There are two bearings on the shaft an o-ring AND a seal at the end near the rotary valve drive splines(a spring and washers too, but that is obvious). You'll need a blind hole bearing puller. Or your gonna have to get creative and grind half the head of a screw so that it will just slip into the center of the bearing but still have a lip to catch the bearing and then put a nut on the threads and cobble up some black iron pipe and a reducer to make a makeshift slide hammer. It's pressed in there pretty good, but with this blind hole bearing puller makes it a snap. The bearing is pn: 420932797, this is the one IN the case. Both of the following pullers can be bought at Harbor Freight. The blind hole puller is dynamite, the few jobs I've used it on it has worked spot on.
A 5/16-18 socket head cap screw(allen screw) will slide in the ID of the bearing, you could get a piece of all-thread(threaded rod) at Home Depot and a coupling nut in the electrical department by the Uni-strut. Then attach the coupling nut to the 5/16 SHCS and thread the threaded rod into that, then use the PVC cap you used before and then tighten a nut down against that. It's gonna want to slip out of the bearing, but perhaps even a 5/16 hex head and just dress the points off so that it will fit down into the bearing. You MIGHT want to bolt the cases back together. To press the bearing back in you can use a 15/16 DEEP socket(so that it will be engaged into the R/V shaft bore in the case) and put an extension on that and LIGHTLY tap the bearing into the case. This is where you need to be ultra careful, you want to make sure the bearing is square to the bore, if it goes in crooked you'll run the risk of fudging the case up and ruining the bearing wile pulling it out. YOU HAVE ONE SHOT TO GET IT RIGHT. If you need to pull the new bearing cause it went in crooked I wouldn't reuse it, you should never pull a bearing fro the ID and expect it to live.
I've also "made" oval washers to fit into a bore before but they need to slip in almost vertically and wouldn't work in such a tight bore. The narrow side allow it to pass thru the bore but when pulled back up against the bearing the "long" sides of the oval will catch what you are pulling--learned that one from an old Russian guy.
You will need a tool like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html
The manual show them using this tool, I have one--it's a joke hence the reason for buying the blind hole puller. Way more positive way of extracting a bearing. As far as the rotary shaft with the brass gear, do yourself a favor and just buy one that is already together, those little clips are a bitch to get of, and you loose one of them and you'll be screaming.
http://www.harborfreight.com/15-piece-slide-hammer-and-puller-set-5469.html
Edit: I must have deleted my first line, just adding it back in.
A 5/16-18 socket head cap screw(allen screw) will slide in the ID of the bearing, you could get a piece of all-thread(threaded rod) at Home Depot and a coupling nut in the electrical department by the Uni-strut. Then attach the coupling nut to the 5/16 SHCS and thread the threaded rod into that, then use the PVC cap you used before and then tighten a nut down against that. It's gonna want to slip out of the bearing, but perhaps even a 5/16 hex head and just dress the points off so that it will fit down into the bearing. You MIGHT want to bolt the cases back together. To press the bearing back in you can use a 15/16 DEEP socket(so that it will be engaged into the R/V shaft bore in the case) and put an extension on that and LIGHTLY tap the bearing into the case. This is where you need to be ultra careful, you want to make sure the bearing is square to the bore, if it goes in crooked you'll run the risk of fudging the case up and ruining the bearing wile pulling it out. YOU HAVE ONE SHOT TO GET IT RIGHT. If you need to pull the new bearing cause it went in crooked I wouldn't reuse it, you should never pull a bearing fro the ID and expect it to live.
I've also "made" oval washers to fit into a bore before but they need to slip in almost vertically and wouldn't work in such a tight bore. The narrow side allow it to pass thru the bore but when pulled back up against the bearing the "long" sides of the oval will catch what you are pulling--learned that one from an old Russian guy.
You will need a tool like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html
The manual show them using this tool, I have one--it's a joke hence the reason for buying the blind hole puller. Way more positive way of extracting a bearing. As far as the rotary shaft with the brass gear, do yourself a favor and just buy one that is already together, those little clips are a bitch to get of, and you loose one of them and you'll be screaming.
http://www.harborfreight.com/15-piece-slide-hammer-and-puller-set-5469.html
Edit: I must have deleted my first line, just adding it back in.
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