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Help for a newbie...

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I contacted Westside as well.
Is there an air filter that goes in this?
 
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
He’s correct, I read them backwards myself...

Yes, the filter is the piece to the far right in the eBay photo...
 
Here is a good source for many things relating to seadoos, but in particular this one has all the factory carb settings listed for all carburated seadoos.

Sea Doo PWC Carburetor Reference

try to stay positive about the situation. These things are 20+ years old and you will have to spend a lot of time fooling with them. I bought my first seadoo in winter thinking id have it ready for summer and went clear through to the next winter before I had the thing ready to hit the water. The good news is that by the time you have the thing water ready you will know a lot about them and as you will likely have the thing beached and your tool set out trying to figure some new and irritating problem out at some point, you will be glad you had to learn the things you did
 
update....
Go an airbox!

Not sure if 1 low and 1-1/2 on high are the right settings, but staying with it until I am advise different.

Before going to lake, I started it in driveway...it sounded different....like starter staying engaged.
Turned it off, then back on...sounded normal.

Went to lake and had a blast and rode it about 45 minutes before taking a swim with daughter.
Later...Seadoo would not start. Just a clank and that's it.
Removed spark plugs and it slowly cranked.

I think starter stayed engaged while we were riding...and drained battery too.

Funny story, but we were only a 1/4 mile from ramp and "sailed" it back with the wind and current. It didn't hurt that I had a collapsible oar in the cowl trunk to assist.

Charged battery, but still would not crank well (with plugs removed).
Would not crank at all with plugs in.
Replaced starter solenoid and it cranks and starts well.

Took continuity test on old solenoid...
5 ohms on coil and about 500M ohms across contacts.
I really expected to read infinity (open) across contacts.

My guess is that I probably hurt the starter some and plan to rebuild it this Winter...sooner if it fails.
 
Here is a good source for many things relating to seadoos, but in particular this one has all the factory carb settings listed for all carburated seadoos.

Sea Doo PWC Carburetor Reference

try to stay positive about the situation. These things are 20+ years old and you will have to spend a lot of time fooling with them. I bought my first seadoo in winter thinking id have it ready for summer and went clear through to the next winter before I had the thing ready to hit the water. The good news is that by the time you have the thing water ready you will know a lot about them and as you will likely have the thing beached and your tool set out trying to figure some new and irritating problem out at some point, you will be glad you had to learn the things you did



thanks...I am staying positive and love to tinker as long as I am getting results.
 
I doubt the starter stayed engaged

its more likely that you have some sort of parasitic draw or your stator isn't doing its job.

would it have started if the battery was full?

Sidenote: if you have not already, you should seriously consider installing aftermarket bilge pump. in situations like the one you spoke of (having to float for an extended period with the motor off), your ski is most likely going to start filling in with water.
 
I doubt the starter stayed engaged

its more likely that you have some sort of parasitic draw or your stator isn't doing its job.

would it have started if the battery was full?

Sidenote: if you have not already, you should seriously consider installing aftermarket bilge pump. in situations like the one you spoke of (having to float for an extended period with the motor off), your ski is most likely going to start filling in with water.


No...it would not start with full battery. tried that when I got home. Starter was weak with plugs removed and cranking. Then I changed solenoid and it cranked strong with plugs installed. I need to start and see what voltage is going to battery when running to verify what you said about stator.

interesting thought about bilge and probably a good idea. It barely had water in it when we got to trailer. Last Winter I installed new shaft seal (whole kit) but before then, previous owner told me it took on water. Great idea and I have one sitting around from my full size boat.

I am pretty sure starter stayed engaged when I cranked it at home. Distinct sound of started cranking, then engine started and same sound was blended with engine sound. I did NOT hear same sound when we started in the water, but I was not paying attention..
 
Never had a bilge pump in any of my skis that I wasn't going to be surf riding and never had one take on water.
Yes it's a good backup but in my experience not necessary.
 
Here's something I am very interested in....
I hear that if you tow a Sea Doo in the water, you could put water in your engine.
If that's the case, I would like to put a valve on that water line just in case I need to do that.

My plans are to take the PWC with me when we take the full size boat (see avatar) out.
If it dies, I would then need to tow it back.
 
started Seadoo in driveway again last night...starter sounds so much better. Smooth, fast, fast reacting and just a more solid sound. I think the contacts in old solenoid were pitted....it is a 1997. Sometimes there use to be a delay or no reaction when I push start button, but no more.

Also put a meter on battery while running. As it turns out, I am supposed to rev to 5500 to get an accurate reading. At idle....12.5V.
 
Just give the ski a few revvs. The voltage should increase. This is always a good quick check. I did this to 1996 XP just for kicks and DANG if the voltage didn't drop when I revved the ski. That explains a few things. Ha ha.
 
The hose on the head at the back, closest to the exhaust side.

You can see there is a little arrow pointing into the head.
 
Please let me know if this sounds normal….



Start up on trailer

If I try and rev it (when cold) immediately, I get a little bog throttle response.

This continues until engine runs for 5-10 seconds.

Then throttle response is awesome and how it should be.



I thought it might be a tiny bit lean, but maybe this is normal.



Stock air box installed.

1-1/2 low and 1 high
 
You have something mechanically wrong with the low cylinder. You should not have that much difference in compression between them.
 
You have something mechanically wrong with the low cylinder. You should not have that much difference in compression between them.
Yes....I've been told this before. Seems to run OK (for this Summer). Looks like I have a Winter project. Trying to keep costs down, so any recommendations would be helpful. I assume cylinder boring and new pistons & rings.

I did put all new gaskets on head/water jacket and cleaned carbon from cylinders. Have not run a new compression check since then. The numbers I gave you recently were from before that process.
 
Engine runs great...but I have a new problem.
Heard a noise while riding Saturday and immediately turned towards ramp (was about a 1/4 mile away) then I heard a thunk. Engine quit, would not crank. Just heard a clank when I hit starter. Oh no! that familiar sound my outboard had years ago...a seize. Pulled it out of water and smelled that nasty smelling gear old. Good news, bad news....Engine OK, but pump seized BIG TIME.

I cannot even loosen the impeller, but my vice isn't good enough to hold it. Seen used complete pump with impeller for about $250. Suggestions? Help? anyone know where I can get a less expensive pump?

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