Fuel Gauge Fix Question

[Biffitis]

Alright, so I read this post (http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...ght-on-when-tank-is-full-(fuel-baffle-sender)) with regards to fixing an inop. fuel gauge. Removed the baffle, but when I cut it open I see no sign of the suspected "F1 Fuse".
Is this not the same for most Seadoo's? Mine's a 97 Challenger single engine. Below are the pics of what I found when I opened up the baffle...

 

[Tacomatrx450]

Photo 2 is the back of the circuit board. Photo 1 u need to cut more towards the top. Nice cuts though

 

[Biffitis]

I dunno. I can clearly see up to the top of the circuit board and I can't see anything that looks fuse-ish. But, no harm, I'll cut some more away...

 

[LouDoo]

This maybe a dumb question, have you replaced the float? I've found usually the float has sunk or lost the magnets. If you need a new float order the new molded style.

Lou

 

[Biffitis]

No such thing as a dumb question, Lou. Just dumb answers... The magnets are in place, and while I haven't checked to see if the float actually "floats" in gasoline, I'm getting an infinite ohm reading on the circuit board which suggests there's an open in the circuit. However, I still don't see the fuse...

 

[Biffitis]

Fixed!

Well I don't know why I'm surprised, but my fix was NOT one of the common/easy fixes found on the forum. If it wasn't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all... :banghead:

Turns out that there is/was a broken connection between where the pink/black wire goes into the sending unit and where it fastens to the circuit board. I cut open the top portion of the baffle and had no continuity between the plug end and the board terminal (see pics below).


So, I drilled a small hole into the resin in the top of the baffle.



I then ran a new wire into the baffle, connected it to the board and then cut the pink/blk wire where it used to go into the baffle and connected it to the newly inserted (red in the pics) wire.



And when all was said and done I had a resistance reading.



Pictures are during the testing process, so don't yell at me for the lack of solder, twisted connections and dirty work area.

Hope this maybe helps someone else...

Edit: And as if that wasn't enough, I just checked my float for buoyancy... and it sank. Glad I caught that before it all went back together.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

To the mods...let's put this in the "How to" section.

Great job of dissection of the tubes

 

[ski-d00]

nice job but you should do the F1 fuse fix while you're there, the boat baffles are the same as the skis. it's there, it's just very small.

 

[Biffitis]

Honestly, if I could find the F1 fuse rest assured I'd replace it. But I looked all over that board and it is NOT there. Looking at the other pics it should be on the component side of the board in the middle right above on of the reed switches. I can see all the switches but no fuse. I'm wondering if it's on the edge of the board under one of the tubes where it can't be seen, or accessed.

If you buy a new baffle are they still using the F1 fuse, or have they eliminated it because it was so problematic? Perhaps my baffle was replaced already? I dunno...

 

[ski-d00]

yes, they are still using the F1 fuse on the new ones and I haven't seen one yet that doesn't have it but you never know. it is very small, about 1/16" in size and about 1/32" in height(almost flat with the board) on the component side above the magnetic switches, you won't see it unless you drill a 1" hole 1.25" down from the outer top ledge, then you'll see it. and you won't have to patch the hole just leave it open.