers crossed.
OH and very IMPORTANT...disconnect your battery before any electrical work is to be preformed!..........GOOD LUCK!
If you have any component in this ski go bad, it would be identified by a "p" code in your info center. Even if your MPEM (multi purpose electronic module) is bad, you'd know through the beeps when attaching your lanyard or through the info center.
Your lanyard and DESS system has got to make a complete circuit before the MPEM will allow power to your ski, for anything it controls.....including your accessories.
Before you go, I would check all fuses in your electrical boxes. In my Challenger model, I have to fuse boxes, one in the back at the engine compartment and one up front under the dash where my steering wheel is. I lift open the hood thing and pull out the box that has my fire extingushier an under it is another fuse block. Make sure you check all connections from your battery to your solenoid and the wires on the solenoid and your ground to the block. Because a lose connection will cause a total loss of power too. But if it's a new lanyard cap needed, an authorized Sea-Doo repair shop is the only one who can re-program a new key for it. Oh, and buy a couple extra and program. You can get up to 5.......
NOTE: I've looked for a test to check the ohms in your post, in the event you can replace it without going to the shop. The manual points out a test, but has a disclaimer that it's not for the DI models....I can't see why. Let's look at the post before you decide to take it in for a new key. When mine went out, it was the post. So I saved myself the headache of going in to the shop. Look at your post connector. I need to know how many wires you have at your connector. If you have three, I need to know the colors. Important, if one wire is black with a yellow strip going around it, then it's written like this.......black/yellow.
Also, the book does state the importance at this time with a power issue, to check all your plugs for corrosion ( the white powdery stuff in the connectors). Unplug all the connectors going to your mpem or inside your electrical box and look for corrosion. Have some die electric grease on hand and insulate with it. After pulling these plugs to your electrical box and plugging them back up, give it a try!.....and keep your fnigers crossed.
OH and very IMPORTANT...disconnect your battery before any electrical work is to be preformed!..........GOOD LUCK!
robin savell lloyd
Active Member
If any one could post electrical wireing diagram I am allmost certain this would be a easy diagnose.
I agree....
I agree Robin, but that's a Premium Member service. All the wiring diagraphms and shop manuals are here in our library for all Premium Members to use as they need.
We do the best we can to help, providing the member is staying up to date with the post. We try to answer them all in a timely fashion and I have helped solve many problems by reading the members post and finding an answer or steering them in the right direction.
I wish we could just post all the manuals for all to use, but then, the required cost to run the site would have to be funded in some other way. At the moment, I don't think we have an answer for that one yet........:cheers:
I agree Robin, but that's a Premium Member service. All the wiring diagraphms and shop manuals are here in our library for all Premium Members to use as they need.
We do the best we can to help, providing the member is staying up to date with the post. We try to answer them all in a timely fashion and I have helped solve many problems by reading the members post and finding an answer or steering them in the right direction.
I wish we could just post all the manuals for all to use, but then, the required cost to run the site would have to be funded in some other way. At the moment, I don't think we have an answer for that one yet........:cheers:
Thank you guys, your time is really appreciated. I will go and track down the wiring as far as I can go. There is only one problem, I dont know how to get the post open because everything is sealed and I dont want to break any seals because I dont want the water to get in the system. But i will follow up on the plugs and other exposed wirings. Good thing is I have test light that can help a lot.
I will keep you guys posted.
I will keep you guys posted.
bkpamir, I wouldn't use a test light. You need to use a multi meter to test for voltage. You could buy one at Walmarts or Radio Shack fairly cheap. The difference is that a test light allows voltage to flow through the circuit to light the light, in either direction (+ to -) or( - to + ). A multi meter will not over load a circuit and won't cause a spike in the 12 volt system. The multi meter will only flow voltage in one direction and not allow something to be overloaded and cause a electrical problem, by allowing power to pass through the meter...it only measures it.
Thanks for the tip. I just used the light for the main connection. The battery is 100% charged. the power shut down switch works fine. Then the power goes to a box where sparks wiring is coming out from. I get power there too. From there I am stuck. I got the dashboard thing open. I got the lanyard post out. 3 wires going into it. black, white and yellow/ black. Every thing is clean and neat. All I need is a beep.
The thing is, I was geeting beeps when I luanched it last. ( I think 8 beeps). Then I took the boat out since I didnt know what was wrong. Ever since, I dont get any beeps!
I am tired!
The thing is, I was geeting beeps when I luanched it last. ( I think 8 beeps). Then I took the boat out since I didnt know what was wrong. Ever since, I dont get any beeps!
I am tired!
Post!....
Great, it's good to see you got your post out. Now, lets see if we can test it to see if it's working right. You seem to have the correct wires for the test. Look at your white and see if it's white/grey. If it's only white, then in the test, use the white/grey as the white.
Test 1: with the cap off, put the tester wires on the black wire and the black/yellow wire. The circuit should show "open" at 68*F.
Test 2: with the cap off, put the tester wires on the grey to the post terminal (the little metal button on top of the post). The circuit should show a reading close to 0.
Test 3: with the cap off, put the tester wires on the black wire to the post ring (the little metal ring around the post). The circuit should show a reading close to 0.
Test 4: with the key ON the post, put the tester wires on the black wire and the black/yellow wire. The circuit should show a reading close to 0.
After you do this test, re-post and let us know what you got. If your not to sure on reading ohms, then see if you got a electrician friend who can help out. This post is where I think your problem is centered. If by chance it test to be good, then we'll go from there.
Great, it's good to see you got your post out. Now, lets see if we can test it to see if it's working right. You seem to have the correct wires for the test. Look at your white and see if it's white/grey. If it's only white, then in the test, use the white/grey as the white.
Test 1: with the cap off, put the tester wires on the black wire and the black/yellow wire. The circuit should show "open" at 68*F.
Test 2: with the cap off, put the tester wires on the grey to the post terminal (the little metal button on top of the post). The circuit should show a reading close to 0.
Test 3: with the cap off, put the tester wires on the black wire to the post ring (the little metal ring around the post). The circuit should show a reading close to 0.
Test 4: with the key ON the post, put the tester wires on the black wire and the black/yellow wire. The circuit should show a reading close to 0.
After you do this test, re-post and let us know what you got. If your not to sure on reading ohms, then see if you got a electrician friend who can help out. This post is where I think your problem is centered. If by chance it test to be good, then we'll go from there.
OK my friend, I bought a tester, learned how to use it and did the test.
The results where just the same as you said and the white wire has a gray strip on it. So, here are the results:
test 1: cap off, black and yellow/ black, 68.
test 2: cap off, white/ gray and terminal, 0.
test 3: cap off black and ring, 0.
test 4: cap on, black, yellow/ black, 0.
I like this challenge! What's next?!!
The results where just the same as you said and the white wire has a gray strip on it. So, here are the results:
test 1: cap off, black and yellow/ black, 68.
test 2: cap off, white/ gray and terminal, 0.
test 3: cap off black and ring, 0.
test 4: cap on, black, yellow/ black, 0.
I like this challenge! What's next?!!
Testing....
O.K.....the test numbers 2 thru 4 seem good, but where did you come up with the number 68 in test 1? That number means when you test for resitance, the measurement is most accurate at 68 degrees F. Resistance readings change according to the temperature. Look at test 1 again and see what you come up with. I think you should come up with a reading that shows an open circuit.
O.K.....the test numbers 2 thru 4 seem good, but where did you come up with the number 68 in test 1? That number means when you test for resitance, the measurement is most accurate at 68 degrees F. Resistance readings change according to the temperature. Look at test 1 again and see what you come up with. I think you should come up with a reading that shows an open circuit.
I adjusted the tester to show exactly 0 when I have close circuit. The at test one I read the number is past 60. next number is 100 and I kind of guessed that it is on 68. However this number was in my mind since you mentioned it in #20. It my not be as accurate as exactly 69. maybe it is 70 or 65. My tester is not digital, so I am just guessing the number on the gage.
Test....
O.K.....if what your saying it accurate, then your post may be bad. But let me explain this one more time, to ensure you understand what I'm saying. If you read test 1, where it says to connect the test probes to the black wire and the black/yellow wire, you should get a reading that shows your circuit is open.
The 68*F is the temperature of the day that's best for doing these test. Since measuring Ohm's is a resistance that changes with the ambient temperature. Your not looking for a reading of 68 to show up on your meter.........holding the two probes, one in each hand, look at the meter. Now, when you preform test one, that reading sholdn't change. That represents an open circuit.
O.K.....if what your saying it accurate, then your post may be bad. But let me explain this one more time, to ensure you understand what I'm saying. If you read test 1, where it says to connect the test probes to the black wire and the black/yellow wire, you should get a reading that shows your circuit is open.
The 68*F is the temperature of the day that's best for doing these test. Since measuring Ohm's is a resistance that changes with the ambient temperature. Your not looking for a reading of 68 to show up on your meter.........holding the two probes, one in each hand, look at the meter. Now, when you preform test one, that reading sholdn't change. That represents an open circuit.
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Yes, the reading does not change. I tried several times and the circuit is open in test 1 (black and black/yellow), regardless of the number which is the same on every try. The reason I say it is open is because I get a number and that is not 0. the temprature was about 75 when I did this test. On tests 2, 3 and 4 the number is 0 which tells me the circuit is close. Right? So, what am I gonna do next? Odes this mean the post is bad and it has to be replaced?
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