First time pump/impeller removal prep

[door54]

Hello all,
Getting ready to dig into my 07 RXT and looking for input on preperation prior to disassembly. I discovered a failed/torn impeller boot assembly (oem $10) and am not interested at all in OMG shop rate to fix the problem. Besides, Im looking forward to this. I've purchased synthetic grease and oil and the boot is on order.
I don't see much ado about removing the external components, my curiosity starts with the impeller/shaft removal and disassembly. I have spent a fair amount of time searching for archival posts, and either overlooked them or couldn't find any. Any experienced tips would be appreciated. Oh and any "while you're in there you might as well do this" suggestions would be helpful as well
Thanks

 

[KK40384]

While you're in there replace the wear ring since its a cheap part

As far as pump removal goes, that's pretty easy. First steering linkage and reverse gate linkage. The the OPAS linkage and water hose on top of the pump (don't forget to re-attach it). Now all you have left is the 4 nuts holding the pump on. Remove those and pull the pump out being careful not to lose the washers. Removing the impeller from the pump is pretty easy. Set the impeller removal tool securely in a vise and place the impeller on it (driveshaft side of course) remove the nose cone and then use a 12mm allen socket to losen the impeller.

If you decide to change the wear ring just place the pump housing with old wear in a freezer for about an hr. The old ring should then slide out by hand almost. You may have to muscle it a bit. Now place the new ring in the freezer for about the same time while the pump is coming back to room temp and reverse the process. Use a 2x4 on top of the new wear ring to GENTLY hammer it into place. Again GENTLY drive it home.

Now reverse the process on the pump and you should be good.

 

[KK40384]

Oh and that boot is just threaded on. You should be able to take it off by hand.

 

[door54]

Hey KK40384,
Thanks for the response and input. Your avatar provides me with a sense of security. A coulple questions come to mind-
1. Once I'm at the point of shaft removal does it simply slide out?
2. Do I need to be concearned with shaft deflection when the pump is dislodged/removed. Any fluid loss?
3. You mention an impeller removal tool. Is that a task specific tool or a "McGyver" tool? Any links on site for this tool anyone?
4. I like the freezer tip. Makes sense.

 

[KK40384]

1. Yes it just slides out. On the way back in all you need to do is spin the impeller with a long screwdriver or socket extension to align the splines on the drive shaft.

2. No and no

3. It's an actual tool. Google "seadoo impeller removal tool". eBay also has them. Somewhere around $25 if I recal correctly.

4. That trick makes life so much easier.

 

[KK40384]

Here's the link to one on eBay for ya

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/view...0612375534&index=8&nav=SEARCH&nid=98834659542

 

[door54]

Thanks for the link. I dont know how you pulled the rabbit out of the hat . I spent quite a bit of time checking out the Solis product line and all of its freekin peripherals and never did lock down on the RXT version of that anywhere else. Thanks again

 

[door54]

By the way, I tend to remember additional questions after I hang up, or I'm driving down the road, or after my last post-
Are the specfic Loctite call outs essential...? No problem if they are... I just dont know if the SeaDoo guys are more anal than I am. We either follow the letter of the law or the spirit of the law. I'm game for either.
Thanks

 

[KK40384]

As far as the loctite is concerned, I didn't see any residue on anything I took apart on mine. It's been taken apart by the dealer for warranty and service before so it may have been there at one point. I've never used it on any pump parts before on my current ski and my old one (2003 GTX/DI) and never had any bolts or nuts come loose.

 

[door54]

Hey KK40384,
Thanks again for continued responces... a few more thoughts

1. I detected trace amounts of rust on the shaft and I'll clean it up when I have access. Do you use, or know what choice of anti corrosion spray/product the forum favors?
2. I plan on an oil/filter change as well, and have come accross several posts on the subject. Do you do your own,and if so what type of oil purge pump did you settle on? Or do you have a recomendation?

 

[KK40384]

I have a simple vaccum pump (hand operated). Just make sure you suck it all out then crank it over while holding the throttle wide open to prevent it from starting. You can also unplug the coils if that makes you feel more comfortable as an aded measure. After doing that suck out the rest of the oil and replace with the same amount you sucked out or till the oil is halfway up the dipstick (between the low and full line). Be sure not to overfill it as it decreases performance. When changing the filter just make sure to replace the O rings too.

I haven't had to use any anti corrosion spray yet so I don't have much advice on that but I'd imagine any marine anti corrosion spray should do the trick.

 

[superheropunk]

I am about to do this as well and found this guide that may be helpful.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?30720-How-To-Changing-Your-Wear-Ring

 

[door54]

Well after waiting for much too long for the FedEx circus to leave town...my shopping and tool list complete, I finally got to tear into this pump removal... wear ring and impeller boot replacement...and oil change.
Like you guys said....pretty simple, pretty easy. Too easy on the pump removal though....it literally slid right off, I was expecting more of a fight. All looks good though...large 'O' ring looks like new...bailer rings clean and round....it all looks good....However...
This impeller is not coming off without a fight.
I have my pump planted on my impeller removal tool, which is planted in an oversized vise, which is lag bolted in a 6x24 glulam (laminated beam) which aint movin by the way...and Im crawling all over this setup like some Looney Tunes character gone mad 'cause after a full day of 109 here in Vegas..... I am NOT seeing this clearly any more..... And I want this $%#@&^%!! Frisbee of an impeller outta my pump... Sooo which way guys...Breaker bar clockwise?.....Or Breaker bar counterclockwise?

ps. If the shop manual provides that little tidbit...Ive missed it

 

[KK40384]

Normal threads, grab a breaker bar, eat your wheaties and get to it. Mine was a pain to get loose also. If that doesn't work a little heat to melt the loktite will help.

 

[Michael211_2000]

You can take that impeller tool to a muffler shop (or anybody that can weld) and have it welded onto a 2" hitch draw bar... then insert the modified draw bar into your hitch. It works darned well!

Also if you're using an L shaped allen wrench, screw that... get a socket that fits the allen wrench, then use a reciprocating saw-zaw (Craftsman makes them, rechargeable 19.2V) and cut a 2 inch piece off the end of that L allen wrench, JB weld it in the socket and now you can use a proper 1/2" breaker bar on the impeller! Works like a champ!

- Michael

 

[door54]

Thanks guys

I realize this is one of those topics that's been on the carosel for years, but I was not succsesful at finding a thread, that contained a post that clarified which way ya spin the goofy 12mm hex nut. For all you noobies.....it's COUNTER CLOCKWISE. For those of you lookin to jump into that pump removal/impeller removal job.... and have been putting it off....Jump in. With the right tools its really EZ!!

The other problem I had was lack of leverage. Once I realized that a 1/2 drive w/ 12mm hex bit was not happening (did I mention it was 109, and by then I was fried?) I discovered my breaker bar grew legs. soooo...McGuyver Time. I found a 3' piece of 3/4" pipe that slid over the end of my drive like it was made for it.

My impeller saw the pipe and gave up pretty quick....my wifes impeller smiled and gave me the finger (figures) As tight as I had the impeller tool wedged into that HD vise the whole dang thing kept shifting on me. All told it finally broke free which leads me to the next item.

My pump literally slid right off and my impeller came loose with a tug on that pipe. My wifes pump and impeller came off as I imagined they would... (being removed for the first time since they were manufactured)...a little tough.
When we bought them 'new' wifeys had zero hours on it, mine had 10. The dealer told me his story on how that came to be, and after getting up close and personal with the unit (mint condition externally on the 10 hr unit) I wanted to believe his story, so I did. Now I don't.
I am the ONLY person that has ridden the '10 hr unit'. I'm aware of injesting some small stuff on rare occasion (the Colorado River is short on sand and long on rocks of all shapes and sizes) and there is NO WAY my butt was in the saddle when my impeller took the hit I discovered once I pulled it out. The boot was distorted and pushed a bit back onto the impeller. The four leding edges were pretty rough, but all four trailing edges were rough and a bit bent. The wear ring needed replacement as well, The vibration I've experienced since day one has been cavitation.

The RXT's have been a thrill ride and I didn't know any better to realize that the 'inherent vibration' was more than that. I just figured that 0-70 mph came with vibrating. It appears I was able to perform corrective action on the impeller edges. Hopefully this retrofit will smooth things out. If not...SOLAS baby,...SOLAS
The oil changes will be today, And hopeflly I'll put 'em in the water tomorrow.

I'll report back on the results.


Thanks to you all that took the time to post to this thread and share your knowledge !

 

[Michael211_2000]

As tight as I had the impeller tool wedged into that HD vise the whole dang thing kept shifting on me. All told it finally broke free which leads me to the next item.

It is highly advisable to put some anti-seize on the hex-bolt threads before re-installing the impeller! The engine rotation will keep it tight.... whatever you do, DO NOT put any loctite on that hex-bolt's threads!

What are you doing about the damaged impeller? It sounds pretty messed up to me, I wouldn't re-use it were it in my RXT... the Solas impellers are soooo much nicer than the OEM impellers!

And yup, the dealer stuck it to you my friend.

- Michael

 

[door54]

Man.... I wish I'd dicovered this forum years ago !

70 hours. 70 hours of vibrations that I learned to accept as 'part of the package' are now GONE. 70 hours of not liking to ride at certain speed/RPM ranges 'cause it was just plain annoying...are GONE. What a difference. I could tell as soon as I started it after I completed the tasks...Wear Ring...Impeller Boot...Grease...Oil/Filter Change...Impeller Edge Tuning and Bend Repair...It PURRED.... high and dry on a trailer with no hose hook up....PURRING. I honestly had to step back and look at the hull ID #s to make sure it was mine and not wifeys that I had just started. WOW.

In the water on the River yesterday, I didnt know what to expect...but it sure was GREAT.....I was happy and pissed off at the same time. Improved throttle response, hole shot, litterally dumping it 180 on a dime, burying the stern, and exploding out of it...I cant wait to put some air improvements and some bolt-ons on this machine.
Better late than never I suppose....to ride it the way it was designed to be run.


Thanks again for those of you who took the time to help and share your knowledge.

ps. next up for repair...my hull...there was this boulder the size of a one car garage that I was able to pass over headin upstream....but downstream...well...friggin current...

 

[Michael211_2000]

70 hours of vibrations that I learned to accept as 'part of the package' are now GONE. 70 hours of not liking to ride at certain speed/RPM ranges 'cause it was just plain annoying...are GONE. What a difference.

Cool beans!

Fill your ride plate bolt hole recesses next... they're a drag, literrally. It's cheap and easy and improves performance noticabley IMHO.

- Michael

 

[door54]

I'm down for that !
I'm now a big believer that small subtle changes/fixes in the right places can pay big dividends

Thanks

 

[KK40384]

Cool beans!

Fill your ride plate bolt hole recesses next... they're a drag, literrally. It's cheap and easy and improves performance noticabley IMHO.

- Michael

This plus blocking the OPAS paddles in the "up" position netted me 3-4 mph on GPS

 

[door54]

I recall a thread or two where you discussed the process...twine, duct tape, epoxy and sand it?...Could you refresh? I looked for the threads, but couldn't locate..

As for the OPAS mod, I remember a thread where a piece of pvc pipe was cut lengthwise and slid over the shaft + 2 zip ties. Question is... apply the mod with the paddles in ready/trailer position...(1" shim) or manually compress the paddle vertically that extra inch and go with a 2" shim?

 

[red2blue]

I recall a thread or two where you discussed the process...twine, duct tape, epoxy and sand it?...Could you refresh? I looked for the threads, but couldn't locate..

As for the OPAS mod, I remember a thread where a piece of pvc pipe was cut lengthwise and slid over the shaft + 2 zip ties. Question is... apply the mod with the paddles in ready/trailer position...(1" shim) or manually compress the paddle vertically that extra inch and go with a 2" shim?

I went with the 2" up position.