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Fuel pressure gauge

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donking

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I have a 2005 GTI RFI with 787 motor. Need to find where I can get a fuel pressure tester that will hook up in line. I have a tester but would have to cut the line to T it in. If I knew what part #'s the quick connects were I could buy them on Amazon or somewhere and make one. What are you all using to test fuel pressure?
 
Makes for an easy fast connection too.
Need help diagnosing the problem with this ski. It doesn't go over 45 mph. I'm thinking now it may be the RAVE solenoid gone bad. I have the Candoopro. There is a Rave solenoid test to activate it and when I click the button I don't hear the solenoid click. I'm going to test it soon as I get time. If the soleniod is bad, how would the ski perform. This ski sat for 7 or 8 years and I got the engine in boxes and rebuilt it. Seems low in power and low speed at 45 mph. Has 150 compression in both cylinders. I have a Tach on order and also building this fuel pressure tester to diagnose the problem. The Candoopro shows no codes.
 
Assuming the raves aren't actuating the engine won't be able to rev out to upper 6,000's, say 6,800 or so. The raves are part of the tuning of exhaust scavenging and when in normal closed position reduce the size of the exhaust ports to obtain good low speed throttle response.

Once the engine reaches a point additional breathing is necessary to accommodate gas flow the raves open and the exhaust pipe then works as a sort of resonant sonic supercharger, just like the stinger exhaust expansion pipe you probably recall on the old 2-stroke motorcycles.

Occasionally on my 951 one of the raves will gum and stick due to my lack of cleaning them (once or twice/season for my use), causing top speed to fall off considerably. It's not always immediately apparent when just one sticks, but top speed is definitely compromised.

So assuming both raves aren't actuating at all, 45mph might be the limit in your case, that seems plausible.

I believe there's an LED on the solenoid that comes on when the MPEM provides the ground path to energize the solenoid (this produces a 12v drop across the solenoid coil), you should measure 12V at both sides of the solenoid when solenoid is off and 12V only on the feed side while it's being energized by the MPEM. If there's not 12V on the feed side of the solenoid (for whatever reason), there will be no current once the MPEM provides a path to ground energize it.

I typically use a diaper pin to back-probe the connector shell while measuring voltage on the terminal connector pins.
 
I responded on my phone But don't see it here. Good explaination. I think I can test it applying 12v with the power probe and checking to see if power is coming in like you said. These are under $30 on ebay. Cheap fix. Hope I can get 55mph out of this ski.
 
Just as I suspected. The Rave solenoid does not activate. 12v is coming in with the lanyard pluged in but no click. I removed the part and gave it 12v with the power probe. Nothing. The funny thing is that the manual says it should show 30 ohms across the 2 terminals and it does. All I can say about that is its frozen up maybe. No clicking sound and you can't blow thru it either with or without 12v. Likely sitting up for 7 or 8 years has something to do with it. 1/2 of all of the bolt holes had dirt dobber nests in them to clean out before I could start the rebuild. Might be from that. Parts are on order.
 
Got the parts and the pressure looks good. The new used solenoid clicks and is work20160312_103942gauage.jpging properly. Haven't taken it out yet. tested at idle. Thanks for sending the fittings so quickly.
 

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I took it out today with the new solenoid installed and the speed increased to 50mph. The rpms were at 6850. I can live with it. Want to know if there is a better brand of spark plugs that might help? Any other tweaks? I am using a cheap set of NGK BR8ES plugs. I have read that there is not much you can do for a fuel injected ski. My 96 GTX did go a little faster. Thanks for the help.
 
Seems it's running well. Perhaps if you desire speed, an updated impeller design might help but how important can that be and what if you experience no improvement or slight loss?

NGK BR8ES is the correct plug as far as I know, I discourage switching to some other considering the engine was tuned by the factory engineering team using this plug. They did well.

I suggest keeping it as is. Inspect condition of pump but 6850 tells me it's likely good, make sure throttle butterflies are reaching full WOT travel (throttle cable adjustment) and plug ceramic insulators are a reasonable color (not soot black).

You might be thinking a platinum version would provide longer life but due to oil in the combustion process, generally 2-stroke plugs will foul before wearing out. The factory very carefully selected the correct heat range thus a hotter plug might overheat and cause piston eating detonation.

IMO
 

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I agree on the plugs. Will try a new set of the same. When I get time I will take the pump off and see if the wear ring and impeller are 100%. Throttle opens all the way.
 
You can inspect the jet pump wear ring through the rock grate from underneath, clearance around the impeller should be no more than the thickness of a dime (less is best) and the wear ring should be all there. If it's messed up you'll see high RPM and no go as the impeller either cavitates or ventilates (air leak from bilge passing through the carbon seal and rubber carbon seal holder bellows, if tension is weak from age and heat of running on trailer too much).

The wear ring will have rings cut around the inner diameter if debris such as sticks, rocks, gravel have been sucked through the pump, this widens the gap between impeller and wear ring which enables cavitation especially during acceleration as water velocity is low and suction is highest. At speed the pump is "loaded" with water pressure thus cavitation effect is lessened somewhat. So first indicator is lack of or weak, acceleration.

Sometimes the wear rings can delaminate and pieces fall off as they're caught in the impeller. You can get a good view from underneath, take a flashlight with you under there.
 
I will likely just take it out. Only a few bolts. Want to see also if the impeller is bent anywhere. I checked the oil before I installed it. That had been changed and was totally clear. There is a bit of slight lumberinig on takeoff. Wear ring might be worn some.
 
While BR8ES is the correct spark plug I have found that they foul out too easily on RFI's and I suggest dropping down one heat range to a BR7ES.
 
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