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Ignition and Power Problem

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1648aws

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I have a 1997 GTX. I just finished putting brand new raves on it and went out for a long ride Saturday.

Power Issue: I'm pleased with the hole shot as it jumps right out of the water. However I am experiencing an intermitent power, mph, rpm issue. Upon starting the machine and pinning the throttle I get a max of 7,000 RPMs and 54 mph. If I slow the machine down and throttle back up I only get 6,500 RPMs and 48 mph. It will not return to the higher rpm unless I shut it off for a while and even then it doesn't always go back up. Could this be a spark plug problem, rave problem?

Ignition Issue: This is really the biggest concern as the machine will shut off on its own for no apparent reason. This usually happens at full throttle but not all the time. I have checked the key and it seems to fit properly. I also wiggle the key around while I'm running and it does not cause any problems. Whenever it shuts down I am able to remove the key, replace it and start up again. I can be in rough water or silky smooth water and it doesn't seem to matter, it cuts out whenever it wants to.

Any help on both of the above issues would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Keith
 
Check the RAVE valve bellows for any pin holes...is is dribbling oil down the side of the RAVE? Are you ever not getting the 2 beeps? I would start by cleaning the Post on the safety lanyard. It is beeping and saying it isn't connecting to the Mpem, (Multi Purpose Electronic Module) It needs to beep 2 times to let you know it is ready to start. Clean the post and cap with soapy water. Don't use any grease of lubricant on it as it needs a clean connection to make contact. Connect the lanyard to see if it is making a connection. 2 beeps and it's ready to fire up.


I hope this helps. Keep us posted on your progress.

Karl
 
Thanks for responding Karl.

I was always able to get the two beeps.

I'll clean the post and lanyard cap but unfortunately it hasn't shut off on me before in the driveway only on the water so I won't be sure the cleaning worked until I'm back on the water. My concern is 4 of us are going on a three day trip this coming Friday through the Trent Severn Waterway in Ontario which has many locks to go through and not knowing if the "shutting off" issue is fixed will cause concern.

I'll go check the raves and get back to you.

Keith
 
It could also be a carb issue. It sounds like you need to remove the carburetors and clean them. If you're careful and don't tear or damage the diaphragms you won't need to buy a rebuild kit. Pay attention to the internal filters too. If you have gray fuel lines you need to replace them with black fuel lines available from auto parts stores like Auto Zone. Measure the length you need and bring a sample with you so you get the correct size. Replace one at a time so you don’t get them mixed up. If you need clamps replace them too. Use small stainless steel clamps also from the auto parts store.

If the carbs haven't been cleaned in a while it could have a restriction of fuel causing the problem or combination of problems.

Karl
 
Question Karl. How does a carb issue cause the machine to shut off as if you hit the kill switch? Is there something internal that reads not enough fuel and shuts it off electronically. There are no signs of stalling, boggind down or starving for fuel shut a complete and quick shut off.
 
Interesting!! Although no oil was present both bellows had started to come off the plastic cap that screws onto the guilotine. (Which I believe is called the exhaust piston)
 
If the carbs haven't been cleaned, chances it could have something to do with it. It's not easy diagnosing a problem when I can't hear or experience the problem. The result of the problem is what I'm relying on, second hand. The RAVE valve wouldn't on it's own, cause it to react like that ...but in a combination it could.
 
Hey Karl.

I appreciate every piece of info you can offer, thank you. I'm just in a limited time bind of trying to make sure my machines are running as best as possible for my upcoming trip. You can inmagine I don't want to cause any trip or on trip delays and wreck anybody's outing. (Especially my wife as it's her machine, mine is running fine). That's why I'm asking about what appears to be an electronic issue caused by carbs. I have about enough time to do one or the other. Clean carbs complete with changing grey hoses or try and diagnose an electronic issue.
 
There is no electrical item that would indicate the carbs are low on fuel... I'm not saying you don't have a bad coil ignition ground which could do that too. I know for a fact that all gray lines in every seadoo have failed...Your seadoo isn't new... Like I said it could be a combiniation of things. I could give you things to check that might be failing...but I perfer to hit it on the nose first time. If the lanyard never gave you problems with beeps it's not the problem.

I re-read your first post...it tells me Gray Fuel lines carb clean, is the problem.
 
Be sure the nut on top of the exhaust piston, of the RAVE is tight. They can't be the problem either as they are just rebuilt...
 
Ok, replace fuel lines and clean carbs it is!

In case I have time, any info on where I would find a potential bad coil ground and what I would be looking for to indicate a problem?

Thanks.

Keith
 
Keith, this is a long shot, I have see it 4 times... in like 5,000 posts. The coil wires in the MPEM box have 2 wires going together...they go to a 3rd black wire that leads to a ground. Be sure its getting a good connection and isn't corroded.
Keep me posted.

Karl
 
Ok Karl, my shop manual is out and I'll get started. Could be 5 min, 5 hours or 5 days before I post progress. Actually it better not be five days as I'm supposed to be on my Seadoo trip by then.

Thanks again for everything.

I'll get back.

Keith
 
Hi Karl:

Might be a silly question but is the MPEM box by the battery or is it the white box under the storage bin at the front of the machine?
 
Thanks Karl.

Another question please. You said that if I'm careful taking apart the carbs and not tear the diaphram I should be ok not having a carb kit. Before I start are there any gaskets that will be required after the carb is removed? I ask as I am not in an immediate area to get parts.
 
If your careful and take your time you should be ok, and not need any thing...unless you tear something or a gasket rips. I do a lot of these and only once in a while need to order parts. If you do, you can order from our "Parts" link at the top of the page.

Karl
 
I picked up fuel line and clamps. However I've completely run out of time to do any carb work before I go on the Seadoo trip this Friday. One small mistake like tearing a diapragm and I'm wanked.

I did however check both the white box under the front hood and the black one next to the battery. No corrosion at all and all ground connections were tight. I even checked all fuses and made sure all other connections were together and tight, nothing loose.

That being said, I don't doubt for a second that I need to clean the carbs and change the grey fuel lines, however the cutting out problem I'm having I'd bet money it's electrical of some sort. The machine shuts off as if you hit the kill switch or pulled the lanyard. No bogging or sputtering as if the carbs are starving for fuel.

Any other thoughts Karl on what it could be? Not that I would have time right now to fix it but you never know.

Thanks for any help.

I won't pick up the post until late tonight.

Keith
 
The carbs rely in a very small amount of fuel passing through them. There is no float bowl, to hold any fuel. If you pinch off a fuel line it just stops...like a switch. I'm not there, and looking at the seadoo but from my years of experience and the mount of gray fuel line problems on this forum...it's a good bet thats the problem.

Karl
 
Hey Karl, as a long shot and strickly a temporary measure, can you reverse the flow of fuel through the carbs to dislodge some of the matter that may be in the carb filters? Perhaps a little air backwards? Creating suction somehow backwards?

Keith
 
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