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My FIRST 97 SEADOO GSX PROJECT.

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It was just the angle or the seals...that gear is fine. Once a gear i stripped like that the experts have always said the shaft is bent/out of spec. I have a few ready to go if you need one.

The hard part about making your own is finding a long 10mm bolt that is full thread. The tool is only about $20 so I bought one.
 
Minnetonka4me said:
It was just the angle or the seals...that gear is fine. Once a gear i stripped like that the experts have always said the shaft is bent/out of spec. I have a few ready to go if you need one.

The hard part about making your own is finding a long 10mm bolt that is full thread. The tool is only about $20 so I bought one.
Click to expand...

Thank god! What a close one. Feel like a dodged a bullet here.
 
SS,

You can't use the head bolt like I mentioned, I forgot those are M8 and you need M6. My screw is not fully threaded as you can see in the following pic's. Mine is M6X55--but you'll need to calculate the length you'll need. I used aluminum scrap we had laying around the shop and an old pulley. It's just another one of my "homebrewed" tools. Yes, PVC will work but that would have required a trip to Lowe's or HD and this was FREE!

Here are the parts I used. I set the large piece on the RV surface then put the stepped piece so the step is in the opening in the large piece. I then stuff a rag in the brass gear so it can't rotate while I tighten the screw.

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Base piece:

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Stepped piece to start:

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Flip the step up for more pulling length:

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Now for the final pull:

299.jpg



You can create what ever you want, but the piece that is resting on the case has got to be flat and smooth so you don't chowder up the surface, hence the PVC. It might not be flat, but it's plastic and SHOULDN'T damage the surface.

Hope this give you some inspiration. I have a bunch of one off tools I made for specific jobs, Sometimes I rather make it then buy it.:thumbsup:
 
When I needed long M6 bolts to pull my flywheel, I bought long 1/4 inch bolts, cut off the threaded part, pulled out the M6 die and cut my own threads. Way easier than trying to hunt down long M6 bolt.
 
Robj said:
When I needed long M6 bolts to pull my flywheel, I bought long 1/4 inch bolts, cut off the threaded part, pulled out the M6 die and cut my own threads. Way easier than trying to hunt down long M6 bolt.
Click to expand...

Good idea!
 
Bought a 1 1/2 inch pvc cap and a 6mm bold at Home Depot. Will remove rotary shaft tomorrow, wanted to do it today but the witch I mean wife had me doing other things instead. LOL
 
I final got it. I know some of you will yell how I did it, but I was careful. I put a heavy duty glove on the crank case and use a cats claw on the rotary gear, then it finally pop out causing me to bust my hand against the case. No damage to the case, why was it so hard?
 
Two things.

1. I'm glad it's out.
2. I'm glad you put something between it!

The PVC could have flexed absorbing the tension as you tightened the bolt. And did you wedge something in the gear while tightening the screw? If not it probably was just spinning, and not pulling up. This us why I said earlier that this is a shitty way because now you need to install the whole shebang by driving it in by the seal. Now find a socket that JUST slips in the bore of the hole so you know you'll be driving on the outside of the seal where all the strength is.

Congrats so far!

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
 
Like I posted before in this thread:

I measured the size socket that I used push the assembly back in. And that was a Craftsman Deep 15/16 socket, which measures 1.246"(31.66 mm) and the bearing is 1.259"(32 mm). I stress the size of the socket because it has to the the shittiest way of inserting the assembly, meaning you need to tap it in on the seal, and pay close friggin' attention to the shaft going into the bearing in the opposite side of the case. If you don't you'll punch the inner race right out of the bearing. Yeah, then your pooched and you'll need to go buy another tool to remove that(internal bearing puller). This is just another one of those critical parts in assembly. Also this size socket just clears the bore in the case.

Right Here

You need to tap it back in to the case but DO NOT hit the shaft to drive it in. Pressing a bearing in by the center race is the worst thing you could do, hence using the socket like mention above. But it has to JUST fit inside the bore of the case. I'll look to see if I have a pic to post.
 
Alright cleaned up all the brass shaving out of the case, and cleaned the crank. But I noticed that one of the bearings right next to the gear that turns the rotary shaft has a slight noise when spun, it still spins straight thoe. Is that a problem?
 
Is it the small one on the rotary drive shaft or one on the crankshaft? If you buy a new rotaty drive shaft it should come with everything EXCEPT the bearing for the opposite side in the case I think. but if it's the one on the crank, I wouldn't take the chance, replace the crankshaft. Now if that is the case you're creeping into reman engine pricing since you had to buy cylinders. You might be better getting pricing on a complete reman. The bitch of it is the cranks have a plastic cage inside the bearing and plastic and metal don't mix well. If that cage fails--kaboom you done and possibly the case too if something decides to jam and wad up in there.
 
If we are talking about crank bearings, Is it possible that you have completely cleaned out all bearing oil with solvents from that bearing? I have noticed
if you clean bearings out with parts cleaner & then spin them with your finger, they will make a some noise compared to bearings that still have oil in them. But oil or not, all the bearings should still feel very smooth when you rotate them, A few drops of injection oil should quiet it down if all your hearing is a completely dry bearing. Not trying to diagnose your bearings for you. just something to consider as well.
 
racerxxx said:
Is it the small one on the rotary drive shaft or one on the crankshaft? If you buy a new rotaty drive shaft it should come with everything EXCEPT the bearing for the opposite side in the case I think. but if it's the one on the crank, I wouldn't take the chance, replace the crankshaft. Now if that is the case you're creeping into reman engine pricing since you had to buy cylinders. You might be better getting pricing on a complete reman. The bitch of it is the cranks have a plastic cage inside the bearing and plastic and metal don't mix well. If that cage fails--kaboom you done and possibly the case too if something decides to jam and wad up in there.
Click to expand...

Well I cleaned it out last night with really hot water from my sink, and dried it. I was told by people on this tread not to use any part cleaner because it may ruin the bearings. The inner bearing on the crank shaft next to the gear that spins the rotary gear is now quiet, maybe there was a little water left in it :ack:.
What kind of oil or grease etc should I use to lube the crank now?
I have WD-40, Tri-Flow, and marine grease.
 
sselzer said:
Well I cleaned it out last night with really hot water from my sink, and dried it. I was told by people on this tread not to use any part cleaner because it may ruin the bearings. The inner bearing on the crank shaft next to the gear that spins the rotary gear is now quiet, maybe there was a little water left in it :ack:.
What kind of oil or grease etc should I use to lube the crank now?
I have WD-40, Tri-Flow, and marine grease.
Click to expand...

I know there are guys that will use kerosene to flush out & clean the crank & its bearings. Then wash it out with hot soap & water. Then Immediately blow it out & soak everything with WD-40 to displace any possible trace of water. The reason behind this method is so the crank seals do not get damaged from too strong of a solvent when cleaning. I could never bring myself to use water for fear of not getting it all out right away. Once any rust starts in the bearings, it’s a ticking time bomb moving forward. My personal feeling is the crank seals are fuel resistant, so I don’t feel they are going to be that easy to harm when cleaning the crank bearings with other solvents, But that’s just my opinion.
As far as lubricant, just use your injection oil. That’s what lubes them when its running. Anything extra just gets burned away later on.

If you still have any water in the bearings, that makes me very nervous……
 
I'm with 68, I'm as nervous as a nun at a penguin shoot. Kerosene is petroleum based, it won't hurt the seals and cleans grease and residue real good. With that you could then blow it off with a compressor and go straight to putting oil on the bearings and have no worries about corrosion--that being the main reason I suggested it a few pages back. Yes it's expensive and it's one more thing to keep around but it won't go bad like gas does. Everytime a guy on here gets water or the potential of water in the bottom end of the engine they are all imperative to get it out and run it as much as you can and to fog the engine to help fight corrosion. So why someone would suggest to wash a crank in water is beyond me. That's like saying it's OK to wash your wife's vagina with gas, the long term results are not gonna be good. You gotta treat this stuff with the utmost of care, as I have posted before. The only thing I would wash on these engines with water is something that is all aluminum or cylinders after a bore and hone job, and even that puts me over the edge. Flash rust can occur in no time, like walking from one end of the shop to another. I know your getting in deep to this engine money-wise, to the point of you could have got one from a rebuilder by now, and I'm right there with you on doing it yourself but you need to start questioning more or ship the parts off in a box to a rebuilder. I mean no disrespect by this post and am in no ways referencing the wife/gas to your other half--just an analogy.:)
 
The crank appears to be fine, I lube it up and the bearings roll smoothly, and n rust. The crank was dried right away and left in a warm house over night. I notice that I will have to replace the rotary shaft bearing that's inserted in the case, as it looks rough.
 
Need some help. Is the bearing that sits in the crank case that the rotary valve slides into called an shaft oil seal? And what tool is required to remove and install it?
 
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