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How to use a digital Tach for carb tuning?

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Tpeter30

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Hello, I have a 2000 Seadoo GS. I rebuild the carb and got rid of all the grey fuel lines. I bought a PET2000 Tach and am going to the lake to tune the carbs. I have both LS and HS turned out two turn to be safe. My question is what am I looking for on the tach. I will lean and so I should get a raise in rpm, right? Then do I richen or leave at the peak rpm?

Thanks for all your replies
 
That is wayyyy too rich I believe. Look up the correct specs on the turns. Usually the HS is fully closed and the LS is around 1-1/4 to 1-1/2
 
2 turns on the needles will make it hard to start. A sea doo will run PERFECT on the spec settings.

After putting it in the water, set the idle to 1500 rpm.
 
You can tweak a little, but start with stock settings. Then turn the low speed in a 1/4 turn at a time and make a run. The peak RPMs will rise as you are in "the zone" but when you start getting lean the RPMs will decrease from your last test. Just open a 1/8th and recheck till you hit that peak RPM again.
 
Thanks for all your replies. Yes the machine is stock except for when I rebuild the carb I used 1.5 needle insead of 2.0 to get the correct pop off pressure. Will this affect my mixture settings?
 
Thanks for all your replies. Yes the machine is stock except for when I rebuild the carb I used 1.5 needle insead of 2.0 to get the correct pop off pressure. Will this affect my mixture settings?

HELL YES!!!

If you put in a smaller N/S and are using the spec for the 2.0... you will starve the engine.

So... take the carbs off... put in the OEM N/S of the proper size, and set the pressure with OEM springs.

Once again.... they will run perfect at OEM spec. If you are putting in new OEM parts, you almost don't even have to check the popoff, since new parts will fall into spec.

If you use aftermarket parts... you will have to verify everything, and you may still have running issues.
 
curiously, what did you end up paying for the PET ? and where did you buy it ?

I've been looking around for a 2500 for my GP but the retail prices were , well, ridiculous, and every time a used one comes up reasonable somebody always snatches it up before I do.
 
Hey Spim I've got a PET. It's new but out of the package(or maybe the guy used it for a sec? but seems new) and you can have it for the $150 I paid if you want. I don't remember the exact # of it but will get pics later. I think it was a 2100? I'll find out.

As far as the tuning....once you confirm top rpm I like to give back a little by opening the high speed needles a little. I like to give back at least 50rpm to feel like I'm not too lean.
 
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Our rev limiters make it impossible to tune the way I learned how way back in the day but I agree, once you hit peak RPM, it's on the edge of too lean and you need to give some back, to remain on the safe side of the ratio. 50RPM is a good compromise, it's just enough to notice.

I think all factory settings or slightly richer by a small amount is good, especially if it feels too lean give it more. I like to hear some occasional four-stroking in the low end, it's tough tuning the top end b/c of the rev limiter and the old method doesn't apply any longer due to these electronic rev limiters but an unloaded motor should four-stroke at WOT, like when the pump comes unhooked(Rev limiter must be disabled of course, four-stroking unloaded WOT was our rev-limiter from back in the day). The first generation of rev limiters actually were mechanical and fitted into the carbs (called mixture governors), we used to disable them so we could properly tune our 2-stroker motors.

Seat orifice of 951: If this is a 951 using the BN-46i, the 1.5 seat won't flow enough fuel and the top end will be too lean, DON'T do this! Use the 2.0 seat along with the proper 95 gram spring. I actually sneeked an 80 gram metering spring in mine and found it's a hair too rich with my larger pilot jet but still works well. Be careful though, being too rich in the low end can be a dangerous combination with an injection system due to there is no oil flowing during low speed idle operation but, I don't idle exceptionally long distances anyway so my crankcase probably can't run out of oil.

Needle valve: 2.0 p/n 78635015-2.0
Arm Spring: 95gr p/n 730-03027-T Silver, reverse wound

Something's probably wrong if the factory settings won't run acceptably, my 951 ran okay but was just too flat for my liking in the low speed nearly up to 70% throttle thus I increased low speed pilot jet size.
 
Hey Spim I've got a PET. It's new but out of the package(or maybe the guy used it for a sec? but seems new) and you can have it for the $150 I paid if you want. I don't remember the exact # of it but will get pics later. I think it was a 2100? I'll find out.

As far as the tuning....once you confirm top rpm I like to give back a little by opening the high speed needles a little. I like to give back at least 50rpm to feel like I'm not too lean.

i'll give you a call tomorrow matt, thanks.
 
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