My FIRST 97 SEADOO GSX PROJECT.

[Strizzo]

i wouldn't use carb cleaner for fear it might eat the rotary shaft seals and three bond that holds the case together. maybe some directed carb spray would be better, just make sure there aren't any shavings inside, one little bit can be the end of a roller bearing.

 

[racerxxx]

Split it. Threebond is like 10 bucks and I just posted a link to an OEM gasket kit for $120 the other day, aftermarket from sbt or some where is probably sub $100

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

 

[sselzer]

Here's what the hull looks like after removing the decals.

Here's are three pictures after thr carbs were removed as well as the exhaust.

 

[sselzer]

Here's what the inside of the top end looks like, and you can even see the crack.

 

[sselzer]

Here a picture of the bottom end by the PTO you can see how the paint is starting to rust.

Does anyone know how to remove this?, so i can crack open the case?

 

[Jetskigoodies]

Yes, you need to buy a flywheel puller for the 787, you can get them for about $35 on ebay
I found this one for under $30

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Seadoo-PWC-..._Watercraft_Parts&hash=item3f1cf63027&vxp=mtr

 

[Jetskigoodies]

You only need the flywheel puller to split the cases, if you want the pto off as well you will need this


http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEA-DOO-IMP..._Watercraft_Parts&hash=item4169baf8c4&vxp=mtr

$10


You will need both of these tools to take that apart. Some people use the drive shaft to remove the pto but i dont want to risk bending it while using a pipe wrench on it, the right tools go a long way

 

[sselzer]

Is there anyway to remove the pistons without using a PISTON PIN PULLER?

Can I reuse them since they are in great shape?

 

[El Toro 33809]

I fabricated a piston puller with a long nut, bolt, washer and PVC pipe. If they are not worn, you should be able to resue them.

I am not far from you (Lakeland). I have the impellar tool and the flywheel puller if you need to borrow them.

Here is a link for a gasket set. SBT is in Clearwater, so not that far from you at all.

http://www.shopsbt.com/sea-1997-gsx/48-107.html

 

[Strizzo]

You only need the flywheel puller to split the cases, if you want the pto off as well you will need this


http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEA-DOO-IMP..._Watercraft_Parts&hash=item4169baf8c4&vxp=mtr

$10


You will need both of these tools to take that apart. Some people use the drive shaft to remove the pto but i dont want to risk bending it while using a pipe wrench on it, the right tools go a long way

good to have an impeller tool around anyways, you'll use it a time or three.

 

[sselzer]

I fabricated a piston puller with a long nut, bolt, washer and PVC pipe. If they are not worn, you should be able to resue them.

I am not far from you (Lakeland). I have the impellar tool and the flywheel puller if you need to borrow them.

Here is a link for a gasket set. SBT is in Clearwater, so not that far from you at all.

http://www.shopsbt.com/sea-1997-gsx/48-107.html

Is this gasket set better than the ones on ebay for $59?
Do you think I can rent a fly wheel puller and piston puller from Autozone?

 

[Jetskigoodies]

To pull the pistons all i do is remove the c clips and then find a deep well socket that is about the same size as the wrist pins and then line them up and take a hammer and pound out the wrist pin.

 

[El Toro 33809]

Is this gasket set better than the ones on ebay for $59?
Do you think I can rent a fly wheel puller and piston puller from Autozone?

I would doubt that the gasket set is any different if they are both complete sets.

The flywheel puller is fairly specialized and I doubt if Autozone would have something that would fit. The piston pin puller could be a different story, I would imagine that they are fairly standard. In my motocross days I used the method that Jetskigoodies suggested, but used the 3/8" drive extension. They seemed to be a good fit for piston pin. Now older and wiser (that is questionable), I didn't want to put the side to side pounding on the connecting rod so I fabricated a puller. I got a 5/16 x 6 nut, bolt and washer combo from Home Depot and a short piece of PVC that the piston pin would fit in. It was a makeshift version of the pin puller that is shown in the front of the shop manual. If you need more specifics, I will take a photo for you. In regards to pulling the flywheel, once you have the puller you will need to make sure the engine does not turn over when cranking on the puller. I have seen folks jam a rag into the exhaust to hold the piston from completing its stroke. I put about 18" of cotton rope in one of the spark plug holes and it accomplished the same thing.

Good luck!

 

[sselzer]

Auto zone doesn't have enither tool, they didn't even know what I was talking about I had to show them a picture and they were still scratching their heads.

I'm going to wait till black Friday and see if SBT or Watercraft superstore has any great sales.

I also think I could split the case and cleans the cranck with removing the pistons.

I still have plenty of things to do to this ski, rebuild the carbs and replace all the oil and fuel lines, plus compound to hull to make the ghost of the graphics go away. Install a new choke cable and primer, fix the padding on the handle bar and replace the seat skin. I also need to buff the plastics with mirror glaze and bring back the color of them.

 

[sselzer]

Haven't much time to do anything lately, but I'm still cleaning parts and brought some 1000 grid wet sand paper to use on the hull.

 

[Matt Braley]

If you want a stock pipe I'll trade you one for that Coffman that was on there.

 

[sselzer]

If you want a stock pipe I'll trade you one for that Coffman that was on there.

That woudn't be a deal for me, you would have to offer more goodies for me to accept that deal.

 

[Matt Braley]

I'm not trying to take advantage of, or de-tune your ski for you. I always love adding more performance parts to my stack, but my thought is that the pipe may have contributed to that cylinder having low compression. Also I can't tell if it is a rec or race version. I have a rec one and I read that they are not much of an improvement. I like the way it is so light but have not tried it myself yet. If yours is a race version then I would offer more. I would send you a stock one with the welch plug professionally welded over because all stock ones that are not leaking will soon. I just didn't know what direction you wanted to go. If you re-use the pipe then make sure they have changed the jets in the carbs to match it.

 

[sselzer]

I'm not trying to take advantage of, or de-tune your ski for you. I always love adding more performance parts to my stack, but my thought is that the pipe may have contributed to that cylinder having low compression. Also I can't tell if it is a rec or race version. I have a rec one and I read that they are not much of an improvement. I like the way it is so light but have not tried it myself yet. If yours is a race version then I would offer more. I would send you a stock one with the welch plug professionally welded over because all stock ones that are not leaking will soon. I just didn't know what direction you wanted to go. If you re-use the pipe then make sure they have changed the jets in the carbs to match it.

I'll have to take a picture of the exhaust. I also have some type of proformance module wired in the seadoo's electric system that I am not sure of what it is or does, but I'll take a picture of that as well.

 

[sselzer]

Well I'm going to have the carbs, exhaust intake and the engine top plate powder coated atomic orange next week. It should look sick and I'll definitely post pictures. After that I'll have the rest of the engine powder coated a gun smoke metal color.

 

[68ragtop]

Alright I have the engine out and the top end off. I don't see any metal shaving from the rotary disc yet.
At this point does anyone know if I can just flush the crank case and shaft out with one gallon of carb cleaner or do I have to crack the case open?

This is just my opinion, so take it for what its worth to you.
If you have the engine out of the ski & the top end off, I would just spit the case & clean & inspect everything. Unless you find something wrong, its not going to cost you much, just more time. If there is something wrong, now is a good time to find out. If there is just one piece of debris laying in there somewhere & it doesn't flush out, theres a good chance its going to come back and haunt you. Every thing that is in the case, heads upstairs next. There is just no way to completely see under the crank.

Here is a picture from an engine I rebuilt last winter. Lost the top ring land & was shut off immediately after. Look at the mess it made . When I put engines together, everything is as clean as I can possibly make it. I even wear rubber gloves during assembly.

For the money & time it takes to go as far as you have, I would just go the rest of the way.

 

[sselzer]

This is just my opinion, so take it for what its worth to you.
If you have the engine out of the ski & the top end off, I would just spit the case & clean & inspect everything. Unless you find something wrong, its not going to cost you much, just more time. If there is something wrong, now is a good time to find out. If there is just one piece of debris laying in there somewhere & it doesn't flush out, theres a good chance its going to come back and haunt you. Every thing that is in the case, heads upstairs next. There is just no way to completely see under the crank.

Here is a picture from an engine I rebuilt last winter. Lost the top ring land & was shut off immediately after. Look at the mess it made . When I put engines together, everything is as clean as I can possibly make it. I even wear rubber gloves during assembly.

For the money & time it takes to go as far as you have, I would just go the rest of the way.

That's sucks, I have already been convince by others to pull the crank block apart, the only thing no one has answered was whether I could kept the pistons attach to the crank since there fine then just clean and inspect the crank from just removing the bottom part of the crank case.

 

[68ragtop]

You would need to pull the pistons, or the crank can't be separated from the top half of the block.
But think of it this way, then you can check the pins & bearings. The clips are the only hard thing about it, & they are not all that bad.

 

[Getemkustom]

I'm going to wait till black Friday and see if SBT or Watercraft superstore has any great sales.

Any word on this? I hope they do as I need a seat cover for a GTX badly!

 

[Minnetonka4me]

That's sucks, I have already been convince by others to pull the crank block apart, the only thing no one has answered was whether I could kept the pistons attach to the crank since there fine then just clean and inspect the crank from just removing the bottom part of the crank case.

You cant....the pistons are too big to slip thru the top of the cases.