General question on a GTI

[rigger4343]

My wife and I just traded our dirt bikes for a nice 04 GTI RFI. It only has a 100 hours on it and has always been fresh water run. It looks to be in really good shape. It is just over 160 psi on both cylinders. Have not had it in the water yet but it seems to start and run like a champ on the trailer.

I could not find a ton of info on this particular ski before I went and got it but the little bit I did find seemed to be good. Are there any known problems that I need to stay on top of with this boat? Or just ride and maintain it with some common since.

I really love the 2-stroke part of it. I guess I am just old school but I really did not want a 4-stroke motor in my jet ski. Given no major failers happen, what is the average hours of use I might get out of this motor before it is time to freshen it up?
And are the cylinders plated? I could not find an answer to that one.

Anyway, thanks for any info on the boat guys. Here is a quick picture of her.

 

[Bills86e]

Obtaining performance

At the first sign of any performance issue, change the spark plugs. ALWAYS use stabil with anti-ethanol and an anti-water vapor dryer like
alcohol as these skis large tank atracks moisture. This ski is low in the maintenance scale. If its low on gas now, I recommend a gas tank swabbing. 99% of Seadoo problems are fuel delivery issues. Hope this helps! Change the jetpump cone oil if you don't know when last done. Synthetic 75w90. Read the Manual cover to cover.

Obtain a Factory Service Manual

 

[Dr Honda]

If maintained, the engine in that ski should last an easy 400 hr's, or about 10 years of normal use. I've seen seadoo engines last 15 to 16 years if they aren't abused, and they are taken care of. Part of that is using the right oil. People get lazy, and will use whatever kind of oil they find at the local store. SeaDoo is very specific on the oil needed. You must use a API-TC oil, and your ski should use a synthetic. DO NOT TRY TO USE A TC-w3 OIL !!!! your engine won't last more than a season.

On that note... unless the last owner can tell you exactly what oil they used in the past... I would drain the oil, service the oil injection system, and refill it with a good oil.


As far as the engine... no, SeaDoo/Rotax engines do not have plated jugs. They are a steel liner, in an aluminum housing. You can bore them 3 or 4 times before they need replaced.

Good luck, and have fun.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

the above answers are correct; Bill is dead on with the fuel tank cleaning. The RFIs cannot handle any water in the gas.

The Rave valves should be cleaned about every 50 hrs.

outside of that they are pretty low maintainence!

Make sure to winterize properly.

 

[rigger4343]

I work at a boat dealership so I know all about the fuel problems out there.

So no TCW3 oil ? Is Seadoo the only one that makes the APITC oil ? What are good brands of oil to use with that rating and where are good places to get it ? I was going to run Yamalube in it since I can get from work at bulk prices and at cost. But if that oil wont cut it, then I wont use it.

Also are there any downloadable manuals that I can get ?

I just looked on the Yamaha web site and saw they have a 2-stroke water craft Semi-synthetic oil. It did not list a rating but if this is a good oil to run then I can order it through work and get it at cost.

 

[Dr Honda]

If you become a member here... you can get the manual. (or at least one that will cover the mechanics)

Because the API-TC oils are not required by very many people anymore... and that almost no boat related manufactures use it, it is harder to find. But, the QuickSilver "Synth PWC" oil is very good. Also, Mystic 2-cycle and "Dominator" from Amsoil are API-TC rated. (Any of the SeaDoo oils work)

The only industry that still specs API-TC oil is the Snowmobile guys. They tried to switch to TC-w3, but they were eating pistons because that oil can't protect the engine in the cold weather.

Yamalube won't let your engine live very long.


The second issue with TC-w3 oils are that most of the Rotax engines have a rotary valve, and the gears that spin that valve are lubed by the oil in the injection tank. The TC-w3 oil doesn't protect those gears well.

When it comes down to it... you need a "Low ash" oil... and stay away from anything listed as "Ash-less."

 

[rigger4343]

Thanks for the oil info guys. I have been into bikes for a long time and road stand up skis a long time ago but I guess I need to get up to date on the newer jet ski stuff. I have a good Walmart just right up the street that may have the Quicksilver PWC oil. They have a lot of oils at this one. I am just going to have to go check it out.

Last question on oil, at least for the moment..... How much does the ski use on an average? Am I going to have to buy a gallon for every weekend out or will the oil tank be able to provide enough oil for a few gas tank fill ups? Not that I am ever going to let the oil tank get low, just trying to get an idea of oil consumption.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Dr...is your opinions above specific to the RFI? I know many people including myself using Yamalube in our XPs without any issue. In fact, I have switched over in the last year from using Amsoil since 03 b/c I saw first hand what racers had told me...that it takes coatings off of pistons. I even got a amsoil dealer to admit to me he thought yamalube was the best out there.

There's 100 opinions out there....who knows who's right. I got a couple 250hr machines in right now that only used xps and have never been apart.