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help...gtx-di bombaider only hitting 32 mph top speed??

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haydenkirk93

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just bought a gtx -di bombaider 950cc 2 stroke (135hr).. im very new to the water seen, so forgive me if i ask or do some amateur things.

so top speed on this thing is only 32mph but ive seen on forums that stock they should at least be hitting 50mph, first i thought that it was either the wear ring or the impeller but after close inspection there are no dings on the impeller and the gap between the wear ring is only paper width... changed out the spark plugs and that didnt do anything... im running regular gas in it, as thats what the manual said... but ive read online its best to run mid grade so ive emptyed the tank and filled it back up with mid grade.. since then ive pulled the anchor out the front to try and get tho nose up a little more... i havent took it out again since the anchor has been removed and gas switched.. but im pretty sure those 2 little things are not going to knock 20 mph off of my top speed... any ideas guys?!?! thanks
 
First things first would be to run a compression check. What are the RPM's at full throttle?

Most likely I think your Rave Valves are probably carboned up and stuck.

Do a compression check, you should see around 135. anything less than 120 is rebuild time. Let us know what you find.
 
from what i can remember the rpms are between 6500-6800 i really hope its not an engine rebuild time... ill do a crompession check here soon and post the results
,thanks
 
ohhh, "could of been worse on a di ski" what does that mean? did i buy a fix or repair daily version of a seadoo? i already have a jeep i dont need another pain in the but that im fixing constantly lol...
 
- BiRkS_ said:
First things first would be to run a compression check. What are the RPM's at full throttle?

Most likely I think your Rave Valves are probably carboned up and stuck.

Do a compression check, you should see around 135. anything less than 120 is rebuild time. Let us know what you find.
Click to expand...

ok so after the compression test 1 side came out at 100 and other came out at 110... so not good news... i can pull the engine apart if i need to.. but id rather not, is there anything i can buy out there that is made to clean out that kind of stuff?? also where do i go from here?? anymore tests i should do..
thanks
 
Try with another gauge to be sure. Usually the reading is different with another gauge.

DI machines are very complicated and expensive when things go wrong. You practically need a computer to diagnose anything. Kind of like OBD2 in cars but more proprietary.

When they work, their great, when they don't, it gets expensive quick.

Seems like its time for a rebuild but first try and confirm your gauge is good before jumping into it.
 
Mekanix said:
Try with another gauge to be sure. Usually the reading is different with another gauge.

DI machines are very complicated and expensive when things go wrong. You practically need a computer to diagnose anything. Kind of like OBD2 in cars but more proprietary.

When they work, their great, when they don't, it gets expensive quick.

Seems like its time for a rebuild but first try and confirm your gauge is good before jumping into it.
Click to expand...

Ok well I do have 2 testers I will try both tomorow aswell .. I think first ill start by cleaning up the rave system.. Found a gasket kit online for 15 bucks so its worth trying that first... Then ill do another compression check and see what I get.. Thanks
 
haydenkirk93 said:
Ok well I do have 2 testers I will try both tomorow aswell .. I think first ill start by cleaning up the rave system.. Found a gasket kit online for 15 bucks so its worth trying that first... Then ill do another compression check and see what I get.. Thanks
Click to expand...

ok so i cleaned up the raves calves made them all pretty every thing looks good, expect compression is reading 100 on both sides still, when i pulled out the far side rave valve there was water droplets on it.. where do i go from here?? thanks
 
Raves won't affect compression that much.

Did you hold the throttle wide open while checking ?

Water could have been from the base but it could also have come from the pipe.
Water will condensate in the pipe and work its way everywhere.
 
Mekanix said:
Raves won't affect compression that much.

Did you hold the throttle wide open while checking ?

Water could have been from the base but it could also have come from the pipe.
Water will condensate in the pipe and work its way everywhere.
Click to expand...

boy am i glad you came along!... ok reading on both sides is identical at 122.. is this good?
 
jhjesse said:
With rpms at 6500 to 6800 and only 32 mph I would change the carbon seal. Also change the bellows while changing the carbon seal.

http://www.shopsbt.com/sea-2002-dgtxdi/sea-doo-driveline-rebuild-kit-gs-xp-gsx-gti-gts.html

http://www.shopsbt.com/sea-2002-dgtxdi/sea-doo-drive-line-bellow-sp-gti-xp-gtx-272000041.html

http://www.shopsbt.com/sea-2002-dgtxdi/sea-doo-wear-ring-w-plastic-pump-gsx-gtx-271000653.html
Click to expand...

is there any way of finding out before I start replacing stuff and spending money on things that I'm not quite sure are broken?
 
Yes, there is a way, I learned this tip from Dr Honda, put a dab of waterproof grease between the carbon seal and the stainless steel ring, if the problem clears up you need to replace the carbon seal.

Here's another trick that worked for me, I put some valve lapping compound between the carbon seal and the stainless steel ring, because my carbon seal had become glazed, it's been fine for the last two years.

Lou
 
ok cool im scheduled to take it out Monday morning so I'll give it a whirl and I'll keep you all posted, thank you so much for all your help guys!!
 
LouDoo said:
Yes, there is a way, I learned this tip from Dr Honda, put a dab of waterproof grease between the carbon seal and the stainless steel ring, if the problem clears up you need to replace the carbon seal.

Here's another trick that worked for me, I put some valve lapping compound between the carbon seal and the stainless steel ring, because my carbon seal had become glazed, it's been fine for the last two years.

Lou
Click to expand...

Hmm, learn something new every day :P
 
LouDoo said:
Yes, there is a way, I learned this tip from Dr Honda, put a dab of waterproof grease between the carbon seal and the stainless steel ring, if the problem clears up you need to replace the carbon seal.

Here's another trick that worked for me, I put some valve lapping compound between the carbon seal and the stainless steel ring, because my carbon seal had become glazed, it's been fine for the last two years.

Lou
Click to expand...

thanks Lou, I'll keep that in mind.
 
Another newbie here....I have the same ski, same problem except I'm only reaching 6000 rpm's & topping out at 35mph....I've been reading a lot on here & this sounds a lot like mine....does mine sound like the same thing or should I be looking at something else since my rpm's are lower ? Mine also sounds like it has an intermittent misfire while moving slowly though the marina....
 
snsbuck said:
Another newbie here....I have the same ski, same problem except I'm only reaching 6000 rpm's & topping out at 35mph....I've been reading a lot on here & this sounds a lot like mine....does mine sound like the same thing or should I be looking at something else since my rpm's are lower ? Mine also sounds like it has an intermittent misfire while moving slowly though the marina....[/QUOTE

Yours sounds a little differnt to mine.. Did you check the flux capacitor??
Click to expand...
 
233.jpg



snsbuck
It could be in need of a rebuild if its not reaching the proper RPM's
Try going through the same things haydenkirk93 did. Check compression, have a look at the prop and wear ring for any bends or missing chunks.
 
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