Help with 1997 XP

[burtshaver2021]

I’m not going to call this thread a project t because I’m not even sure I’m going to keep this, i had myself convinced I was going to go out, wash it up and post it for sale. After washing it up and taking some 1000 grit to a few spots, it was wet and shining and I changed my mind again. I guess I can sell it at anytime, but if I sell it, it’s gone. I’m going to use this thread for help from everyone to fix up what needs fixing. Here’s what I know so far, engine has 148 and 147 pounds of compression, starts right up, PO said it would just suddenly cut out, but would start right back up. I had it running 5 or 6 times on the trailer and never cut out once, then I put it on the hose and it cut out while the hose was on, no damage done, I got to the garden hose valve in about 2 seconds and it started right back up. While it was running on the hose I didn’t notice any water coming from the pisser? When I took the gas cap off of it when I got home, it blew the gas cap up about 2 inches so I’m going to check the fuel vent valve. The engine cover is broken where it attaches to the hinge, the plastic from the engine cover is still attached to the hinge. I will post a picture of that tomorrow. The gas shock PN 269500363 Part 2 on the parte fiche I attached is missing and that along with trying to fix the engine cover ( hood) is my first objective so I can keep the hood up. Can someone advice me if I can use any gas shock for this as I’m not sure if PN 269500363 is available or not, I’m going to call BRP tomorrow but I don’t want to pay 250.00 for a gas shock if I can buy one for 30.00. I was going to measure the travel of the shock and go from there. I don’t really know much about gas shocks, is there anything specific I should be looking for when looking for one? Is a gas shock the same thing as a gas shock absorber lol? I’m guessing it is but not sure. Are there pressure ratings of gas shocks? I’m guessing I just want it to slow the hood when closing and provide some support while it’s open? And my other question is, any ideas how to fix the broken engine cover where the hinge attaches to it? Pics of that tomorrow

 

[mikidymac]

The high pressure gas shock is specified as the closed length, total length and lift pressure. No clue what the specs on the OEM one are. No, they are not like a shock absorber.

Best bet would be to find a clean used one of a 1997-2004 XP.

 

[burtshaver2021]

The high pressure gas shock is specified as the closed length, total length and lift pressure. No clue what the specs on the OEM one are. No, they are not like a shock absorber.

Best bet would be to find a clean used one of a 1997-2004 XP.

Thanks Miki, I see OSD has them for 50.00 some bucks, says out of stock but usually if he can’t get them it says discontinued. I will reach out to Nick and see if he can in fact get one, If not, I will measure and see what length I need. One way or another I will find one, if I just end up matching one up, I’m thinking roughly a 50 pound shock. From what I’ve read, the shock should be rated for the weight of what your lifting

 

[burtshaver2021]

I’m taking the rub rails and foot pads off. I’ve seen to use JB weld 5 minute epoxy to fill the holes from the rivets which is clear. I have some jb weld marine which is also an epoxy but dries white instead of clear. The rivets to put them back on are a 3/16” correct? I have 3/16” x 1” aluminum rivets but it looks like the old ones are 3/16” by 3/4” ? Is there anywhere besides used to buy rubber rails anymore?

 

[lavasioux]

The cutting out is interesting... carbed, correct?

I'd watch the high voltage with a spark bulb and see if you're loosing spark when it cuts out. Hmm... very interesting.

 

[burtshaver2021]

The cutting out is interesting... carbed, correct?

I'd watch the high voltage with a spark bulb and see if you're loosing spark when it cuts out. Hmm... very interesting.

Unfortunately it is just like the DESS key was pulled when it stops so I don’t think I will be able to check for spark when it happens. This is going to sound crazy but the battery connections are not very tight, lol, I haven’t tightened them yet, I think because I’ve already decided I’m in this so I’m just going ahead and getting it cleaned up and sanded before winter. Much easier to wet sand outside than in my shop. I’m hoping the cutting out is just that battery connection or possibly a dirty or failing DESS post. If I get these fuel lines changed and micro filters cleaned before October I will at least take it out and see if it keeps water out. Just don’t want to chance hiring it with the grey lines still on it

 

[hingstin]

Check battery cables at Both ends and Clean them, Ground from battery to engine is not easy to access but will corode easy it is under engine, in engine left rear side aM10 Bolt (spanner17mm).
also open the Electrical box in fronr Right side, there is Ignition coils and starter relay and some other cables ( I had a small cable rubbed against a sharp metalpart inthere)

I have measured the damper a year ago ( Gas shock) but unfortunately I have lost it,
but I remeber my gas strut was about 55 kilograms near 100 Pounds, and that at limit, if jet is a bit raised in front, it cant hold, so atleast 60-65 kg--> 140 pounds.
i can measure what it is at full length tomorrow, but hard to measure the "compressed length"

 

[burtshaver2021]

Check battery cables at Both ends and Clean them, Ground from battery to engine is not easy to access but will corode easy it is under engine, in engine left rear side aM10 Bolt (spanner17mm).
also open the Electrical box in fronr Right side, there is Ignition coils and starter relay and some other cables ( I had a small cable rubbed against a sharp metalpart inthere)

I have measured the damper a year ago ( Gas shock) but unfortunately I have lost it,
but I remeber my gas strut was about 55 kilograms near 100 Pounds, and that at limit, if jet is a bit raised in front, it cant hold, so atleast 60-65 kg--> 140 pounds.
i can measure what it is at full length tomorrow, but hard to measure the "compressed length"

Thank you, That would be great if you wouldn’t mind taking a couple measurements and pictures of the measurements if you don’t mind. No rush though, I don’t need them today. Good info on the weight of the gas shock, I was guessing a 50 pound shock, so It would have been waaaay light.

 

[hingstin]

Hi
I measured the totallengt center of hole in both ends Mine was 442mm, and that absolute Maximum, if you open it more it will bend on hinges or scratch nose of upper cover see pic.
so:
L_out 442 ( absolutely max)
L_in 330 or Shorter (no matter)
Stroke About 110 or more (no matter)
Force approx 600N
But the attachment in bottom of Jet, is pretty simple, so that one is easy to make an own, if needed.I cutted the Piston on Mine and made new threads on it to have the length "optimally" ( usually there are threded ands on shock and a small attachment then threded on )
in this Pic You also can see the "stroke" here it is About 11centimeters then the attachment pin is "flush "with lower deck, and it cant go deeper , ofcourse...

 

[burtshaver2021]

Hi
I measured the totallengt center of hole in both ends Mine was 442mm, and that absolute Maximum, if you open it more it will bend on hinges or scratch nose of upper cover see pic.
so:
L_out 442 ( absolutely max)
L_in 330 or Shorter (no matter)
Stroke About 110 or more (no matter)
Force approx 600N
But the attachment in bottom of Jet, is pretty simple, so that one is easy to make an own, if needed.I cutted the Piston on Mine and made new threads on it to have the length "optimally" ( usually there are threded ands on shock and a small attachment then threded on )
in this Pic You also can see the "stroke" here it is About 11centimeters then the attachment pin is "flush "with lower deck, and it cant go deeper , ofcourse...
View attachment 68234View attachment 68233
View attachment 68232

Thank you

 

[burtshaver2021]

I’m itching now to get this on the water. I don’t care if I get to drive it much this year but I do want to see if it leaks any water into the hull or has any water leaks, damaged Welch plugs, leaking carbon seal etc. I’m going to change the grey fuel lines today but I have a few concerns I wanted to get an opinion on before taking it out for a test. I will post pictures of my concerns. Which are 1. The starboard sponson has one bolt which is visible, the sponson isn’t broke, on the outside anyways and the bolt is still in position, I see some type of grommet around the bolt but it does move in and out a bit. Will this be a major leak point? Enough that I can’t take it out for 10 minutes?
2. The vts arm at the rear close to the bellow is broken, so I have no control or stability for r nozzle, the nozzle can literally go up and down as it pleases. Can I take it out for 19 minutes in this condition or No, should I fix that before taking it out at all?
3. When I had it hooked up to the hose, I didn’t see any water coming from the CSI pisser. I think I’ve read that some machines don’t have a stream when hooked to the hose? Should I investigate this further or take it out for 5 or 10 minutes and see if it pisses while on the water? I did notice that the plug for the overheat sensor on the cylinder cover was detached, so that worries me that they were getting an alarm from over heating and just disconnecting the wires from the sensor.

 

[burtshaver2021]

I forgot the pictures.

 

[burtshaver2021]

The supply line from the fuel filter was 8mm (5/16”) for about 6 inches, then to a fitting and 6mm (1/4”) the rest of the way. I only realized it when I tried to get the 1/4” fuel line onto the filter and couldn’t get it to go on. Is this proper set up for this 97XP? I will have a look at the manual tonight

 

[burtshaver2021]

Looked up some old threads and I’m seeing it’s 5/16 from the tank to the selector, to the seperator, out 6” and then the rest is 1/4”, 5/16” is ordered and will be in tomorrow

 

[burtshaver2021]

Making some progress today. Got the carbs out and the hood off. I think I can repair this hood. Where it bolts to the hood, the pieces it bolts to is completely separated from the hood with the screw still in the pieces leaving about 2 1 1/2” holes were the bracket fastened to the hood. I think if I take some 1/4” steel and position it beneath the plastic on the hood and mark it where the bolts go, then drill in the steel for the bolts, weld a nut to the back of the steel, I can then fasten the hinge to the hood which will basically be a compression fit, 2 of the holes on the hood for the hinge are still good so I believe this will hold it, but after I have the hinge on I will fill around the steel a bit with some 2 part epoxy for extra measure. The hood is not perfect and I have contemplated buying a used Lower hood, I’ve found 3 used ones so far. 1 that is half an hour from me, guy asked 200.00 for it. 1 5 1/2 hours from me for 150.00, not an option. And one 2.5 hours from me, 140.00 for the hood and shock, considering this one but it’s still 5 hours driving round trip, I could have this hood repaired in that time and not have to separate the two hood pieces. We will see.

 

[hingstin]

Do Not run it with the vts arm loose the end nozzle will jump up and down, and brakes.
Fix it with something.. an hose clamp and a piece of metalsheet or whatever...
I dont think it will leak at the sponson screws but check that it holds in place and dont viggle and brokes.....

It can be that the "pisset" dont work with hose.. but check atleast that it is open.. blow into it and check grommets are "open" in both end.. so you have somekind of controll over the cooling water...

 

[burtshaver2021]

Do Not run it with the vts arm loose the end nozzle will jump up and down, and brakes.
Fix it with something.. an hose clamp and a piece of metalsheet or whatever...
I dont think it will leak at the sponson screws but check that it holds in place and dont viggle and brokes.....

It can be that the "pisset" dont work with hose.. but check atleast that it is open.. blow into it and check grommets are "open" in both end.. so you have somekind of controll over the cooling water...

Thank you, I figured I shouldn’t run it without the nozzle being attached but I figured I would ask. I have that part on a parts 96XP I have so I will change that before going out. It’s not looking like I will be getting it out anytime soon anyways. I want to get this hood functioning first so I can open it up while I’m on the water.

 

[JJinSC]

1. You should be fine for a short ride
2. Already covered fix the vts linkage somehow so it will not move under force.

3. You should be seeing water out the pisser while on the hose.

 

[burtshaver2021]

1. You should be fine for a short ride
2. Already covered fix the vts linkage somehow so it will not move under force.

3. You should be seeing water out the pisser while on the hose.

I will fix the vts linkage before taking it out. I’m not excited about figuring out why no water is coming from the pisser. I guess checking the manual to see how the water routes would be first step? Then work from the pisser back?

 

[MAL]

Unfortunately it is just like the DESS key was pulled when it stops so I don’t think I will be able to check for spark when it happens. This is going to sound crazy but the battery connections are not very tight, lol, I haven’t tightened them yet, I think because I’ve already decided I’m in this so I’m just going ahead and getting it cleaned up and sanded before winter. Much easier to wet sand outside than in my shop. I’m hoping the cutting out is just that battery connection or possibly a dirty or failing DESS post. If I get these fuel lines changed and micro filters cleaned before October I will at least take it out and see if it keeps water out. Just don’t want to chance hiring it with the grey lines still on it

I have had the Dess key itself cause sudden stalling. I finally figured it out by wiggling the Dess key as it tried to stall and was able to save it. Try the wiggle test while it is running.

 

[burtshaver2021]

I have had the Dess key itself cause sudden stalling. I finally figured it out by wiggling the Dess key as it tried to stall and was able to save it. Try the wiggle test while it is running.

Once I get everything back together I will give that a try, that’s where I was leaning as well. Do you know have to clean up the DESS post and key? I think I remember seeing to use scotchbrite but not sure on that.

 

[MAL]

My DESS key was loose and worn out...had to go to the stealer and get a new one. I think I have read something about a Q-tip and alcohol to clean them. looking for small metal shards stuck to the magnet I think.

 

[burtshaver2021]

I’m just about done now with the fuel lines, but what am I doing wrong with those OEM fuel hose clamps. When I did my HX I thought I was putting a small screwdriver in the little hole at the top and twisting, I remember most of them just clicking and being loose when I did the HX but I couldn’t get one of them to come loose today.

 

[JJinSC]

I’m just about done now with the fuel lines, but what am I doing wrong with those OEM fuel hose clamps. When I did my HX I thought I was putting a small screwdriver in the little hole at the top and twisting, I remember most of them just clicking and being loose when I did the HX but I couldn’t get one of them to come loose today.

I used a dremel to cut’em.

I noticed the pisser loss lot of pressure when one of my welch plugs started leaking. Make sure when the hose and motor are running there are no leaks inside. Did you inspect the pisser for dirt dobbers?

 

[burtshaver2021]

I used a dremel to cut’em.

I noticed the pisser loss lot of pressure when one of my welch plugs started leaking. Make sure when the hose and motor are running there are no leaks inside. Did you inspect the pisser for dirt dobbers?

I haven’t looked at the cooling issue at all, but I will check for dirt dobbers first. I think you could be right on the money , the pressure relief valve wasn’t working right either. It’s right beside the pisser fitting and looked crudy.