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For all newbies to pwc

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woooowww,,, man did i smack the hornets nest with a"BIG saltwater stiick" lmao,, dennis dude wasnt beating up saltwater riding jet skis,, before you blow a fuse,,,go back and start from the begining,,, the thread was started for new people like me that have no experience or direction when buying their first ski, or boat,,,jesus get a grip,,, but it has been a good debate,,with most of the members,, and if you would like i can send you close up pics of the bolts seized up to the top of the shoulders ,,but you know what,,what would be the point your just looking for something to piss about,,,so before you make statements like that,,, get your facts correct,,again, if you would read the first post ,,,it wasnt anything about pissing on saltwater riding ,,,it was about people selling jet skis to inexperieced buyers that dont know what to look for,,,when a boat or any other watercraft has been exposed to saltwater without being maintained properly,,and before you suggest "the one who said that the saltwater worked its way all the up the headbolts? that would be me, and if you want to debate on that i would be glad to send you a piece of the head with the bolts seized up,and yes all the way up the bolt to the shoulder i have one that i cut away, a picture says a thousand words,,,,,then you will be more informed about something that you didnt experience,,,before you suggest that they were telling tall fish tales,,, lol anyways for the most part,,,everyone has the right to their own beleifs about either fresh or salt,,but for us newbies,,,that care to wade through all the mudd,,,i have learned alot from the members posting common sense remedies so they or we can learn without having to go through what i have.
 
riding in a lake is no substitute at all for flushing a ski, must flush it on a hose, reason being is the last the ski runs, is where -- at the boat ramp where all the sand, dirt , etc is all stirred up from being used all day, people walking in the water, etc.
fresh or saltwater use, needs to be run a minute or so once you are home in the driveway -- you do as you want to, but sediments kill motors because they lay in the same places, they build up and crystallize, over and over again ....

I hear you, but in my personal experience, The only time I have ever had a trace of sediment in any of machines I have owned is when they were beached. I have taken every one of them apart to some level without finding a single particle or contaminate of any kind following a lake douching.

That's not to say I haven't seen a ski literally clogged with sediment that caused cooling system failure, nor am I saying that I didn't flush my machines, because at times I did, but I would trust a quick dip in the lake just fine and not lose a wink over it. I have access to a private launch, that I have used for years. Tuned carbs on it, tested for leaks and it certainly washes out the corrosive traits of salt water. Pre 95, to flush a ski was a real pain too, pumping fresh glacier water through the entire system was very effective. Out of all the skis I have owned, I have not once experienced a salt water related failure and I did most of my riding on the Puget Sound. I haven't even experienced a broken bolt that wasn't part of the support system for the tuned pipe on a 787/951.

But trust me, no one appreciated the post 95 flush setups more than I. The early flush kits just stunk.
 
My wife gripes and complains about having to flush each trip but after hearing from you Robert and seeing what you had to deal with, I'm ok with pissing her off and doing the job right! She thinks it's overkill and too time consuming while we are on vacation but I don't care. It's getting done and thanks to OldSchool I won't be beaching mine ever again.

Here is the fluid film link...it even comes in gallon size buckets!
product_sm_can.png
http://www.fluid-film.com/products/

And the Salt Away
http://www.saltawayproducts.com/

My setup:
http://www.saltawayproducts.com/KitPage.htm
 
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Sometimes you have to beach it Man!

Just make sure you kill it before getting too shallow with some momentum. Then when you drag it back out, in deeper water, give the ski a shake up and down to remove anything that might have rested in the propulsion system, give her a good shove, hop on and fire it up in the deepest water you can.

lol.. the day the HX came out, I took off work to test the first one in the area. Had all my friends out there and everything. Pushed the machine off the beach for the first ride and sucked a rock within 3 seconds of starting it. The embarrassment... good thing for me I had tools with me.
 
heck yea, , I will be ordering both of those today,,, and trust me on this,,, the hours I spent on getting these back running,
with ME FLUSH FLUSH FLUSH
 
My wife gripes and complains about having to flush each trip but after hearing from you Robert and seeing what you had to deal with, I'm ok with pissing her off and doing the job right! She thinks it's overkill and too time consuming while we are on vacation but I don't care. It's getting done and thanks to OldSchool I won't be beaching mine ever again.

Here is the fluid film link...it even comes in gallon size buckets!
View attachment 21146
http://www.fluid-film.com/products/

And the Salt Away
http://www.saltawayproducts.com/

My setup:
http://www.saltawayproducts.com/KitPage.htm

From the Salt-away web site:
Just connect the Salt-Away Mixing Unit to your flush-out device with the valve turned to "Salt-Away". Turn on the water, then the engine, and flush for 20-30 seconds. Shut down the engine, then turn the Mixing Unit to ‘Off", leaving Salt-Away inside your engine. Do not rinse the engine with fresh water. The residue left inside will protect the engine from corroding. Please follow the manufacturer's instructions for flushing. However, it is not necessary to flush for longer than 30 seconds. Salt-Away completes the job in that amount of time.

1. Is this the way you guys flush your motor with this product?

2. What is the cheapest place to buy the kit in the Bradenton, FL. area
 
That sounds like a great setup. Reading through a post or two, I have seen customer boats with head bolts and passages blocked as described. Very difficult to work with at times and a situation that meant engine replacement. I suppose that the owner still needs to do the process, but something like that kit could have saved thousands in repair when I serviced these machines.

Before places like SBT were providing remans, a short block 580 would run 2000 dollars. With engines damaged badly by salt, it was the only option because getting some of them apart was time consuming only to find that the engine wasn't worth rebuilding anyways.

Cool stuff.
 
LOL! wow I wasn't looking for something to piss about and I meant no ill to you! and I don't deny salt water can be extremely corrosive! nor am I debating the fact that what you said happened did not happen I was just saying that the reason it happened was not just because the ski was used in salt water! all I was saying was if a ski/boat/whatever is used in salt water does not mean you should steer clear of it as many people posted! I've lived by the shore my whole life and have used my skis and boat in only saltwater and all are fine and look brand new in the engine compartment it just takes a little time and know how the properly flush and clean them after each use and that's all I was trying to say!!! so sorry if I offended you! I'm going to go try to get a grip now! LOL!
 
From the Salt-away web site:
Just connect the Salt-Away Mixing Unit to your flush-out device with the valve turned to "Salt-Away". Turn on the water, then the engine, and flush for 20-30 seconds. Shut down the engine, then turn the Mixing Unit to ‘Off", leaving Salt-Away inside your engine. Do not rinse the engine with fresh water. The residue left inside will protect the engine from corroding. Please follow the manufacturer's instructions for flushing. However, it is not necessary to flush for longer than 30 seconds. Salt-Away completes the job in that amount of time.

1. Is this the way you guys flush your motor with this product?

2. What is the cheapest place to buy the kit in the Bradenton, FL. area

Well, I still follow the Seadoo rinse procedure of motor on, then water on, water off, then motor off, but yeah, leave the Salt Away valve on the whole time. I was letting it run until the blue faded a good bit before shutting it down but I think I will just let the suds discharge from the exhaust for a minute or so, then unscrew the bowl and pore that into a spray bottle for the bilge.
 
just bought a candoo pro scanner yesterday, hooked it up today and gave it a test run to see what it was all about,, really cool new toy,, has a lot of features, it was fairly easy to use,, i got the home user version that allows you to use up to 4 serial numbers, good software and the scanner is built well the one for sea doos is good from 98 - 2013 carb and di, the really cool thing is it has realtime feature that allows you to watch the engines performance ,,,and allows you to test the sensors,,rave valves beepers and disply center,, test the pump,,but not pressures,, you can purge the oil system , and control the both the air and fuel injectors,, shut down the cylinders one at a time,, and shut down and test the coil and can reprogram keys,check the fault history and clear codes, adjust the tps and more,,, i had a lot of fun with it today,,,i would suggest it to anyone that does their own maintenance and repairs,,,oh and dennis i was just yankin your chain dude, lol
 
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