I have a 2002 xp and i just had the carbs rebuilt, carbon tech reeds (old ones were chipped) and a r&d performance filter done. I get it up to my lake finally today it starts right up i get on it takes off like a bat out of hell... then stops at 10-15 mph :ack: and bogs down really bad and basically sounds like garbage! If i keep giving it gas it eventually stalls out. So i had to idle it to the lift.. The idle screw is set fine it idles fine.. The other two screws i just checked tightened in 1-1/2 turns as directed from factory so i turned em back out 1-1/2 and changed the plugs still same issue. I WANT TO RIDE THIS THING THE WEATHER IS GORGEOUS! PLEASE HELP!
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It used to fly! Now i want to cry! :(
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Johnson8537
New Member
If the selector valve was partially bad and reserve worked fine and on did not then replace the valve (or lines).
I would also assume poor carb rebuild
I would also assume poor carb rebuild
Johnson8537
New Member
Another thought....
How old are the reeds?
How old are the reeds?
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
They are new. First post says new carbon reeds.
Reserve doesn't get used much, so if there is a clog in the pick up tube, or valve... switching over to reserve may allow the ski to run.
But, like I was syaing... I think it's just a poor job of cleaning the carbs. I'm a semi-pro... and I've missed things. But unlike most mechanices... I take the ski out for a REAL test run before telling the customer to come get it.
I took it to Seadoo Clinic in Coldwater Michigan and they rebuilt the carbs and said a ring was wore in the pump that they replaced.. This by the way was after i already had it done by someone else who did it wrong.. I got it back and its only going roughly 63 or so mph (used to be around 70).. When i take off the only way i can explain it is like its peeling out and makes like a reving noise then goes its weird.. And i wanted to check the carb settings just because i was curious and the carb with the idle setting was at 1-1/2 and the other carb was at like 3 to 4 i turned it so many times i lost count.. Is this correct? If it matters at all might want to keep in mind i have the carbon tech reeds and r&d filter. Also what RPM should it be at full throttle?
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with installingthe performance filter, you needed to atleast, lower the pop-off in the carbs, which means, replace the n/s spring, witha less "gram" spring. Your wear ring might be an issue, as well, if you lost top speed, also ,rpms should be around 6950 +/- 50-100rpms.
Im not exactly sure what lowering the pop off in the carbs means. Could you send me a link to the spring also? And if the wear ring is located in the pump he said he replaced that. And do the settings of the carbs sound accurate in my last post?
Any help soon would be great while im at the lake!
With all the mix ups, it would make sense to start at the top - compression, fuel flow, oil flow, clean the water/fuel filter, the carb filters, follow the carb mod specs for your flame arrestors.
The wear ring is inside the pump, this is almost always the problem when you describe driving on ice, motor goes like stink but boat moves out slowly - with a flashlight look into the rear cone for damaged impellor blades or gouges missing from the inside of the tube, the insert to the tube is the wear ring, also check the pressure where the hull seal is pushing to the driveshaft, newer ones like yours have a carbon ring that meets the steel movable ring on the driveshaft, this ring can be pressed back when the clip is drawn out and pushed into a newly exposed groove to push harder on the seal ring - this could fix the driving on ice/cavitation.
Let us know how you make out, the HS screw should be only open 1/4 unless directed otherwise in your 3d party air filter instruction.
The wear ring is inside the pump, this is almost always the problem when you describe driving on ice, motor goes like stink but boat moves out slowly - with a flashlight look into the rear cone for damaged impellor blades or gouges missing from the inside of the tube, the insert to the tube is the wear ring, also check the pressure where the hull seal is pushing to the driveshaft, newer ones like yours have a carbon ring that meets the steel movable ring on the driveshaft, this ring can be pressed back when the clip is drawn out and pushed into a newly exposed groove to push harder on the seal ring - this could fix the driving on ice/cavitation.
Let us know how you make out, the HS screw should be only open 1/4 unless directed otherwise in your 3d party air filter instruction.
Oil seems fine i just had to fill it back up today, the fuel filter is clean, and i put the factory filter back on and still had the same problems. It seems like a fuel problem for sure along with the wear ring. When it would bog down i would shake the handle bars a little it would sputter up some more power then back down again.. I had all the fuel lines replaced along with the carbs rebuilt twice!
If the motor sputters there is something wrong there, turning sometimes makes the pump shift around against the good side of the wear ring and then whoosh, but if you have rpms problem stay in the fuel system till you get it right, what color are the plugs - both the same beach sand tan? You should not need to rebuild carbs just set the pop pressure after getting out the steel gas can trash, this is where the transition from medium to high will be affected, have you cleaned the RAVE slides and checked the one in the muffler - these seldom fix themselves and the result of carbon is no rpms past 5500, do you live near CLE or have a motorcycle shop in driving range to work, the carbs are very similar to motorbikes and same tools to test, just different specs, download them and talk to someone at the bike shop about a non bike side job.
It doesnt sputter just gains speed then loses speed. Ill be back at the lake tomorrow i never looked at the rpms when there was speed loss ill check tomorrow. From what I saw they stay at 6950 so hopefully its not a fuel problem and maybe just the wear ring. And yes both spark plugs are the same color. Should i bother with getting the carbs to work with the r&d filter or just keep the stock one installed?
Every time I reach for the switch here you are again, the best news is the oil is drinking, many inexperienced riders ride all the way to the meltdown but if you have motor power it seems like pumping power is what you need, the steering boost uncovers this in words, take a look where the carbon ring is - is the rubber seems really loose? push the steel rearward to the next slot, or look with a flashlight into the pump for large marks in the wear ring, it only takes a few rocks to kill it, another possible thing is the seal to the ride plate did not cure when you had the pump rebuilt and installed, this is almost always supplemented with silicone sealer of some style to insure air tight fit to the hull, this is what makes pump removal such a tug-of-war.
You need to decide which induction system you want and stick with it, each has its own settings to compensate for the air flow/quieting, have you compared the pop off and screw settings for both? The person who sets your carbs can tell you what to expect if you transfer back and forth.
You need to decide which induction system you want and stick with it, each has its own settings to compensate for the air flow/quieting, have you compared the pop off and screw settings for both? The person who sets your carbs can tell you what to expect if you transfer back and forth.
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