fuel line replacement?

[Normallysailing]

Hi, folks. Brand new here - just bought a GTX and an SPI, both '95. Also brand new to PWCs - our daughters made us do it after they had a blast on loaner machines on days when there was no wind. I'm working on getting over being cranky over these stupid noisy stinky things, as they might just prove themselves useful towing me and my sailboat(s) in and out of difficult locations, home after the wind drops, etc. Gimme a little time and I think I'll come around...

The story from PO is that they're both functional, but one has a severely leaky gas line, apparently a well-known problem. Is the replacement of these lines in a FAQ somewhere, esp. what tubing/fittings to use? Any tricks involved? Btw, I wrench a lot of Subaru (so I know which end to hold), but I'm not really a two-stroke guy (yet).

One other thing - apparently the aftermarket-from-Amazon-prolly-Chinese-crap deadman switch caps won't stay on. Is this a case in which OEM really is best?

thx.mch.

 

[AKnarrowback]

Replace the gas lines ASAP with a good automotive grade fuel line. Leaking gas in a confined area is a time bomb waiting to happen. Do not let your girls ride them again until that problem is corrected! You don't need fuel injection rated line, I got mine at napa for .80 a foot.

Get an original seadoo cap if you are having troubles. As a temporary fix try putting a wrap of electrical tape around the post to snug things up. A little loose is better than too tight. I bought a new oem cap and it broke the end of the switch off when I tested it, the switch plastic was brittle after 24 years.

The Seadoo Carb Rebuild Thread

Go to this link and read up on carbs and the green goo the old grey lines can leave. This is the best walk through for carbs you will find anywhere. Since the machines are new to you I would suggest taking the time to open them up and just see if any buildup, foreign material or rust is in them.

 

[Normallysailing]

Cool, thanks. That was really my question: Is there any reason that grey plastic stuff is used rather than a normal automotive fuel line. Since you say no, I can get at it replacing it forthwith.

First I just have to get my bearings inside these things, starting with unbolting that black box (presumably the air cleaner) and getting a peek at the carb. I'll mos def take a look at that thread.

Much appreciated.

 

[AKnarrowback]

PM'd you.

The grey line is the original oem line and deteriorates over time causing carb problems and burning up motors. Thats why I suggest reading the carb rebuild thread. Replace the lines in both machines regardless of any leaks, the internal unseen damage is a problem.

 

[Normallysailing]

Hmmm... never had to deal with those screwy little hose clamps. Are pliers for them readily available? Rather not get all grindy on this thing (yet).

 

[jhanratt]

Just did my 1998 GTI. The guys on the forum said buy 25' I didn't think it was possible but I bought a 25' box and I have about 3' left. I did one hose at a time so I didn't mix anything up. The fuel selctor switch comes apart from the outside. Remove little rubber center cap in knob. Remove phillips screw. remove knob. Remove big plastic nut from under the knob. Selector comes out the back (under hood.) I left the fuel inlet in place and did my hose clamps in place. fortunately somebody replaced my oteker clamps with tridon gear clamps. The Grey stuff is 6mm. I used 1/4 inch (6.3mm) fits good.

good luck.

 

[jhanratt]

I used a screw driver which fit between the ears and pried them apart by wiggling back and forth. GENTLY. old plastic is brittle! I bought a 12 pack of hose clamps and used them all. bank on at least that many. Some of my hose clamps were already gear clamps.

 

[Normallysailing]

I figured the brute-force-and-ignorance approach would probably get them off, but I'm a tool queen and wouldn't at all mind having the right pliers for removing them. I'll certainly replace them with regular gear clamps, though. So those are called "Oteker" clamps, huh?

[edit]

Oh, I see - "Oetiker". Looks like pliers are readily available... waitaminute... I might have a pair of those things leftover from working on my old slurpee machine.

 

[Normallysailing]

Hey, cool - I have a pair of Knipex 1099 pliers for crimping these. But they're for the single-use clamps and not the removeable version that's used on these fuel lines. Where's the removal tool for them?

 

[mikidymac]

The easiest is to use the good high quality zipties with the metal locking tab.

 

[Normallysailing]

Sure - I'm an EE, so I actually have a Panduit wire tie gun for installing them. That's one of my very favourite tools of all time, because it tensions and cuts with one pull of the trigger. Best of all, it never leaves one of those nasty little stubs that slash your wrists any chance they get.

 

[mikidymac]

Sure - I'm an EE, so I actually have a Panduit wire tie gun for installing them. That's one of my very favourite tools of all time, because it tensions and cuts with one pull of the trigger. Best of all, it never leaves one of those nasty little stubs that slash your wrists any chance they get.

They are awesome! Been using one for the fuel lines on these since the 90's and it is worth every expensive penny.

 

[Normallysailing]

Removal: Looks like it's a Simple Matter Of pinching the Oetiker clamps with the pliers (which won't slip off like needlenose) and poking an awl or pick into the little tang to lift it off. I'll keep 'em in the junkbox, but I like the common serviceability of screw (gear) clamps.