Got me a new 1993 SP but it won't start

[RodInEscondido]

So I had a brain-fart, woke up and thunk: just take the cylinders to any local auto-rebuild shop. Unless you got a bunch of real assoles, they should be able to do a quick glaze-breaking hone job for pretty reasonable. They will, of course, recommend measuring the cylinders for bore and roundness ... up to you.

I gotta go have the neighbors engage in a crow-eating session: do not know which of my procedures worked, but had a mini-thunderstorm pass over this morning and actually had rain for about a half-hour ... yay!!!!

Rod

 

[d9h]

Glad to hear u got some rain! I was able to reach and drain the rear plug but didn't have time to do the front plug. I gave it a quick crank and it coughed and sputtered like it was going to run but didn't. I'm on vacation this week but will try again Sunday

 

[RodInEscondido]

Glad to hear u got some rain! I was able to reach and drain the rear plug but didn't have time to do the front plug. I gave it a quick crank and it coughed and sputtered like it was going to run but didn't. I'm on vacation this week but will try again Sunday

Yup, that is what the one I mentioned above did. I hooked up a small test fuel tank from a whiskey bottle and hooked it into the input of the fuel filter/water separator and a return line from the carb back to the bottle. I did this because I did not know the condition of the fuel delivery system (fuel tank was empty). If you do something like this, please be very careful regarding spillage. I used clear/blue genuine fuel line so I could look for flow and leaks. Also remember if you happen to get tempted to hook up the return cooling water flush that the procedure is: engine on, water on, water off, engine off. You really do not need this for very short runs (I keep it to less than 30 seconds then cool off).

 

[d9h]

Update: So I finally got a chance to try again yesterday. Battery charged and spark arrestor back on. I cranked a few times and nothing. I poured a little fuel in both spark plug holes and it fired. It idled rough for a few seconds and died. I tried a few more times and it fired again, this time idling better. I gave it a few blips of the throttle and it reved and seemed to smooth out. I was trying all this in my garage so no water hooked up. I only ran it for about 20 seconds and then shut it off with my "stop" button. Then not so much as a pop. It wouldn't fire at all. I let it cool about 30 min and tried starting it again. Again, nothing. I tried pouring fuel mix in the spark plug holes again and nothing again. Tried a few more min and stopped. What do you think is going on?
David

 

[RodInEscondido]

If you are connected to fuel system, you may have sucked in some crap to the carb.

You can try my temporary fuel tank. For single/short use, regular vinyl 1/4 inch works, but it gets hard after very short exposure to gas (another story for another thread in the future). This has genuine fuel line. I found it works best placed behind the engine with the fuel level below the carb. Will expose shortfalls in the fuel delivery system as well as fuel return (with engine running). Short runs only and be very careful of leaks.

If you have not done it already, it is best to clean out the entire fuel system. Watch for rotted lines on the pick-ups in the fuel tank.

Rod

 

[d9h]

Thanks for the pic. The carb is what I was thinking. I'll check all the filters while I'm at it. I would have thought it would have fired when I pour gas mix into the spark plug holes. That's when I stopped.

 

[RodInEscondido]

Same situation I found when doing this to a 90 SP that had been sitting for quite a while and I hooked up pictured temp fuel source. I was using choke and apparently flooded the beast; needed to take choke off, hold full throttle and try to start several times with cool-off period twixt attempts. When it did seriously fire off it was very rough for a number of seconds and spit out all kinds of black crap from exhaust. Went thru several cycles of short run, cool down for couple hours, do it again.

 

[d9h]

Finally going to have sometime on Saturday to try a few things. The last time, when I got it started, the exhaust was white smoke. I'm not terribly concerned at this point because I ran it for about 20 seconds, but could this be an indicator of other issues? Anything I should be paying attention to when I get it started again?
Thanks,
David

 

[RodInEscondido]

I may be way off, but generally think water with white exhaust. Are you running with water hose (you might have covered this above)? If so, remember the sequence: insure engine has started before turning on water and turn water off before stopping engine.

 

[d9h]

I'm not running a water hose. I haven't run it more than 20 seconds (the one time it started) I've been checking the filters today. Fuel filter was clean. I'm going to replace the inline oil filter, do I need a certain kind? The one I have looks generic. I also pulled off the carb and cleaned the little filter on the pulse side. It did have some junk in it. I also blew some air through the gas tank vent and it was clean. Any other vents I need to check? Once I get the oil filter replaced and things back together, I'm going to try the temporary fuel setup you set earlier. I tried pouring fuel in the spark plug holes yesterday, but didn't get so much as a pop or a hint of it turning over.

 

[d9h]

Getting closer. So after cleaning all the filters and replacing the inline oil filter I tried to start it. It acted like it was trying to start, so I kept trying. I poured some weedeater premix fuel in the spark plug holes and kept trying. It finally turned over and ran for about 30 seconds before I turned it off. I waited about a min and then tried to start it again. It cranked again and ran for about 10 seconds and then died. I tried turning it over again, but it wouldn't fire. Does it have an automatic shutoff when it gets too hot? After running it those two times I looked out back of the seadoo and there was a lot of oil coming out the exhaust. As I mentioned earlier when I pulled the large canister (must be the muffler) it was full of oil. I tried to drain it but it was somehow trapped (I figured the baffles were keeping it in there). When I tilted the trailer up (to move it to the backyard) more oil began to drain out the back. It was a pretty large puddle, like half a quart. I checked the inside and there don't appear to be any leaks or any additional oil on the inside.
I need to pick up a flush kit adaptor so I can run it safely for a little longer.
Thanks,
David

 

[RodInEscondido]

Now there is a familiar symptom: lotta oil. Had this problem with 90 SP that had sat for a while, had a helluva time initially getting it to run. You have the luxury on the 587 engine to have drain plugs on the carb side at the bottom of the case. For me, when the oil initially got blown out after several short runs things smoothed out a bunch. 1 minute cool-down will not cut it, feel the thru-hull for the drive shaft (difficult to feel the starter), it gets pretty hot within less than 30 seconds.

Does sound like getting closer. Impatience is sometimes cured by sitting out under that shade tree with a cold drink.

 

[d9h]

I picked up a hose adaptor so I can run it a bit longer and maybe flush out the rest of the oil. How long is safe to run it with the hose attached?

 

[d9h]

The adaptor I bought at the seadoo dealership didn't fit, ugh! I found an alternative this weekend and hopefully I'll get to try again Tuesday or Thursday.