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Help troubleshooting 94 xp 657cc

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marioseadoo

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i bought this 94 xp, ran couple times but it would die after giving it gas, i was told needed the carbs cleaned which was something the previous owner didnt have done, althought he did say the motor was rebuilt. Had the carbs cleaned and i instaleld new fuel lines, it ran two times for about 20 seconds each, and it just wont stay running, it does crank and all, can someone offer me some help? thank you
 
Did you clean the fuel selector valve, actually I have had zero luck cleaning them, I would just get a new one. You can simply bypass the valve for testing.

Lou
 
yes i cleaned that with carb cleaner, and some nasty chunks of rubber house came out, and i am getting fuel on the fuel lines at the carburator inlets
 
who cleaned the carbs? did they rebuild them with genuine mikuni parts? replace needles and seats? did they change the internal filters? it sounds like the carbs need a bit more work.
 
i got a friend who works on boats, not jetskis, and he cleaned and rebuilt the carbs with genuine mikuni parts. the needles where fine he said, and i trust his opinion. I hope he chaged the internal filters on the carbs, i was reading about those on the manuals.
 
do you know if he checked the pop off and what it was set to?

have you had the fuel baffle out? it could be clogged with gunk at the bottom? i'd go ahead and check compression just to be sure of what you're working with.

you say it will start, but won't stay running? how does it die? just shuts off, bogs down, backfires? as much detail as possible is important here.
 
If you got pieces of rubber when you cleaned the fuel selector valve it's shot and leaking air into the system, replace it.

Lou
 
pop off? dont know what that is, but one thing he did told me to do and i did it upon manual instructions was adjusting the low speed screw on each carb. Yea i took the baffle out to clean the gas tank, baffle looked good and clean.
I will check for compression now, if i can get the sprak plugs out, someone put some good ole elbow grease and they are tight.
Well this is the story, when i got it the guy said the motor had been rebuild, that same day i test run it with my brother and it ran fine, but when you gave it a lot of gas it would go for about 30-40 seconds full throtle then it would stop, but the engine still running, you would give it some gas and then it would stall and die. So i told my friend and he said the carbs need be clean, i took the carbs apart and gave them to him, he cleaned them and put a new OEM seals kit. Since it had the old grey hoses i changed those myself, so i figure now with new hoses and cleaned carbs it should start right up, but no, it does crank like i said but only 2 times it stayed running for 30secs and shut off, smoke came off the back as usual.
 
If you got pieces of rubber when you cleaned the fuel selector valve it's shot and leaking air into the system, replace it.

Lou

well it wasnt exactly rubber, but more like the goo off the fuel lines, you know from ethanol. Does anyone else agree with LouDoo?
 
Ok im going to do the following from what someone of you have said: test for compression, and bypass the valve, which will be a pain because i used oeticker clamps and those are hard to break off without damaging the new fuel hose
 
just hit the oetiker clamps with wire cutters 90 degrees to the fuel line on the crimp, with a little twist, they should pop loose. i just did the lines in my gtx on monday night, gave me appreciation for the few places where sea-doo put worm gear clamps in my 97 xp.
 
I agree side cutters are the answer. Don't even need to cut them in most cases, you can twist the head once you grab it with the cutters.
 
Ok i havent had a chance to do the things i was going to try from what some of you suggested, but a couple things i notice while taking the carbs off there was little oil down in the air inlets, in other words where the carbs sit, and when i got the spark plugs out they are a bit wet not dripping wet but they are not dry, any are of these two findings an issue or normal?
 
ok this is what i did, ran a fuel line from the hole that says "on" not the "reserve" one, straight to the carbs, still didnt run. Checked compression and i got 140 on the MAG side, and 130 on the PTO side, i dont know much about compression so is this good or bad?
 
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i'm guessing you drained and put fresh fuel in the tank too?

those compression numbers are workable. did you put a fuel filter in the fuel line before the carbs? can you see it fill with fuel? you said it was pulling fuel from the tank right? have you checked for spark? also did your friend replace or clean out the little filters inside the carbs? they are under the plate on the opposite side from the needle/seat/spring stuff and don't normally come with a rebuild kit.
 
Yes tank was drained and professinaly cleaned. No filter was put on fuel line, it went straight from the baffle to the carbs. i dont know if it was pulling gas or not, how do i check for that? there is spark, it cranks it just doesnt turn on and stay running. my friend is a pro mechanic he rebuilt the carbs and cleaned them so is nothin related with the carbs for sure as i know if something would have needed to be changed he would have done it, he just cant work on the ski because he has a full time job at a shop and is having family issues so i was lucky he did the rebuilt and clean
 
I am not familiar with the valve, but if it is like motorcycles, the valve is not like a normal in-line fitting.

"On" is normally from the side or angled fitting and reserve is normally the straight fitting. For the heck of it, I would try the fuel line on the other fitting to see what you get..
 
It still sounds like a fuel delivery problem, but if you are certain the carbs. have been rebuilt properly, internal fuel filters are clean, and the pop off is correct, and there are no air leaks the next thing to check would be electrical.

Check to see if you have a constant spark, I use an inductive timing light or you can use a spark checker.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=spark checker

Lou
 
Yea i trust my friend 100%. Well i dont know if i mention this but the jetski ran great when i first got it about 2 months ago, the only problem it had then was that whenever you gave it full throtle it would run for about 20-30seconds and then stall but the engine would stay running, then you would try giving it full throtle and it wouldnt go, it just run slow, hence why when i told my friend this he said carbs needed to be cleaned. So do you really think its electrical?
 
Yea i trust my friend 100%. Well i dont know if i mention this but the jetski ran great when i first got it about 2 months ago, the only problem it had then was that whenever you gave it full throtle it would run for about 20-30seconds and then stall but the engine would stay running, then you would try giving it full throtle and it wouldnt go, it just run slow, hence why when i told my friend this he said carbs needed to be cleaned. So do you really think its electrical?

Well, not to be rude but, it was running, but not well with an apparent fuel delivery issue, your buddy worked on the carbs and now it doesnt start at all. Are you really sure it's NOT still a fuel issue?
 
im sorry for the question, im not very knowledgeable on pwc, but is there a fuel pump on this things? i just now stop to think i dont see how is the fuel being delivered to the carbs?
 
Yea ive been doing some reading on a manual i got online but it doesnt say much though. Yea i was just reading it talking about the pump body on the mag side but it doesnt refer to it as the fuel pump. So the thing i dont understand is how is fuel being delivered? does this pump inside the mag side carb like suck the gas, or what?
 
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