Fuel Problems

[get_real]

My 96XP has suddenly developed hard starting and erratic running due to what I believe is a fuel flow problem. It has gotten worse this past weekend at the lake and now will not start without using the choke & throttle and lots of starter time. Battery is fully charged. If you put a little starting fluid in the air cleaner it starts right up.

Just checked fuel filter and fuel lines and see no problems, all look tight and no leaks. I see lots of air spaces in the fuel lines to the engine. Any idea where to look next and how do I determine if the fuel selector is the problem?? Any & all help appreciated!

 

[racerxxx]

When were the carbs rebuilt, when was the fuel system rebuilt.... New hoses, fuel selector, etc. If any of those are original it's time to replace them.

You can bypass the switch by running a hose from the baffle to the carb. Look at the attached pics, that's the fuel selector. If you follow the ON line to the baffle, disconnect that from the baffle. Now get a piece of fuel line and go from the fuel pump to where you removed the hose and try it. But, if you haven't done any carb work I'd start there.

 

[get_real]

Thanks for the reply. I’ve owned the ski for maybe 6-7 years and have done no internal carb work nor replaced the selector switch. Don’t know what might have been done before but it did come from the jet ski shop in Eatonton GA with new clear fuel lines except for the vent lines which are the old gray stuff. Think I will order a new selector before I tear into the carbs. Do I need any specialized tools to work on the carbs?

 

[jts32]

If your carbs haven't been gone through in 6-7 years, I strongly recommend you do so. Most 2 stroke engine failures are caused by poor fuel systems. I go through my carbs every 2-3 years, even if I'm not having run issues

 

[get_real]

I hear you. It’s just run so good up to now and I’ve had mixed results working on various types of carbs in the past. But I’m sure I can do it with everyone’s help on the forum. Is there a sticky or good thread I could use to read up before starting?

 

[racerxxx]

I hear you. It’s just run so good up to now and I’ve had mixed results working on various types of carbs in the past. But I’m sure I can do it with everyone’s help on the forum. Is there a sticky or good thread I could use to read up before starting?

The sticky for the carbs is at the 2 of the 2 stroke section

 

[get_real]

Thanks Dan!

 

[get_real]

I received a fuel selector I purchased on Ebay. It looks used to me, like it's just been cleaned to look newer. It was supposed to be a new OEM product. I see it's made in Taiwan. It came with no packaging and was just loose in the bag and almost busted out. Does this look like a new OEM unit??

 

[racerxxx]

Look at mine. I bought mine from osdparts.com. mine came in an OEM baggie. It says Taiwan on it.

 

[get_real]

Was that a new one you were holding? Lack of an OEM baggie makes me wonder. I also just noticed on Ebay that this seller says no returns, that's a red flag I should have looked at before buying. Also they didn't actually show a picture of the item, just this:

 

[racerxxx]

Who was the seller? Water craft super store?

 

[get_real]

No, somebody called aurora43095!

 

[get_real]

I'm thinking this is what a new one should look like!

 

[racerxxx]

It's probably real. But, it doesn't have great reviews. Here's my rule of thumb, if it's on eBay and not in a seadoo package and I can't for 100% confirm it's original...... I'm not buying. Several larger seadoo parts sellers a very crafty with wording. But this guy you bought from it says seadoo as the mfg.

The reviewers said they leak, so check yours out ASAP, if it leaks, get a refund.

 

[POPPS]

A quick way to bypass the selector is to remove the "on" line at the pickup, remove the "out" line at the fuel filter, and put that line in the "on" line that you just removed, and you will not need an extra hose.

 

[get_real]

Thanks for that suggestion, I plan to try that and take the ski out on the water for a test since I'm going to have to screw around with this Ebay seller to get a "new" OEM selector valve.

I'm also starting to gather supplies/tools for a dual carb rebuild. One question I have is what is the best method of clamping the fuel hose? I've tried zip ties, but don't have a ty-rap tool and see they are quite expensive. I've also tried spring clamps around the baffle. Should I invest in the ty-rap tool and if so what model is best?

 

[jts32]

I just always use #4 stainless hose clamps for the fuel lines

 

[racerxxx]

I use hose clamps too. Yes, they fit everywhere. I get them at Lowe's, 100% stainless. Be careful, I've seen some places say stainless, but the screw isn't. Just compare the screw color to the band.

 

[get_real]

Thanks.....like that idea as they are easy to remove & reuse. Great shots, can’t believe how clean that engine and hull area are, wow.

 

[racerxxx]

Thanks.....like that idea as they are easy to remove & reuse. Great shots, can’t believe how clean that engine and hull area are, wow.

Thanks. Look at my my 95xp800 build thread. I just finished it. It will be at the top of the list soon. Getting ready to post some pics.