Long term GTI storage, no driveline

[LikeabossTM]

Temps are supposed to drop near freezing this weekend, and I don't know what prep work has been done on my GTI. I'd like to flush cooling system, fog engine, and then prep with AF.

That said, I've no driveshaft installed (and won't for a few more weeks). Any concerns with running it on the hose for a few minutes without a PTO flywheel/driveshaft installed?

 

[mikidymac]

You have to have the PTO on the engine but you don't need the driveshaft or pump.

 

[LikeabossTM]

You have to have the PTO on the engine but you don't need the driveshaft or pump.

Great to know, thanks. I still have the old stripped PTO, so I'll slap that back on just to prep it.

 

[mikidymac]

If you leave it off there will be a huge hole in the back of the engine. The PTO is what seals the rear crank seal to the atmosphere.

 

[DanSquires]

717 ski, or 787 RFI ski?

 

[LikeabossTM]

717 ski, or 787 RFI ski?

717. I believe the rear seal is captive, but it wouldn't hurt to have a little lube and the PTO in place to maintain that expected running profile at the rear of the case.

 

[DanSquires]

You are correct, the rear seal is not dependent on the PTO like the 787 ski. Now personally, I would want the PTO on, just because. But the pump and driveshaft, no. Be sure to torque the PTO down before starting the engine, otherwise it can back itself right off when you shut down the engine.

 

[LikeabossTM]

You are correct, the rear seal is not dependent on the PTO like the 787 ski. Now personally, I would want the PTO on, just because. But the pump and driveshaft, no. Be sure to torque the PTO down before starting the engine, otherwise it can back itself right off when you shut down the engine.

Oh to be so lucky...

...I don't have the magneto cover off, or a spline tool yet, so I hand tightened the PTO and then gave it a few extra jerks with adjustable plyers. It hasn't loosened with running it (or shutting down, more accurately), and isn't coming back off till I can lock the magneto down, I tried but the engine just turns over.

Anyhow, no biggie, I'll get back to that. The LTS procedures went well, though after spraying in some fluid film and letting it run for a minute after shutting off the fuel it still didn't die on its own. I'll have to check the valve over the winter or test that again in the water in the spring. So there's some stabilized fuel in the carb, I'm sure.

The cooling lines all flushed well with the hose while running, and afterward it took just about bang on 2.8L of coolant before it was 'full', just what the manual specifies. I'm confident that she'll be safe from freezing, and combustion path/chamber corrosion over the winter now.

 

[mikidymac]

What do you mean the cooling system is "full"?

These are an open cooling system so most of it will drain out of the exhaust and low level drains. If you fill it up with the engine off it will fill the exhaust and flood the cylinders and crankcase.

Also don't do anything with the MAG to torque or remove the PTO as you can twist the crank. You need to lock the rear piston with either rope down the sparkplug hole or pull the head and use a block of wood on the piston to stop it from turning then you can remove or install the PTO.

 

[LikeabossTM]

What do you mean the cooling system is "full"?

These are an open cooling system so most of it will drain out of the exhaust and low level drains. If you fill it up with the engine off it will fill the exhaust and flood the cylinders and crankcase.

Also don't do anything with the MAG to torque or remove the PTO as you can twist the crank. You need to lock the rear piston with either rope down the sparkplug hole or pull the head and use a block of wood on the piston to stop it from turning then you can remove or install the PTO.

Full as in full while pinched and per the shop manual procedures. I realize there's a concern WRT filling the cylinders, however, I believe that you're filling the double walls of the pipe, etc, and the coolant doesn't reach the combustion chamber if you stop filling when it begins to leak out the bleed port. Yes, most of the coolant leaks out again after removing the hose pinchers.

I could be wrong (if you can't live dangerously, why live at all), but the manual seems to agree that it's a safe method.

Thanks for the rope tip/trick as well, much appreciated! I'll try that when I take the PTO off. That'll be a good opportunity to check for coolant ingress at the same time. [emoji3]

 

[mikidymac]

You are correct as long as you use the amount specified. The waterjacket in the pipe also dumps water into the inner pipe and if you use too much antifreeze this bleed hole can fill up the inner pipe and overflow into the cylinders, that is really the only concern.