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Idling at 3200 rpm

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kilabez0

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Rebuilt carbs and all new fuel lines 2000 gtx 951. Used zip ties on some of the fuel lines that and noticed the return line leaking. Put a screw clamp on and that fixed the leak but it's still idling at 3200 rpm while connected to the hose as it's out of the water. I pulled the carbs back off to have a look and put all screw clamps on. I had a hard time getting the throttle cable back on and I'm wondering if I stretched it out or something. I revved it up and it actually got stuck and was staying at 4600 rpm so I shut it off. And the hole with the paint chipped off is the correct hole for the cable correct? I did notice it looked like the butterflies were closing and the adjustable throttle stops on the outside of the carb were touching the butterfly rod so I think they were closing properly. I just want to be done working on this thing lol. Just bought it and wanted to go through everything as I don't know it's history
 

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If the return line zip tie wasn't tight enough I wonder if the harder pulse line wasn't tight enough causing an air leak?

After some forum searching I'm thinking out of water this idle rpm might be acceptable?
 
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Yeah out of water rpm should be close to 3000 and 1500 in water. RPM's hanging at 4,600 is an issue though. If you have an air leak it will run lean and cause a runaway. If this happens hold choke and pull lanyard.
 
On the trailer you are inly 200rpm high, I would back it in the water and check it. If your cable is in the right spot and you still are high your carb gaskets could be leaking or around the reed cages causing lean condition and high idle. :cheers:
 
I'm worried about fixing this on the trailer as I have to run the motor without the ski being in the water. What's the max time to safely run it without any water and while on the hose? Is spraying carb cleaner around everything and listening for increased rpm is a good way to check for air leaks on these? That's what I do with snowmobiles.
 
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About a minute is all you should run out of the water.

Also carbed 951's are known to have high idle and runaways out of the water with nothing wrong with them. Just the nature of the 951 beast.
 
Not necessarily, you cant officially set the idle unless you put it in the water and tweek it. And what mikidymac is saying what you had happen could be normal on the 951. Just back the trailer in and leave the ski on it and make your final adjustments :cheers:
 
Why don't you just turn down the idle speed screw?


About a minute is all you should run out of the water.

Also carbed 951's are known to have high idle and runaways out of the water with nothing wrong with them. Just the nature of the 951 beast.

In 22 years, this has not been my experience.

Chester
 
Well I have had this happen on a two 951 machines.

With the LS screws set a little lean and idle turned up to compensate, that lead to full lean runaway the way your describing and hanging idle was the precursor.

Set the low speed to stock and set the idle for 3000 rpm. Touch the throttle and it should rev up and drop down reasonably quickly. If it hang's, shut down and turn "The LS screw" another 1/4 turn out. Start and adjust idle again.
Once it idles, responds and drops quickly without hanging you can set the idle for 3000 out of the water and get the oil pump synched to the carbs.
Then in the water you fine tune the idle for 1500 and then set the LS for a smooth idle and then adjust the idle again. Then re-sync the oil pump to how its now set.

Spraying carb cleaner can sometimes lead to the culprit, but in this case I think its settings.
I wouldn't let it run for any longer than it takes to feel the cylinder's outer casing getting warm.
Also consider the carbon seal. It is not getting any cooling or lubrication.
 
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Why don't you just turn down the idle speed screw?




In 22 years, this has not been my experience.

Chester

Very common on the carbed 951's. Mine has not done it but i tend to have the idle a little low. I think it is because they are jetted so lean from the factory for emissions.
 
Well I have had this happen on a two 951 machines.

With the LS screws set a little lean and idle turned up to compensate, that lead to full lean runaway the way your describing and hanging idle was the precursor.

Set the low speed to stock and set the idle for 3000 rpm. Touch the throttle and it should rev up and drop down reasonably quickly. If it hang's, shut down and turn another 1/4 turn out. Start and adjust idle again.
Once it idles, responds and drops quickly without hanging you can set the idle for 3000 out of the water and get the oil pump synched to the carbs.
Then in the water you fine tune the idle for 1500 and then set the LS for a smooth idle and then adjust the idle again. Then re-sync the oil pump to how its now set.

Spraying carb cleaner can sometimes lead to the culprit, but in this case I think its settings.
I wouldn't let it run for any longer than it takes to feel the cylinder's outer casing getting warm.
Also consider the carbon seal. It is not getting any cooling or lubrication.

turn the low speed adjusters out if it hangs?
 
As Chester said, the first thing you need to do is at idle start backing out the idle stop screw and make sure the idle does come down.
If not then you need to find out what is holding the carb open like an out of adjustment throttle cable. Until you are sure the carb is closing all the way you do not have a good starting point.
 
turn the low speed adjusters out if it hangs?

Yeah, sorry I meant to put LS screw in there.



If it is too lean at idle it will run away. By opening the low speed another 1/4 turn that should enrich the mixture just enough to make it stable and predictable.
It behaves like its running out of fuel when it starts to runaway. That's one of the reasons pulling the choke is a way to stop it.

If opening the ls past 1/4 or 1/2 turn doesn't have any effect, look towards and air leak rather than settings.

The last one I worked on was a 99 GSXL that needed carbs rebuild. On first start the idle was close to 2500 and as soon as the carb's filled up completely, I gave it a bit of throttle and it came up to 5000 and wouldn't drop. Then started increasing out of control. I managed to choke and pull the key at the same time to shut it down.
Turned the idle down and started again, same result. So i turned the low speeds out 1 full turn and it worked much better but barely idled.
I started back towards the original low speed setting and around 3/4 turn's back in or a little more it started hanging again but didn't runaway. That was pretty close so I turned it back out a bit and it ran good without any weir issues. Then I set the idle for 3000 and synched the oil pump.
The rest of the tuning was done in the water and then I checked for hanging idle again after it was out of the water again. Not sure where the LS were set in the end but it ran good and didn't hang or runaway.



Aside from running lean from settings or an air leak, the other possibility is that the butterfly valves are being held open by something if not the idle screw like the guys are saying.
 
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runaway is fairly common on the 951, especially if the idle is set too high with no slack in the throttle cable or you rev the throttle. just pull the choke to kill it if it runs away as pulling the key/stop switch won't kill it.

just set the idle screws to factory specs and turn the idle down to where it idles at 3k out of water. if yours originally idled at 3200, you don't have an airleak and you were really close to having the correct idle setting.

not a fan of zip ties on fuel or oil lines. I know lots of people do it but there are such garbage zip ties out there(cheap PP plastic instead of Nylon 66) that it's not worth the risk to me to save a couple bucks.
 
not a fan of zip ties on fuel or oil lines. I know lots of people do it but there are such garbage zip ties out there(cheap PP plastic instead of Nylon 66) that it's not worth the risk to me to save a couple bucks.

Just make sure you use high quality zip ties and there is no issue. All the Yamaha's and Kawasaki skis came with them from the factory.
 
Technically you'll also want to set idle on a warm engine, in the water. go for a ride for a bit, then set the idle, or 90% of the time 3k on land works out fine.
 
I don't understand all this idle talk, don't these skis only have two settings? WFO and OFF.
 
Your throttle cable may of been reconnected 180 degrees from where it was. With the angle it has always run for it's life. You reinstall it 180 degrees from it's normal position. Try taking it loose and look at the angle of the cable. You may of installed it with some 2 hairs in throttle advance.
 
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