Ignition Coil Ohm Reading

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jforest

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I took the ski to the lake today and got it idling in the water. When I increased the throttle, the engine died. After getting home and doing some searching, I came across some people testing their ignition coils for this. So I did. I did the test on the spark plug wires for the secondary winding and it was in range with the manual. The manual said 9K-15K, it was reading somewhere around 12.5K. I did an Ohm test across the primary terminals and got a reading of about 1.1 Ohms. The manual says 0.34-0.62 ohms for this test. I know that mine is out of range but I wanted to get some input before I purchase a new ignition coil.

The ski seems to be burning alot of oil and there seems to be residue on the spark plug after running it. I put a 40:1 premix in the gas tank until the oil injection system primed after a rebuild. Now the oil injection system is primed and I also pumped some of the premix out of the gas tank and put fresh gas in the tank to dilute the premix. I feel like even with this, the engine should still run when I give it throttle.

I have rebuilt the carbs. They have a pop-off pressure of 30 PSI. Any suggestions would be great! I have a feeling I'll need to purchase a new ignition coil but I want to make sure before I purchase it.

Thanks in advance!
 
I think you likely still have a fuel system issue. Are you absolutely certain you were able to throughly clean the tiny passages in the carbs? There are three small holes mikuni calls pilot holes which are also called low speed transition ports by most carb mfgrs and rebuilders, these are critical to the operation.

Usually though, when the carb low speed circuit isn't fueling, the high speed circuit will still operate due to the passages are quite large and trash tends not to block them. This means that the engine will idle fairly well but throttle tip-in results in a lean stall and the engine runs out of fuel falls on it's face and quits. If you are able to get past the part throttle off idle tip-in by nursing it and further opening the throttle to start the high speed circuit flowing, the engine than again receives fuel (at large throttle position) from the high speed circuit, comes to life and takes off.

Another possibility is there could be a lack of fuel due to an air leak somewhere in the fuel lines, in which case a low pressure leak check of the fuel system from the carb fuel pump to the tank pickup should reveal loss of pressure. It's quite common for the fuel/water separator cup o-ring to leak air inward thus the fuel pump is receiving airated fuel or perhaps no fuel.

Doesn't seem to me off hand, it's likely you have an ignition system issue b/c they tend to work well or not at all.

Another possibility perhaps might be the voltage regulator.... If battery voltage rises too high due to an overcharge condition the ignition system begins to malfunction and the motor won't rev out. Temporarily disconnecting the voltage regulator is a good test, to eliminate this possibility.

I'm a little curious as to how you settled on a pop pressure of 30psi, but that seems quite a reasonable pressure to me.
 
I've blasted all the ports in the carbs with carb cleaner and they did not seem blocked up. I can take them off an check it again though.

I'll check to see if there is an air leak because that is quite possible since I replaced all the fuel lines.

I'll also check the voltage while its running, that is something I havent done as well.

Thank you for your help! I'll let you know how it goes.
 
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