Looking to purchase a Challenger 1800

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KK40384

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I've been looking around for a 1800 to purchase and many are the newer Merc powered boats. I know nothing about them in comparison to the older Rotax powered ones. What do I need to look out for mechanically on these Mercs? How is maintenance compared to the Rotax? Also how does the jet pump differ in quality and easy of maintenance? I heard it's very costly to repair. Thanks in advance.
 
Although they are a standard Mercury power head, it can be difficult to find a dealer to work on them. The main issue that I know of with the Merc has to do with oil injection. The gear to the oil pump, which runs off the crank, has been known to fail. When that happens the engine is usually toast.
 
If you are looking at a Merc Seadoo... you either have to do all the work yourself... or find a good Mercury dealer that will work on the sportjets, since most seadoo dealers won't touch them.


Yes... they can be VERY expensive to fix... but so can a modern 4 stroke. Or for that mater... an earlier 1800 with 2 engines. (they normally die together)


If you are looking at a Merc... you either want one that the engine has already been replaced... or find one cheap. The Merc engines are lasting 10~12 years... so a lot of them are getting tired. A replacement power head will cost you +$3500 (for a rebuild) or you can do the labor yourself... and it will be $2k or less.


The jet pump is kind of the same. It's expensive... but it potentially can live as long as the life of the boat, if cared for. The wear ring is a solid part... and is about $400. So... do run it though sand. The maintenance is easy for fresh water. Drain and replace the oil in the main gear case, and stator... and that's about it. If you are in salt... then you want to strip it down some... and put anti-corrosion paste on all the bolts, and moving parts. (that should be done every few years in fresh water)


I use to be anti-Merc... but I love my Islandia, and I couldn't see paying for a twin engine 4-tec rotax.
 
The more I read about these the less I want one. I've called around and nobody within 50 miles of me wants to even touch one if it requires anything more than basic winterization. I may wait and save up a bit more and look at the newer 180s as I have way more knowledge about a 4tec and what's involved with that. Cost will always be higher if things go bad but that's a risk you're willing to take when buying a used boat.
 
The more I read about these the less I want one. I've called around and nobody within 50 miles of me wants to even touch one if it requires anything more than basic winterization. I may wait and save up a bit more and look at the newer 180s as I have way more knowledge about a 4tec and what's involved with that. Cost will always be higher if things go bad but that's a risk you're willing to take when buying a used boat.


At least you have a plan, and direction.


BUT... the 4-tec engines are living shorter lives than the Merc's... and can be just as expensive. SO... unless you are looing at low hours... or a newer boat (+2009) Be aware that a 4-tec can drop a valve, and eat itself... or... the supercharger may be due for a rebuild. ($1000 if a shop does it)


That's basically why I don't own a 4-stroke ski yet. The used market is still expensive, and the lives are short. (I can't see making a payment in a state that is cold for 6 mo) BUT... I am thinking about a Spark.
 
You're right about the 4 tecs. I'd buy 08+ if I went that route. SC rebuilds are no big deal. I can pull it and send is to PWCMuscle for rebuild it have my local dealer do it ($535 out the door). I'm thinking though an older twin Rotax boat is more realistic for my budget. Those motors are fairly simple and easy to work on and my local guy will work on those if there's something I can't handle.
 
The SK is a cool little boat. AND... the 720 engines are bullet proof. Feed them good oil, and they will run a long time.
 
What oil do you recommend? I've been using the BRP XPS. Any cheaper alternatives?
 
Welcome to the dark side, with a twin engine 2-stroke boat you're gonna spend so much money at the gas pump you'll hardly notice the cost of injection oil (just kidding). You've got a fast really fun boat, but fuel economy ain't one of it's strong points. With no RAVE valves a good quality API-TC rated mineral or synthetic blend is what you should be using. I would recommend BRP XPS-2 mineral oil, you can get it for about $35.00 shipped.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRP-XPS-SEA...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item231dc5d52a

Another good oil is Quicksilver synthetic blend, API-TC, from Walmart or a Mercury dealer, it's about the same price.

If you can out what the P.O. used, and it meets specs. , just continue to use what he used.

Lou
 
I'm with Lou with this one. I was a die-hard BRP oil user. I knew it was good... and I could get a great price local. BUT... since obviously changed manufactures... and there is a clear difference in what's in the bottle... I've switched over to the API-TC Quicksilver oils.
 
Actually on the fuel economy. I just towed my son and his buddy around in a tube for almost 3.5 to 4 hours running time between 4 and 5K RPM, and only burnt about 13 or 14 gallons of fuel (I'll know when I fill up), in my book that ain't shabby. Still got about 27 left to burn.

If you go with the BRP oil check you local dealers website, if it's a PSN website they should list the oil at $32.99 a gallon. Every PSN BRP dealer site I checked all had it for $32.99. If I walk into my dealer it's close to $40 or more (XPS-II Full synthetic is $52.99 in store, $42.99 web price), they will honor their web price and actually told me not to order from there since they rarely check it which is good to know.

Here's mine:
http://www.smithmarineusa.com/eshopprod_cat_8791-107850_product_1599174.XPS_Stroke_Mineral_Oil.htm

Look in the lower left corner "Powered by PSN" Just click shopping then enter XPS Mineral and it will bring it up--IF it's a PSN website.
 
I ran it for about 3 hrs on Sunday pretty good and it didn't burn any more fuel than my RXT would if I rode it as hard. Of course it would be moving a little faster but load comparable it would be about the same.
 
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