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Hydro locked xp????

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Brprxt215

Brprxt215

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So I bought a 96xp the other day for $400. I planned on making a project out of it. It had no battery so I had no idea what it needed. Threw a brand new battery in it pulled the plugs(kind of oily so cleaned them up and set gap to .22) and checked comoression. 150psi in both holes! Got excited and wanted to try and fire it up. I drained as much fuel out of the tank as I could and put some fresh premix in I had(not sure if it still has injector hooked up or blocked off) it has a primer so I was trying to prime but seemed to be an air leak somewhere in the primer line and would not pull anything. I cut the line towards the carbs and sprayed a tad bit of ether down it. Fired for a second. Cranked it again and it would only click. Got about three more clicks like the starter is stopping on the flywheel and not engaging fully. After a couple of clicks it finally cranked a little slow and then sped up and started fully. Ran it for like 20 seconds so I know it runs. I wasn’t sure if it was hydro locking so I pulled the plugs and cranked it over and it cranked properly without the clicking issue so I don’t think it’s the starter. No oil came out of the plug holes though so I’m not sure it’s hydro locked either. The red positive wire going to the relay box by the battery gets hot when cranking and clicking with the plugs in but the red positive wire going to starter does not get any temperature change. Can anyone give me some ideas on where to go with this? I already ordered a new relay/solenoid to try. If that doesn’t solve it what would be next?
 
Sounds like the starter needs a rebuild kit. You can get them on amazon or ebay for like $30. Don't put an aftermarket starter in, they are junk. Once the brushes are worn enough the starters will just clunk but will crank ok with the plugs out because there isn't compression the starter has to fight against.
 
I agree as what is stated above, check the cables, can do a voltage drop across the cables as well resistance checks.
On another note, make sure theres at least oil in the oil tank to make sure you dont burn up the rotary valve even for just test runs on the trailer.
 
tingraham said:
Sounds like the starter needs a rebuild kit. You can get them on amazon or ebay for like $30. Don't put an aftermarket starter in, they are junk. Once the brushes are worn enough the starters will just clunk but will crank ok with the plugs out because there isn't compression the starter has to fight against.
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Here is a video of the clunking. And one of it running. It’s like when I hit the start button quick it just clunks. If I hold start button it clunks then cranks hard and fast enough to fire. I tried a new solenoid to fix the clunk at the start of turning over but didn’t. I rechecked my spark yesterday I’m getting spark with plugs out but under compression get no spark. Tried grounding coil to the block no difference. Tried trimming plug wires and two sets of new plugs no difference. I have not load tested battery during cranking. I just don’t understand how it started twice the first day and I can’t get it to start at all now
 
I was starting to lean towards starter after doing some more research. Thank you! I will pull the starter and have it rebuilt. It looks new which I know looks can be deceiving but the clunking is obviously drawing to much to allow spark
 
Is it black? If it doesn’t say ND for Nipon Denso it is a junk aftermarket and should go directly into the trash.
 
mikidymac said:
Is it black? If it doesn’t say ND for Nipon Denso it is a junk aftermarket and should go directly into the trash.
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It is Black I’m not sure if it’s afternarket or ND. When I take it off if it’s not oem I will buy oem. If it is ND i will see if I can just have the local starter place rebuild it.
 
I have seen OEM black starters (maybe replacements come black now?). So make sure you check to make sure if it's OEM or not. Chances are that it's not OEM and it's trash. Buy a used OEM one off ebay and slap some new brushes in it before install to save yourself a headache later. The brushes are very easy to replace, don't waste your time giving it to a starter shop.
 
Thank you for that. I did see it has a SAE number on it. Not sure if oem would have SAE on it or not. I’m going to pull it off this week. I am going to check the positive and negative connections and see how they look. If they look bad I’ll try and clean them and try it. If it doesn’t work and it is an oem starter I will take it to the shop. I know the guys it will cost $50 for them to rebuild it nicely. Then hopefully I can ride it and see if carbs need to be rebuilt or not. I also have to redo fuel and oil lines as they are all stock. Slowly but surely it will come together!!!!
 
Only rebuild it if it is OEM. THe aftermarket ones are junk inside. The OEM will have ND stamped on the face of the bendix.
 
Black is aftermarket. It's only about 130 for a new oem starter I would just buy the new oem starter that way you know it'll last you your lifetime.
 
mikidymac said:
Where are you seeing these $130 oem starters? Cheapest I have seen is $187.
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I believe my denso for my 580 was 130, I'm not sure if the 580 starters are cheaper but I thought they are all around the same price. I'll have to double check my receipt on what I paid.

Edit, it was an OEM denso starter for 130, I'm assuming it's cheaper for the little 580 engine.
 
If you buy them new they are black just like the crap aftermarket ones but used OEM will be white or silver depending what year engine they came off of.
 
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