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My FIRST 97 SEADOO GSX PROJECT.
- Thread starter sselzer
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68ragtop
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't be too quick to spend the money on the pin puller just for one rebuild. It's desinged to retain the needle bearings in the rod when you take it apart. The piston pin itself floats & can usually be pushed out with a finger After you pull one clip, however the loose needle bearings will fall as the pin comes out. If you replace the bearings with the caged type, it won't matter. I have also reinstalled loose needle bearings using a dab of sythetic assembly grease to hold them in place while you slip the pin back in. Its really not a big deal.
While I have not pulled a flywheel off of a 787, I know that a inexpensive 3-bolt automotive harmonic ballance puller will pull the flywheel off of the smaller engines. Be sure to get the PTO flywheel off first . I found that out the hard way......
While I have not pulled a flywheel off of a 787, I know that a inexpensive 3-bolt automotive harmonic ballance puller will pull the flywheel off of the smaller engines. Be sure to get the PTO flywheel off first . I found that out the hard way......
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Not to mention if you get OEM wristpin bearings they come in a cool plastic insertion tool. So for what you'll spend on the puller you can buy new bearings. I use a 14mm or 9/16" Craftsman socket to remove the pins. Just stuff the cases with paper towels and duct tape over that so none of the pins fall into the cases or slit a piece of cardboard to tightly slide around the connecting rods then tape around them. Personally I prefer the OEM bearings, more needles around the pin so they should handle more abuse. Although in old dirt bikes and trikes I have used the caged type with no issues either. I also like that the pin diameter measures .787, coincidence? I think not.
What's a caged type bearing and why do I have to pull the PTO off, as I wasn't planning do to since I was only cleaning engine in case any rotary disc shavings got in there?
68ragtop
Well-Known Member
you would only need to pull the flywheel if you are going to change the crank seal & check the runout. I would think the crank seals might be a good adiea when you are that deep into it.
68ragtop
Well-Known Member
I hope I didn't make a hugh mistake. I used a grider to clean up the areas where the gaskets go on the up end of the motor, being really carefully too. The surface isn't smooth any more. Should it be ok since I'll be using gaskets and sealer? Praying !!
Pictures.
Pictures.
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Caged bearings arent all they are cracked up to be...you dont have as much bearing surface area as the loose needles. Also the cages can crumble then it goes boom.
Not to scare you off though...LOL I still use them...Im just telling you what I've read.
Not to scare you off though...LOL I still use them...Im just telling you what I've read.
I just did the surface, but I nicked the cylinder sleeves.
Now I understand why a great tuner told me he preferred the needle style to the caged bearings.
The module is a rev limiter. It is made by Micro Touch (Gary Fries) a very smart and friendly man in Ca that's been in the PWC scene from the get go. He has PDF files that you can download for instructions on your particular module. Some also give you the option of changing your timing as well as the rev limit depending on where you put those "jumpers".
The pipe looks to be the same rec version of the Coffman pipe that I have. Did you note the size of the jets when you had the carbs apart? I don't know the correct jetting for that pipe but I am sure that they should be larger than stock.
The module is a rev limiter. It is made by Micro Touch (Gary Fries) a very smart and friendly man in Ca that's been in the PWC scene from the get go. He has PDF files that you can download for instructions on your particular module. Some also give you the option of changing your timing as well as the rev limit depending on where you put those "jumpers".
The pipe looks to be the same rec version of the Coffman pipe that I have. Did you note the size of the jets when you had the carbs apart? I don't know the correct jetting for that pipe but I am sure that they should be larger than stock.
I'm just doing the basic rebuild for the carbs, so every thing else will remain the same. I only thing I'm worried about was if I have to resurface the heads, because I use a grinder on them to remove the sealent and gaskets, I ended up putting a small groove in the sleeves and the surface of the heads aren't smooth now, but maybe the gaskets and sealent will fix that.
anthonygrato
New Member
Sselzer
Depending on how much you grooved them. You could have caused a problem. They are made to be a certain height. So the piston doesn't hit the head. l would try to smooth them the best I could with out taking off too much. They do have to be flat also.
Depending on how much you grooved them. You could have caused a problem. They are made to be a certain height. So the piston doesn't hit the head. l would try to smooth them the best I could with out taking off too much. They do have to be flat also.
I only grooved the side of them next to where the base of the head connects to the crank case.
That's the jug and the lower pressure side. You may be alright with a little sealant on the gasket if you didn't take enough material off to change the overall height.
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