First time jet boat ower, oil filter question

[st0k3d]

Hey guys I am new to the forum and the boating scene. I just picked up a 2001 Sportster LE in good conditon for $3700 with a trailer. I am performing some maintenance before attempting to take her out.

So far I have...

Compression test - 150psi on both cylinders (sweet)

New fuel filter

Ordered RAVE valve gaskets to take apart and clean valves just in case they are dirty.

ATTEMPTED to do new oil filter... here is the deal.

The line between the filter and the oil pump is way to short. In addition the filter that I got has a bit smaller fittings on it than the one I am replacing (I ordered the right part number too, and it came in a OEM parts bag..). Lastly you cannot even see this line as the exhaust pipe is in the the way blocking everything so you cannot see what you are doing. I tried to get everything together and ended up just making a mess of everything getting oil all over the place.

So I went and got some silicone line that fits the filter properly and am going to attempt to replace the oil line tomorrow (blind as you cant see the hose, working hanging upside down).

My question is once I replace this line, I want to make sure there is no air trapped in it as I don't want to vapor lock the pump and blow the motor.

What is the proper way to bleed this oil line?

I am looking at the service manual and it is saying to open the bleed screw until oil comes out? How the heck are you supposed to do that with the exhaust pipe in the way of everything? Is this necessary?

Somehow a 2 minute filter change has turned into a messy ordeal that I fear will lead to me having to remove the exhaust pipe (which appears that I have to remove the carb's as well to get to one nut...

HELP me out here I am frustrated. Sorry for the wall of text.

 

[Dr Honda]

Welcome.


First... you can't use silicon hose with that oil. It will swell up, and fall apart.

Second, there isn't a good way to change the filter. It always makes a mess. BUT... I recommend using a hose clamp to pinch off the feed hose to keep it from dumping the oil everywhere.


Once you get the filter on... there is a screw in the face of the pump. You remove it, and the oil will flow out the hole. Once you get all the air out... you should be good to go.

As a final note... whenever I service the oil system... I run 1 oz per gallon oil, back in the main fuel tank. It's not enough oil to foul the plugs, but it will save the engine if there is still an air bubble in it.


OK... as a final, final note... make sure to use a synthetic API-TC oil ONLY in that boat. If you try to use a TC-w3 oil... you will roast the engine.

 

[st0k3d]

Welcome.


First... you can't use silicon hose with that oil. It will swell up, and fall apart.

Second, there isn't a good way to change the filter. It always makes a mess. BUT... I recommend using a hose clamp to pinch off the feed hose to keep it from dumping the oil everywhere.


Once you get the filter on... there is a screw in the face of the pump. You remove it, and the oil will flow out the hole. Once you get all the air out... you should be good to go.

As a final note... whenever I service the oil system... I run 1 oz per gallon oil, back in the main fuel tank. It's not enough oil to foul the plugs, but it will save the engine if there is still an air bubble in it.


OK... as a final, final note... make sure to use a synthetic API-TC oil ONLY in that boat. If you try to use a TC-w3 oil... you will roast the engine.

Thank you very much.

I will struggle to find this bleed screw blind somehow.

There was silicone hose on there already, which is why I went to use that again. Do you know what the OEM hose is made of? Should I use just regular rubber hose?

I will make sure I use the right oil. I have contemplated draining the old stuff as I am not sure what is in there right now, although if it hasn't blown up yet it must be OK...

 

[Dr Honda]

The OEM hose is a high density vinyl. (Chem proof) Tygon will also work well. More or less... Silicon hose is not good for petroleum products. It's for alcohol.

Let me make it easy for you..... here's your bleed screw.

 

[st0k3d]

Thank you very much for that... now the issue is how the hell do you get to the bleed screw?

It is under the exhaust manifold, sandwiched in between the engine and the fuel tank... couldn't be in a worse spot..

I been hanging upside down like a monkey trying to get in there to even see it so i can do it blind... I even tried sticking my phone back there to snap a picture with no luck really...

 

[st0k3d]

Here is a picture, apologize for the blurriness. I think my oil injection pump is different than in that picture. Boat is a 2001 Sportster LE

From what I can tell I guess that area with the arrow would be the bleeder, which appears to be a bolt? If it wasn't such a nightmare to get back there this would be so damn simple

 

[st0k3d]

Here is a picture of the filter I got part number 275000051, which now supercedes to 275000052.

Look at the inlet size difference. I wonder if the one on the boat (larger inlet) was a 52 filter.

The one I got is a 6mm inlet, the one on there was a 8mm which matched the larger bore oil line.

 

[Dr Honda]

Yep... they only have one filter now, and it's fine. Just get a screw type hose clamp. THat will keep it from leaking.

And yes... your arrow is the bleed. You don't have to remove it totally. Most of the time, you can loosen it, and the air will slowly come out. It's a small bolt, so don't break it when you tighten it.

 

[st0k3d]

Yep... they only have one filter now, and it's fine. Just get a screw type hose clamp. THat will keep it from leaking.

And yes... your arrow is the bleed. You don't have to remove it totally. Most of the time, you can loosen it, and the air will slowly come out. It's a small bolt, so don't break it when you tighten it.

Thank you Dr!!!!

 

[st0k3d]

So I replaced the oil line and filter today with some Tygon line I got from Mcmaster Carr.

We burped all air out of the line, but when we cracked open the bleeder no oil came out of it, if some did it was very little. I tried to blow air with my mouth into the tank but it didn't do anything.

Any ideas? I am afraid it is vapor locked. I am going to pour some oil into the gas as a precautionary measure.

 

[LouDoo]

Remove the spark plug boot and ground them. Turn the engine over a few times just enough the get the oil flowing. Try bleeding again.

Lou

 

[Dr Honda]

yep... what he said.


BUT... if oil wasn't coming out the bleed port... then it may be clogged.

 

[st0k3d]

I am going to climb back in there tonight and give it a go again... Ill cry if its friggen clogged. I doubt it this motor seems healthy, if it was clogged it wouldn't run the way it does.

 

[Mikes88Stang]

Im in the same position, cracked the bleed screw and nothing. Im going to bump the starter now ant try again. How did you correct this?

Nothing when bumping the starter. This was with the oil cable off, so this should be full on. I was able to squeeze above the pump and get oil out. So, I pulled the oil cap just to be sure it was not the check valve. I may have seen a small amount of oil flowing, but nothing major. I am assuming with the bleeder all the way out, the oil flow should be very visible.

 

[st0k3d]

I ended up just letting it ride. I have used the boat about 5-10 times since than, so far so good. She runs nice.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

yep... what he said.


BUT... if oil wasn't coming out the bleed port... then it may be clogged.

If the oil filter was in backwards, would that prevent oil from going to the pump?

I just bled mine yesterday and then oil flowed quickly to the pump. Now the bigger line off the same double elbow took a while (overnight) to flow to the motor RV area. But then the trailer was tilted all the way down in front. ......Thanks Tony for the tips.

 

[nammer]

If the oil filter was in backwards, would that prevent oil from going to the pump?

I'm wondering the same thing, it appears my mechanic put the oil filter on backwards, it has probably run about 3 hours since