hi im new here and not sure if im posting in the right spot but i need some help i have a 2007 sea doo wake 155 i just brought it it starts first time every go but the other day on the water i was riding it for about an hour and it just cut out and wouldnt start it would just click had to be towed home later on that day after having it on charge for a few hours it started so in the mean time iv cleaned the contacts for batt and pulled all fuses and checked and cleaned them but still need to test if its charging can anyone lead me in the right direction and im also chasing a lcd dash as mine has water in it part no 278002216
hi new to the world of jet ski's need help with my sea doo 155 gtx wake 2007
- Thread starter mad-dog
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Fire it up. Use a meter and see what the voltage is at the battery. Should be near 14 volts when you rev it. 13 at idle.
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had a multimeter on it to day and it was reading 12.55 when engine was running give it a rev and it stayed the same and the batt is new only 3 months old iv had it on charge and it is fully charged where is the cdi unit on the ski? and all terminals are clean and no blown fuses
Hi I'm back finally and have had my sea Doo looked at by the shop and I need a new stator now I wanna know how hard is this job to do and do I need specific tools for the job and does the engine need to come out? As I wanna do the job my self as the amount they want is over my price range and where can I get a manual from please help
Did they explain why a stator as compared to a Voltage Regulator?
Substantial price difference and MUCH easier to change.
Substantial price difference and MUCH easier to change.
AircraftDoc
Active Member
Take your battery to your local auto parts store for a stress test. Or you can buy one.
I've had this happen to me. Brand new vented battery. 5hrs of jumping. Month later. After a overnight charge a 2 hr rest, it failed.
If the battery fails, I recommend an AGM sealed battery.
I've had this happen to me. Brand new vented battery. 5hrs of jumping. Month later. After a overnight charge a 2 hr rest, it failed.
If the battery fails, I recommend an AGM sealed battery.
mkov608
Active Member
I'm w/ CoastieJoe; I'd demand specifics on voltage and resistance checks on the stator circuit; it's a Delta would stator. Resistance checks are easy. What is the battery voltage with the engine off? I'll bet you have a regulator problem. Here's a cut and paste from the manual; the check of the stator is at the end. Hope this helps.
CHARGING SYSTEM 0
GENERAL
Magneto
The purpose of the charging system is to keep the
battery at a full state of charge.
The magneto is the primary source of electrical
energy. It transforms magnetic field into electric
current (AC).
4-TEC Engines
The magneto has a 3 phase, delta wound stator
on 18 poles. Capacity is 380 watts.
Rectifier/Regulator
All
The rectifier receives AC current from the magneto
and transforms it into direct current (DC).
The regulator, included in the same unit, limits
voltage at a maximum level (14.5 to 14.8 volts) to
prevent any damage to components.
The unit is using a 3 phase in series rectifier/regulator
which transforms (AC) from the magneto into (DC) to
allow battery charging.
Battery
The battery is the DC source for the electric starter,
the Multi-Purpose Electronic Module and all accessories.
Fuse
If the battery is regularly discharged, check fuse
condition.
The rectifier/regulator could be the culprit of a blown
fuse. To check, simply disconnect the rectifier/
regulator from the circuit.
The charging system is protected by 2 fuses.
If the fuse still burns, check for a defective wire.
CAUTION: Do not use a higher rated fuse as this
could cause severe damage.
4-TEC Engines
The charging system is protected by 1 fuse (30 A)
in starter relay.
TESTING PROCEDURE
NOTE: First, ensure that battery is in good condition
prior to performing the following tests.
Rectifier/Regulator
STATIC TEST: CONTINUITY
Due to internal circuitry, there is no static test available.
DYNAMIC TEST
Current Test
Proceed as follows:
– Start engine.
– Lay an inductive ammeter on positive cable of
battery.
– Bring engine to approximately 6000 RPM.
Current reading should be approximately 5 amperes,
depending on battery state. If not, check magneto
output prior to concluding that rectifier is faulty.
Voltage Test
All Models
Proceed as follows:
– Start engine.
– Connect a multimeter to battery posts. Set multimeter
to Vdc scale.
– Bring engine to approximately 5500 RPM.
If multimeter reads over 15 volts, regulator is defective.
Replace it.
NOTE: If it is continually necessary to add distilled
water to the battery, this indicates an over voltage
situation, requiring replacement of the rectifier/
regulator. If, on the other hand, the battery will not
stay charged, the problem can be any of the charging
circuit components. If these all check good,
you would be accurate in assuming the problem
to be in the rectifier/regulator.
Stator
STATIC TEST: CONTINUITY
1. Disconnect the magneto wiring harness connector.
2. Install the 6-pin magneto harness adapter (P/N
295 000 136).
NOTE: On 4-TEC engines disconnect the stator
wiring harness connector and probe the three connectors.
3. Check resistance between two of the YELLOW
wires. The resistance should be between 0.1 to
1.0 ohm.
1. Multimeter
2. Magneto harness adapter
3. YELLOW wires
4. Place either meter lead into the remaining YELLOW
wire and note the resistance (same as
step no. 3). If the readings are out of specification,
the stator will need to be replaced.
CHARGING SYSTEM 0
GENERAL
Magneto
The purpose of the charging system is to keep the
battery at a full state of charge.
The magneto is the primary source of electrical
energy. It transforms magnetic field into electric
current (AC).
4-TEC Engines
The magneto has a 3 phase, delta wound stator
on 18 poles. Capacity is 380 watts.
Rectifier/Regulator
All
The rectifier receives AC current from the magneto
and transforms it into direct current (DC).
The regulator, included in the same unit, limits
voltage at a maximum level (14.5 to 14.8 volts) to
prevent any damage to components.
The unit is using a 3 phase in series rectifier/regulator
which transforms (AC) from the magneto into (DC) to
allow battery charging.
Battery
The battery is the DC source for the electric starter,
the Multi-Purpose Electronic Module and all accessories.
Fuse
If the battery is regularly discharged, check fuse
condition.
The rectifier/regulator could be the culprit of a blown
fuse. To check, simply disconnect the rectifier/
regulator from the circuit.
The charging system is protected by 2 fuses.
If the fuse still burns, check for a defective wire.
CAUTION: Do not use a higher rated fuse as this
could cause severe damage.
4-TEC Engines
The charging system is protected by 1 fuse (30 A)
in starter relay.
TESTING PROCEDURE
NOTE: First, ensure that battery is in good condition
prior to performing the following tests.
Rectifier/Regulator
STATIC TEST: CONTINUITY
Due to internal circuitry, there is no static test available.
DYNAMIC TEST
Current Test
Proceed as follows:
– Start engine.
– Lay an inductive ammeter on positive cable of
battery.
– Bring engine to approximately 6000 RPM.
Current reading should be approximately 5 amperes,
depending on battery state. If not, check magneto
output prior to concluding that rectifier is faulty.
Voltage Test
All Models
Proceed as follows:
– Start engine.
– Connect a multimeter to battery posts. Set multimeter
to Vdc scale.
– Bring engine to approximately 5500 RPM.
If multimeter reads over 15 volts, regulator is defective.
Replace it.
NOTE: If it is continually necessary to add distilled
water to the battery, this indicates an over voltage
situation, requiring replacement of the rectifier/
regulator. If, on the other hand, the battery will not
stay charged, the problem can be any of the charging
circuit components. If these all check good,
you would be accurate in assuming the problem
to be in the rectifier/regulator.
Stator
STATIC TEST: CONTINUITY
1. Disconnect the magneto wiring harness connector.
2. Install the 6-pin magneto harness adapter (P/N
295 000 136).
NOTE: On 4-TEC engines disconnect the stator
wiring harness connector and probe the three connectors.
3. Check resistance between two of the YELLOW
wires. The resistance should be between 0.1 to
1.0 ohm.
1. Multimeter
2. Magneto harness adapter
3. YELLOW wires
4. Place either meter lead into the remaining YELLOW
wire and note the resistance (same as
step no. 3). If the readings are out of specification,
the stator will need to be replaced.
AircraftDoc
Active Member
Great stuff mkov608. Or you can buy a battery charger that can test the charging system. Smart battery chargers. It can't stress test the battery though.
mkov608
Active Member
Thanks! It sounds as if he's already tested the charging system ... 12.55 volts in his previous post, & his original post indicated he was Good To Go after he recharged the battery. Still, I agree with you that the battery needs to be isolated as a potential culprit, & that's a step in the manual.
Oddly enough, I had the exact same problem with my Toro lawn tractor; I had to constantly charge the battery. I had 12 volts at the battery while the engine was running. The charging system on that Kohler engine it is exactly the same as a 4-tec engine when it comes to the major components & theory of operation ... Delta wound stator, rectifier/regulator, & battery. I checked the stator (continuity and voltage output), and it was good, so I changed out the rectifier/regulator ... ops ck good ... 14 volts and some change!
Mad-Dog, you probably already know this, but if you don't, you can search Google for "full wave rectifier" to learn more about your charging system. Let us know how it goes.
Oddly enough, I had the exact same problem with my Toro lawn tractor; I had to constantly charge the battery. I had 12 volts at the battery while the engine was running. The charging system on that Kohler engine it is exactly the same as a 4-tec engine when it comes to the major components & theory of operation ... Delta wound stator, rectifier/regulator, & battery. I checked the stator (continuity and voltage output), and it was good, so I changed out the rectifier/regulator ... ops ck good ... 14 volts and some change!
Mad-Dog, you probably already know this, but if you don't, you can search Google for "full wave rectifier" to learn more about your charging system. Let us know how it goes.
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ski-d00
Well-Known Member
stators are very reliable on the 4tecs and I wouldn't suspect that first or even second. I've seen shops be confused by bad solenoids, around 2007, the solenoids would fail by just giving a clicking noise making you think they worked fine but they didn't put any voltage through. Normally, if you pressed it enough times, it would finally just work which further confused shops. Step 1 is to verify that your solenoid is working properly. Step 2 is check voltage when off, starting, idling, and revving. Report back with results.
AircraftDoc
Active Member
If you replace the battery, buy a sealed AGM.
A low voltage battery, or battery going bad, will cause harm to the relay and starter. The relay not full engaging will ark the points or over heat. The relay is a magnet that is created with voltage. Low volt low pull down by the magnet against the spring inside.
The same for the starter. The start will get over heated harming the windings.
Let's us know what you find.
A low voltage battery, or battery going bad, will cause harm to the relay and starter. The relay not full engaging will ark the points or over heat. The relay is a magnet that is created with voltage. Low volt low pull down by the magnet against the spring inside.
The same for the starter. The start will get over heated harming the windings.
Let's us know what you find.
hi sorry for the delay and im thankful for your help quick up date the battery has been tested and is fine, now cause i was working 7 days a week had no time to look at it that's why it went to the dealer and silly me for trusting them as im on holidays now i done the job my self and instead of checking to make sure like they insisted it was the stator i brought a new sea doo stator from another shop, done the job and its still not charging!!!!! now with this new stator iv put in when engine is running and checking with ac current the reg/rec unplugged (3 yellow wires) at idle on im getting 19 and rev at around 3000 rpm im getting around 30ac on all 3 pins is that too high? as the place i took it to reckons it is and i have done a resistance test on stator as i get (01.0) on all three and all so insulation test as well checked out fine all checks done by the manual.....
even after changing out to an aftermarket reg/rec still nothing and to rule out the wires (red and dark blue) in harness unplugged from reg/rec going back to block and 30 amp fuse by doing a continuity test all fine as well... now before anyone say check and clean contacts as all have been cleaned and have even put a second set of battery leads on,, SKI-dOO what do you mean by the solenoid? now is there anything else i can check?thanks for reading dan
and i have also done a test on my old stator now 01.0 at all and fine with insulation
and one more thing is there any way i can hook up an aftermarket taco with out going in to to much trouble just to read the rev"s as iv stated my dash has been water logged and waiting for sum $$ before i get a new one
even after changing out to an aftermarket reg/rec still nothing and to rule out the wires (red and dark blue) in harness unplugged from reg/rec going back to block and 30 amp fuse by doing a continuity test all fine as well... now before anyone say check and clean contacts as all have been cleaned and have even put a second set of battery leads on,, SKI-dOO what do you mean by the solenoid? now is there anything else i can check?thanks for reading dan
and i have also done a test on my old stator now 01.0 at all and fine with insulation
and one more thing is there any way i can hook up an aftermarket taco with out going in to to much trouble just to read the rev"s as iv stated my dash has been water logged and waiting for sum $$ before i get a new one
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AircraftDoc
Active Member
If you can't find the problem...
I had this problem. My ski would start once, but would not start again later. I charged the battery overnight and the battery stress tested good. Then the ski would start and run, but later would not.
It was a battery going bad. To test a battery, it has be off the charger 10 hrs. Then test it with a battery load tester. You will find a bad battery will pass after just being charged but will fail after sitting a while. A good battery should be able to hold a charge for months. This took me weeks to figure out.
I had this problem. My ski would start once, but would not start again later. I charged the battery overnight and the battery stress tested good. Then the ski would start and run, but later would not.
It was a battery going bad. To test a battery, it has be off the charger 10 hrs. Then test it with a battery load tester. You will find a bad battery will pass after just being charged but will fail after sitting a while. A good battery should be able to hold a charge for months. This took me weeks to figure out.
ski-d00
Well-Known Member
What is the voltage in DC? not AC. Check it before it starts, during starting, at idle, when revving to 5k rpms, and 30 seconds after you shut it off? These 5 voltage readings will tell you a lot.
Like I said before, stator is very reliable, very rare failure on 4tecs. The voltage regulators is a much more common failure.
The solenoid is a known problem that doesn't allow it to start when pressing the start button. If it always starts when you press the button, that is not your problem but it will be sooner or later if it has the brown solenoid. Sounds like voltage regulator problem to me but need to know the 5 voltage readings in DC.
Like I said before, stator is very reliable, very rare failure on 4tecs. The voltage regulators is a much more common failure.
The solenoid is a known problem that doesn't allow it to start when pressing the start button. If it always starts when you press the button, that is not your problem but it will be sooner or later if it has the brown solenoid. Sounds like voltage regulator problem to me but need to know the 5 voltage readings in DC.
mkov608
Active Member
Stator output is AC
"now with this new stator iv put in when engine is running and checking with ac current the reg/rec unplugged (3 yellow wires) at idle on im getting 19 and rev at around 3000 rpm im getting around 30ac on all 3 pins is that too high?"
No. Your voltage will always be higher when you read it directly from the stator and it will vary with RPM ... more RPM ... more voltage. OBTW, the stator output is AC not DC. You won't have DC power until the full wave rectifier circuit does its thing. The regulator portion of the box will step the voltage down.
I failed to post one of the stator dynamic tests from the manual the last time. Here it is.
DYNAMIC TEST
1. Disconnect the magneto wiring harness connector.
2. Install the 6-pin magneto harness adapter (P/N 295 000 136). Leave wiring harness side disconnected.
NOTE: On 4-TEC engines disconnect the stator wiring harness connector and probe the three connectors.
3. Connect test probes of the multimeter to two of the YELLOW wires of the 6-pin magneto harness adapter.
4. Set multimeter to Vac scale.
5. Start and rev engine to 3500 RPM. The obtained value should be between 45 and 70 Vac on DI engines, and 25 Vac on 4-TEC engines.
6. If the stator is out of specification, replace it.
"now with this new stator iv put in when engine is running and checking with ac current the reg/rec unplugged (3 yellow wires) at idle on im getting 19 and rev at around 3000 rpm im getting around 30ac on all 3 pins is that too high?"
No. Your voltage will always be higher when you read it directly from the stator and it will vary with RPM ... more RPM ... more voltage. OBTW, the stator output is AC not DC. You won't have DC power until the full wave rectifier circuit does its thing. The regulator portion of the box will step the voltage down.
I failed to post one of the stator dynamic tests from the manual the last time. Here it is.
DYNAMIC TEST
1. Disconnect the magneto wiring harness connector.
2. Install the 6-pin magneto harness adapter (P/N 295 000 136). Leave wiring harness side disconnected.
NOTE: On 4-TEC engines disconnect the stator wiring harness connector and probe the three connectors.
3. Connect test probes of the multimeter to two of the YELLOW wires of the 6-pin magneto harness adapter.
4. Set multimeter to Vac scale.
5. Start and rev engine to 3500 RPM. The obtained value should be between 45 and 70 Vac on DI engines, and 25 Vac on 4-TEC engines.
6. If the stator is out of specification, replace it.
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