Getting colder in NE, winterization questions

[MLars]

Hey guys, almost time to winterize my 787 GTX. Just have a couple questions:

1. When changing pump oil, all I need to put it back on is a new o-ring and blue loc tite for the 3 bolts right? Or is it better to put some sealant on the o-ring?

2. For antifreeze, should I do a 50/50 mix or 100% antifreeze? There seems to be some controversy over this.

3. In the shop manual, it says to spray their Bombardier Lube into the engine. Why would I use this instead of fogging oil?

4. When testing the pump cone pressure, do I need to buy a $50 tester? Or can I just use another gauge, like an electric pump with a psi gauge? What size fitting would I need?

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[jammin777]

when i had my boat (sold to to purchase a seadoo) i used full strength rv pink anti freeze. I'm assuming that should be OK for pwc. someone may chime in and correct me if I'm wrong but is a lot cheaper then automotive antifreeze.
the bombardier spay lube i think is the same is fogging oil. i looked at my service manual and looks like you put the o ring for the cone on dry. and yes blue lock tight on the 3 screws that hold the cone on. I'm in the same boat having to come up with a pressure tester.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

For quick work, I use 100% concentration recreational vehicle antifreeze, it's colored pink and non-toxic. For multiple winterizations during the busy season, I mix this RV antifreeze with water in my large tank using an optical specific gravity gauge to adjust the amount of freeze protection, it doesn't need to be 100% concentration. I do 6 or more boats per day, so it makes a difference in cost.

I use antiseize compound on the pump cone screw threads, despite that the service manual specifies loc-tite blue.

The service manual suggests using silicone sealer on the o-ring, I think it's okay to leave them dry(oil film) as long as the leak check passes. I have a strong dislike for silicone sealers.

Static leak check: Any gauge/manifold capable of reading near half scale at 10psi would work great, a bourdon tube type gauge with 0~30psi range would be my choice but many 0~60psi gauges should work okay and double for other uses. If using a 0~60psi gauge then wait longer to see any changes. It's my experience that leaks show up quickly and are easily detected right away regardless, since the cavity volumes are small.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

As far as the fitting for the pressure tester goes, I don't recall the exact size unfortunately. Try taking the Allen-head sealing plug to the hardware store and matching one up.

For some reason I'm thinking it's 3/8" pipe thread, or maybe even the same as a mercruiser stern drive lube injector fitting, there are so many different sizes I can't keep it straight anymore guys, I just have a box of fittings and use whichever fits........ Sorry I can'! really tell you which is the correct size!

This pump has the mercruiser fitting, but I'm sure the threads are too course:

http://www.sterndrive.info/sterndriveparts/oil_pump.html

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Check out how this guy built one:

http://www.ebay.com/gds/HOME-MADE-GEARCASE-TESTER-FOR-OUTBOARDS-/10000000005752461/g.html

The tester I have looks just like this one, I have both for vacuum and pressure and have had them since the 70's:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stevens-V-3..._Accessories_Gear&hash=item19d5f86716&vxp=mtr

 

[Robj]

The pipe thread for the pump cone plug is 1/8 npt.

 

[MLars]

Thanks for all the help guys! Looks like I'll just use RV antifreeze, maybe a little diluted. And thanks for the link sportster to the homemade pressure tester, just wish the pics worked.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Thanks for all the help guys! Looks like I'll just use RV antifreeze, maybe a little diluted. And thanks for the link sportster to the homemade pressure tester, just wish the pics worked.

There's no need to dilute the antifreeze, just pour it in there so it can mix with any water in there.

And a simple air pump something like this will work for pressure testing, you'll need a gauge head and manifold, like a "T" fitting or something:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-Bicycle-...d=100005&prg=1088&rk=4&rkt=4&sd=171102871523&

 

[MLars]

How about something like this, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...+Air+Compressors+&+Inflators-_-9SIA1GK0SE3698

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

How about something like this, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...+Air+Compressors+&+Inflators-_-9SIA1GK0SE3698

That would work just fine, along with a "T" fitting for a gauge head and a schraeder valve mounted on one end of the "T" to connect the air pump.

Maybe I should make some of these up, throw in a hand full of different size adapter fittings and put 'em on ebay, LOL!

I probably would, if the 4-tecs used oil instead of grease.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

The only thing about that hand pump though is it doesn't have a hose, so you might want something that's not rigidly attached to the cavity your testing, personal preference.

In case you decide you want to test vacuum at a later date, you could get a gauge head like this one to mount on the "T" manifold, this gauge can measure both vacuum and pressure, but max pressure is 10psi, which is just enough for the service manual test pressure:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/7120-HEAVY-..._Automotive_Tools&hash=item2ec44763e7&vxp=mtr

Maybe Harbor Freight has these? A radiator pressure tester, with all kinds of radiator cap adapters you could adapt this thing and it's got a 30psi gauge ready to go:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Radiator-Pu..._Automotive_Tools&hash=item565a9bb5eb&vxp=mtr

 

[Spimothy Leary]

step 1) move to florida,
step 2) ,, there is no step 2.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

Hey guys, almost time to winterize my 787 GTX. Just have a couple questions:

1. When changing pump oil, all I need to put it back on is a new o-ring and blue loc tite for the 3 bolts right? Or is it better to put some sealant on the o-ring?
2. For antifreeze, should I do a 50/50 mix or 100% antifreeze? There seems to be some controversy over this.
3. In the shop manual, it says to spray their Bombardier Lube into the engine. Why would I use this instead of fogging oil?
4. When testing the pump cone pressure, do I need to buy a $50 tester? Or can I just use another gauge, like an electric pump with a psi gauge? What size fitting would I need?
Thanks for the help guys.

I've read all the posts and 100% pink is OK, I've used that for several yrs and no problems here in Michigan.
Also add fuel stabilizer, Marine type if possible but more $$$, Run the motor after adding it to the gas tank.

 

[MLars]

step 1) move to florida,
step 2) ,, there is no step 2.

I wish spim lol, some day though.

 

[MLars]

I've read all the posts and 100% pink is OK, I've used that for several yrs and no problems here in Michigan.
Also add fuel stabilizer, Marine type if possible but more $$$, Run the motor after adding it to the gas tank.

Yeah I just found some marine stabil and fogging spray in my garage from my old boat, I'm sure that will work fine.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

step 1) move to florida,
step 2) ,, there is no step 2.

I think he has a spare room to rent.....just move your whole family there, he won't mind......NOT!!

 

[grhonk]

Made my own from supplies laying around the house from my beer making days ... works great ... absolutely no drop in pressure after holding it for 30 minutes under 20 psi of pressure. The only thing I had to buy was the barbed to 1/8" pipe thread fitting at the end of the black fuel hose.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Made my own from supplies laying around the house from my beer making days ... works great ... absolutely no drop in pressure after holding it for 30 minutes under 20 psi of pressure. The only thing I had to buy was the barbed to 1/8" pipe thread fitting at the end of the black fuel hose.

Good job gr! 20psi is nearing the limit on that though, I prefer 10~12psi because I don't want to damage the lip seals, blow them out. So be careful about pumping these up with too much pressure.

Now you have to make a vacuum pump pressure tester to test for an inward leak!

 

[grhonk]

Good job gr! 20psi is nearing the limit on that though, I prefer 10~12psi because I don't want to damage the lip seals, blow them out. So be careful about pumping these up with too much pressure.

Now you have to make a vacuum pump pressure tester to test for an inward leak!

Sportster, thanks for the comment on the gauge. Well, I believe Lou goes to 30 psi for 30 minutes. Anyway, what's this about a inward leak? Is that recommended in the manual somewhere?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Sportster, thanks for the comment on the gauge. Well, I believe Lou goes to 30 psi for 30 minutes. Anyway, what's this about a inward leak? Is that recommended in the manual somewhere?

I dunno what Lou does, but too much pressure and the seals will pop out, I promise. I pump sterndrives to 15psi and stop there. Sterndrives are expensinve $$$$$.$$, so I check for leaks both ways, vacuum -20" mercury and pressure +15psig (g=gauge) to make sure no water can get in.

It's hard to make vacuum, -14.7psi is the most negative pressure possible.

So, I was kinda joking with you b/c you did a nice job on you're pressure tester, I thought you might want to make a negative pressure vacuum checker as well, and test for leaks in both directions.

http://www.international-auto.com/f...uges/tips-on-reading-gauges-vacuum-gauges.cfm