statikuz
Active Member
Changing Jet Pump Oil
There is an existing howto for this, but it has some unnecessary steps/missing some details, and maybe people don't want to download attachments (or are trying to view on their phone or whatever) so I thought I would write a new one while I was at it with a little better photos. This was on a 2003 RX DI. You're supposed to do this at the end of every year/season.
I remove the jet pump all the way, not necessary but can make it a little easier if you'd like to do this on your workbench.
If this is decent please move to the Howto forum, I couldn't make this post there!
Tools & Supplies
The reverse gate, nozzle, and venturi are all in your way but you can remove them all in one assembly.
With 10mm wrenches, remove the bolt and nut holding the reverse gate connecting rod.
With 10mm wrenches, remove the bolt and nut holding the steering cable to the nozzle.
With 10mm wrenches, remove the bolt and nut holding the VTS trim connecting rod.
With the extension and 13mm socket, remove the four M8 screws holding the venturi to the jet pump.
Pull the venturi and everything else off the pump. It may be stuck on there with a bit of sealant.
Using your 17mm socket and extension, remove the four M10 nuts, lock washers, and flat washers retaining the jet pump to the pump support.
Now you can remove the pump. Keep track of the neoprene seal ring between the pump and the pump support.
With the pump on your workbench, using your 3/16" hex key, remove the plug from the impeller cover/cone.
Pour out the majority of the pump oil into a waste container.
Using your 5mm hex key, remove the three M6 screws retaining the impeller cover to the pump.
Remove the impeller cover. Pour out any remaining oil inside the cover or the pump, and wipe it all clean.
Remove the o-ring from the impeller cover, and remove the anti-rattle assembly (white plastic piece, black plastic piece, and spring) from inside the impeller cover. Clean all of these parts. Clean the threads of the cover retaining screws with a wire brush to remove any old threadlocker.
The anti-rattle slider and spring go in first. The side with the tabs goes on top, and the long tab goes "in" and should line up with the oil fill hole.
Put a dab of synthetic grease on the center hole, and insert the white plastic pusher.
Install the o-ring on the cover, and cover the o-ring with Loctite 518/equivalent. (this might be a little too much, but it sealed, so whatever)
Set the pump on its end and set the impeller cover back onto the pump.
Optionally, clean the threads of the holes for the retaining screws to get out any old threadlocker so your new clean screws will thread in nicely.
Apply Loctite 243 to the three retaining screws and thread them most of the way in, until they start to push the cover onto the pump.
Using a regular pencil or anything, really (the manual says nothing metal but just be careful), insert it through the oil hole and push the anti-rattle slider down. It will push down only slightly, maybe 1/4" or so. Hold it there and tighten the screws (manual shows three different torque values for these screws from 35 in lb to 66 in lb). You should then be able to push that slider up and down slightly.
Pressure Test
If you have the equipment/capability to do this, you should. It will also be useful for pressure/leak testing an engine during a rebuild, or pressure testing a fuel pump. I got all the parts I needed to do all of these pressure tests for around $70.
Apply pipe thread sealant to a 1/8" NPT hose barb and screw it into the oil fill hole until snug. Pressurize the pump to 10 psi and check that it holds pressure for 10 minutes.
Fill
After a successful pressure test, fill the reservoir with oil until it reaches the bottom of the oil fill hole. Again, having the pump on the workbench allows you to move it around a bit to clear any air inside and complete the fill a little faster. Otherwise, fill it as much as you can, let it sit for a few minutes for the air to bleed, then fill it up again.
Apply a bit of thread sealant to the fill plug, install (3 N m or 27 in lb) and you're done! I just screwed it in until flush with the cone surface and that felt tight.
If you want to replace the bailer o-rings on the jet pump, 3/8" ID 1/2" OD 1/16" thickness ones fit just right and are available at hardware store parts bins.
Put a thin coat of Loctite 518 around the mating surface between the jet pump and venturi.
Use blue threadlocker when re-mounting the jet pump and venturi. Venturi to jet pump screws are 21 N m/16 lb ft and jet pump nuts are 31 N m/23 lb ft.
Happy to make any corrections/suggestions.
There is an existing howto for this, but it has some unnecessary steps/missing some details, and maybe people don't want to download attachments (or are trying to view on their phone or whatever) so I thought I would write a new one while I was at it with a little better photos. This was on a 2003 RX DI. You're supposed to do this at the end of every year/season.
I remove the jet pump all the way, not necessary but can make it a little easier if you'd like to do this on your workbench.
If this is decent please move to the Howto forum, I couldn't make this post there!
Tools & Supplies
- two 10mm wrenches
- 13mm socket
- 17mm socket
- ratchet with long extension
- 3/16" hex key
- 5mm hex key
- Loctite 518 or equivalent anaerobic gasket maker
- Loctite 243 or equivalent blue threadlocker
- Loctite 592 or equivalent pipe thread sealant
- any 75W90 GL5 synthetic oil (Sea-Doo Jet Pump Synthetic Oil "recommended")
- a dab of synthetic grease
- 1/8" NPT hose barb and associated equipment for pressure testing
The reverse gate, nozzle, and venturi are all in your way but you can remove them all in one assembly.
With 10mm wrenches, remove the bolt and nut holding the reverse gate connecting rod.
With 10mm wrenches, remove the bolt and nut holding the steering cable to the nozzle.
With 10mm wrenches, remove the bolt and nut holding the VTS trim connecting rod.
With the extension and 13mm socket, remove the four M8 screws holding the venturi to the jet pump.
Pull the venturi and everything else off the pump. It may be stuck on there with a bit of sealant.
Using your 17mm socket and extension, remove the four M10 nuts, lock washers, and flat washers retaining the jet pump to the pump support.
Now you can remove the pump. Keep track of the neoprene seal ring between the pump and the pump support.
With the pump on your workbench, using your 3/16" hex key, remove the plug from the impeller cover/cone.
Pour out the majority of the pump oil into a waste container.
Using your 5mm hex key, remove the three M6 screws retaining the impeller cover to the pump.
Remove the impeller cover. Pour out any remaining oil inside the cover or the pump, and wipe it all clean.
Remove the o-ring from the impeller cover, and remove the anti-rattle assembly (white plastic piece, black plastic piece, and spring) from inside the impeller cover. Clean all of these parts. Clean the threads of the cover retaining screws with a wire brush to remove any old threadlocker.
The anti-rattle slider and spring go in first. The side with the tabs goes on top, and the long tab goes "in" and should line up with the oil fill hole.
Put a dab of synthetic grease on the center hole, and insert the white plastic pusher.
Install the o-ring on the cover, and cover the o-ring with Loctite 518/equivalent. (this might be a little too much, but it sealed, so whatever)
Set the pump on its end and set the impeller cover back onto the pump.
Optionally, clean the threads of the holes for the retaining screws to get out any old threadlocker so your new clean screws will thread in nicely.
Apply Loctite 243 to the three retaining screws and thread them most of the way in, until they start to push the cover onto the pump.
Using a regular pencil or anything, really (the manual says nothing metal but just be careful), insert it through the oil hole and push the anti-rattle slider down. It will push down only slightly, maybe 1/4" or so. Hold it there and tighten the screws (manual shows three different torque values for these screws from 35 in lb to 66 in lb). You should then be able to push that slider up and down slightly.
Pressure Test
If you have the equipment/capability to do this, you should. It will also be useful for pressure/leak testing an engine during a rebuild, or pressure testing a fuel pump. I got all the parts I needed to do all of these pressure tests for around $70.
Apply pipe thread sealant to a 1/8" NPT hose barb and screw it into the oil fill hole until snug. Pressurize the pump to 10 psi and check that it holds pressure for 10 minutes.
Fill
After a successful pressure test, fill the reservoir with oil until it reaches the bottom of the oil fill hole. Again, having the pump on the workbench allows you to move it around a bit to clear any air inside and complete the fill a little faster. Otherwise, fill it as much as you can, let it sit for a few minutes for the air to bleed, then fill it up again.
Apply a bit of thread sealant to the fill plug, install (3 N m or 27 in lb) and you're done! I just screwed it in until flush with the cone surface and that felt tight.
If you want to replace the bailer o-rings on the jet pump, 3/8" ID 1/2" OD 1/16" thickness ones fit just right and are available at hardware store parts bins.
Put a thin coat of Loctite 518 around the mating surface between the jet pump and venturi.
Use blue threadlocker when re-mounting the jet pump and venturi. Venturi to jet pump screws are 21 N m/16 lb ft and jet pump nuts are 31 N m/23 lb ft.
Happy to make any corrections/suggestions.
