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Manifold cooling water mixing with oil on 4TEC

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curtispittman

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My 4tec blew the dipstick tube out today and is filling with manifold cooling water from garden hose. How is it getting in there?
 
When you flush your engine, run the engine first then the water. Shut off the water then the engine. The engine needs to be running to push out the water. If the engine is off the water can get into the cylinder through an open exhaust valve. Disconnect the hose, if attached.
Don't run the engine. Take out the spark plugs, then turn over engine with the throttle pressed all the way. Spray preservative into the cylinder. Change the oil and filter.
 
Thanks a bunch. i'm piecing this puzzle together slowly. Turns out that the motor went into limp mode last fall. My daughter took it to a boat place where they said it was a bad computer. They replaced the computer and winterized it without placing it in the water for test run. after de-winterizing this spring, they ran it on the trailer with a garden hose for several minutes to verify it was firing on all cylinders. It finally went into safe mode and blew the dipstick tube out and the crank overflowed with water and oil. I'm thinking they flooded the crankcase with the test hose prior to starting the engine. Also, if they continued to run it in safe mode, I would assume all cylinders were not firing allowing even more water to enter thru exhaust valves. hope this helps with my explaination.
 
on the 2 4tec's I have the exhaust is really the only way for lake water to get into the engine & even then it would have to flood the combustion chamber & I don't think your engine could run at the time of this condition. The exhaust manifolds are jacketed & sealed from the exhaust side & the only time they mix is as the exhaust is expelled into the muffler. so even if the hose was on for a short time without the engine running, it shouldn't back up into the engine until the exhaust muffler is full. Never a good idea to have water on without the engine, but if it happened, it really won't get back into the engine instantly.

Are you sure there is water in the block? Has it been running & has the oil turned milky? This type of contamination can destroy an engine quickly if its true. I am worried for you at the moment......
 
The closed loop system(radiator and coolant) are full and clean. The water in the sump is rural water(lake or garden hose). After having the computer replaced, the mechanic turned on the water before he ever started the engine as my daughter was watching. She even asked him about it and he said it did not matter. He also shut down the motor before turning off the water. He was on city water pressure which is about 7 gallons per minute. If he had any elapsed time at all between starting water and engine, a lot of water went into the exhaust. There was no water in the oil when it was taken to him to change the computer as I had recently changed it and the filter. I'm confident he flooded the sump with flush water by not following proper procedure. Thanks for all of the input!
 
That would really take a lot of water in my opinion on a 4tec. I have had the exhaust system apart on mine & after the water is routed through the exhaust manifold jacket, it goes over to a point where its sprayed into the exhaust system through fairly small orifices, but for the water to go into the engine it would still have to do a 180 & somewhat defy gravity for a moment.

I would agree that nobody should ever run the water without the engine, as that can open up a can of worms, & it will fill the exhaust system in not a really long time, But on the flip side I don't see that water going directly into the engine either. It just shouldn't happen that quick by design.

I'll see if I can post some pictures of the internals later tonight.

you might want to check the exhaust manifold for internal cracks. fairly easy to pressure test it by just removing a few hoses.
 
Other than a cracked manifold or gasket, how could cooling water get into the sump? I still think it is thru an exhaust valve but could be wrong. Gonna drain and fill with new oil and put on garden hose myself following correct procedures.
 
Oh.. The inner cooler.. If it leaks, it goes right into the cylinder. You can test this per manual. If you have a supercharger.
 
I was looking at the 2003 exhaust diagram, & while the exhaust manifold is the same as the one I just had apart, the mid pipe after the manifold is different so I guess I should comment on its ability to keep water out of the engine when functioning properly.

If it was me I would be pressure testing the exhaust manifold & the IC like AiircraftDoc mentioned before risking any water again & thats assuming you have it all sucked out. Might take a lot of oil swaps to clean it out, & I sure wouldn't leave it sit. I would be up all night until it was clean oil again.
 
Update..I changed oil and filter. .Ran on hose and not seeing any water in crankcase. However..seems to me that there is more pressure in the crankcase than I am familiar with on other engined. When I pull the dipstick while running, there is an obvious release of air/pressure. But..the stick seals pretty tight with an o ring..is this normal? Also was told of some sort of check valve that might be stopped up that acts like crankcase ventilation similar to a pcv valve on a auto engine. Any suggestions appreciated.
 
curtispittman said:
Update..I changed oil and filter. .Ran on hose and not seeing any water in crankcase. However..seems to me that there is more pressure in the crankcase than I am familiar with on other engined. When I pull the dipstick while running, there is an obvious release of air/pressure. But..the stick seals pretty tight with an o ring..is this normal? Also was told of some sort of check valve that might be stopped up that acts like crankcase ventilation similar to a pcv valve on a auto engine. Any suggestions appreciated.
Click to expand...

Double check the oil level. Even a 1/4 inch too high on the stick can cause a running issue. Thus,, I would think it would cause crank case pressure as well..
 
If you still feel that there is excessive crank case pressure after verifying correct oil level check out this thread:
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?70280-Pressure-Behind-Oil-Cap-Oil-Leak

The valve similar to a PCV valve for these seadoo engines is called the TOPS (tip over protection system) valve which is designed to close if the engine tips over too far. Prevents oil from spilling out and water from getting in. If you have excessive pressure there is a sensor that should trip a check engine light and warning beep after about 5 minutes of running.

What type of craft do you have?
 
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