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Fuel Float in Baffle missing Magnet.....

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vallentinerocks

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When I got this 95 XP, the gas gauge always reads empty so today i got around to pulling the baffle out of the tank. bottom screen cap was attached and no holes and not dirty. top it off and got the brown foam float out, and it has no magnet attached, nor was it inside the baffle.

where can i get a replacement fuel float (only) besides Ebay and will that redesigned white plastic one with two magnets work im my baffle?

I cant check ohm readings without a magnet on the float. does anyone know if you have to use a certain resistance of magnet to get to read on the baffle circuit board? Ive tried a weak magnet piece off the back on a frig frame moving inside along the inner baffle board but it doesnt change anything. its just a piece of tiny flexable magnet strip.
 
A replacement float will most likely fix your problem. The old design has been discontinued, so where ever you buy it, it should be the new molded design.

By the time you pay freight its probably going to be cheaper at your local dealer. You can get it from a sponcer of the site, Parker Yamaha.

Lou
 
i verified on this site or pwc that those fuel floats do indeed work in the pre 96 baffles. i called the closest dealer to me but they dont stock them so i ordered it from Parker online. They sell most of everything and prices not too bad, paid 60 bucks shipped today for the new fuel float, new NGK wires, some gaskets and i needed some screws that cant be taken out inside the carbs without extracting them out, which i will do next week when i get everything else in.

cleaned my fuel selector today even though it was probably working properly anyway and one of my fuel lines to it (the main) was completely off cuz i didnt get the clamp screwed on when i changed all the stock grey fuel lines.. which im sure was putting air leak straight into the fuel system. also, i verified my gauge is working by jumping the wires. light went off and bars came on. Im hoping the float takes care of the gas gauge so i dont have to do the operation on that notorius F1 fuse on the baffle circuit board that goes bad. I just cant check the ohm range until i get the magnets on the new float in there.
 
Good to see you're making progress. Parker Yamaha is a first class company, good people. I have replaced a few of these floats, maybe I've been lucky, but the float has always fixed the fuel gauge problem.

BTW, I use a good quality cable tie (Panduit Brand) for fuel hose clamps, I think they work better than the metal ones, easier to install and remove.

Lou
 
I have the same issue. I pulled the baffle and the float is missing. Also the bottom of the baffle is open ended, I can see the reserve and the regular pick up lines as well as the digital board. Is the bottom end supposed to be closed up with something? I have only seen it open in pictures but how would the float stay in like this?
 
I have the same issue. I pulled the baffle and the float is missing. Also the bottom of the baffle is open ended, I can see the reserve and the regular pick up lines as well as the digital board. Is the bottom end supposed to be closed up with something? I have only seen it open in pictures but how would the float stay in like this?

The float is Sea Doo part #295500438 and has been redesigned. There is a post with good info on this forum - see the 4th post in the thread for good info. http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...ight-on-when-tank-is-full-(fuel-baffle-sender)

This link has a good price but shipping adds quite a bit. http://www.partforyamaha.com/pages/OemParts?aribrand=BRP_SEA#/s/BRP|~SEA//295500438/1

The fuel pickup tube aka fuel sender has a bottom piece with a filter on the end and is Sea Doo part #275500397. Here's a link for that piece: http://www.partforyamaha.com/pages/oemparts?aribrand=BRP_SEA#/s/BRP|~SEA//275500397/1
 
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yep. the new design fuel float from Parker fixed my fuel gauge... well its reads 2 bars but i think tank is half full.. but the fuel light is now off and im getting a reading on it.. Also, If I leave my fuel selector on the Reserve tank, will it use gas as if it was on Main?? reason is, ive cleaned and inspected the fuel selector and it functionally checks out on Main, reserve and off if i blow thru them, but I have not been sucessful getting fuel up to the carbs on the Main setting for some reason. Maybe just havent tried enough. but fuel will draw up on reserve. Is there a possible problem with the main up in the baffle. if i blow back into the tank thru disconnected like before carbs set on Main, it will blow into the tank so its not clogged or anything.
 
I had the same problem after doing the fuel system. It turned out to be the fuel selector valve, probably my fault because I used carb. cleaner to clean it. If you take the valve apart there is a rubber washer inside, mine was deformed. Anyway I replaced the valve, cost about 35.00 on EBay, it's been fine since, that's been a couple of years ago.

Lou
 
So, still having issues with the '93.
I did pull the baffle and the whole gas tank, did the repair with the fuse inside the baffle. Actually I got a replacement baffle off ebay as I had the old cork float with no magnet and no cover on the bottom. Drained the tank and replaced it with the newer repaired baffle. NOTHING!
Also, my speedometer sensor was replaced and no luck. This was brand new one I just bought.

Is there something electrical that could be causing this? I checked for continuity with the lines (basically no cracks in the lines). All fuses look good in the fuse box. What could I be missing here?

And of course, it is bogging down at about 3/4 throttle. Any suggestions? Only fuel thing i have not done is clean out the rear carburator or do a carb overhaul yet. I can't quite figure out how to get to the 4 screws to remove the carbs to get to the rear one.
 
Test it with a volt meter to insure it is working properly. There was a thread in here somewhere detailing the electrical values & how to test it. It may be a relay or something causing your problem.
 
I vouch for Parker Yamaha too

I have purchased many times from them, and they have been always top notch.
It's a toss up on shipping for small items vs local dealer. a part that's $11 + shipping cost $21 at my local dealer, and the local dealer still has to order.... So I bundle with other spares and get it from Parker...
 
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