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First time 4tec rebuild

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Mekanix

Mekanix

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Got tasked with rebuilding a 2006 RXP 215 with a failed main bearing.

And well most if not all of the major components are unusable.

I've since found a replacement block with a snapped timing chain to start with.

I'm in the process of removing bent valves and replacing them. Looks like I'll have complete serviceable head soon when I'm done as the seats are not damaged.

I haven't measure the head bolts yet but I'm assuming that the general rule of thumb is to replace them anyways, Thoughts ? cost per bolt?

I also have to separate the block to install the chain. Are the main bolts reusable or not ?
What sealant would be best on the case halves?

Anything I should look for ?

Thanks.
 
On other threads that I have read about the Head Bolts, they are one time use.
Try to find or download the engine shop manual. I found the shop manual for my 04 RXP on the Internet. If you are a Premium member, you can access all of their manuals.
 
AircraftDoc said:
Look pacifically for engine shop manual.
Click to expand...

Pacifically you say :D gotta love autocorrect

I wasn't aware there was one just for the engine
Is there a certain year that manual was released? I got all the ones offered on seadomanuals . Net but i didn't notice an engine specific manual.

Searching....
 
Last edited by a moderator:
So far I need:
  • Head bolts
  • Rocker bolts
  • Case bolts
  • Flywheel bolts
  • All gaskets and seals
  • Front and rear oil pumps and housings

Who has the best products/ prices?

BRP, WSM, SBT, ARP ?

Also is there any way to repair gouged oil pump housings?
 
How can you gauge whether an oil pump is good or bad?

How much scoring is acceptable?
 
06 is an oddball year as it was a changeover year for several engine components, like even the crankshaft type, see link...

http://www.shopsbt.com/jetski/sea-doo-crankshaft-4-Tec-Jet-Ski-Boat-2006-2014.html

What year replacement block did you get? There are differences between years and early 06 is different from late 06. If you can post pics of everything, like crank, block, pto housing, I can tell you exactly which style you have and what needs to be done.
 
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Ok I didn't know the difference between the crank's.
I have to go back out and check.

For now if you look at the alignment mark for the crank and counterbalance the pin is almost 180' around. From what I can find that means the alignment pin is located in line with the piston at TDC.
 
Yes, you have the newer version. This means that your replacement block has to have the vent hole above the counter balance because it uses the mechanical TOPS valve system instead of the earlier electronic TOPS version. What year replacement block did you get? Exactly what parts do you plan on reusing for the rebuilding from the old and the replacement? If your replacement block is an 07 or newer, you are all set. If older, there will need to be some modifications.

You can make any year block work with any year crank and electronics with only minor modifications but the key is knowing what needs to be done.
 
Donor block is an 04/2006 RXP 215

Using only the donor block and head, everything else is from the original RXP including pto and secondary oil pump if I can rebuild them. Or replace them.

I'm not sure if the old engine is an early or late 2006 though.
 
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If it has the coil pickup on the side and it has the mechanical TOPS at the cam gear, it is the newer version. Most are in 06 except for very early 06s.
 
It has the pickup at the side :)
For the tops I'm not sure yet. Still haven't been through all the boxes of parts yet.


How can I gauge if the oil pump housings are usable?

I'm going to get new pump rebuild kits but I'd like to re-use the pto and secondary covers. I can't find a cheaper option and most that I've found online show similar wear on the casing but claim to be serviceable.
 
Got lots of parts today and starting the build up.

Can I machine the oil pump surfaces and sink the oil pump's/covers into the casing 20 thou without any negative effect's ? Its much cheaper than the alternative...

Its just to clean up the scratches although I think these aren't that bad.


20161024_205521.jpg20161024_205509.jpg

Thoughts ?
 
Got nearly 90% done the rebuild.

Have to say that the head bolts kicked my ass!

120 deg + 90 wow! Even with a 3 foot breaker bar.

Had one bolt fail. And it was a rocker bolt.
Torqued and stretched and then felt each one to see if any were really loose. That one spun easily.
I read somewhere that its common on stretch head bolts but didn't think I would have that on the rocker bolts.
 
It means you torque to a specific torque value, like 30 ft-lbs in a specific torque sequence of all the head bolts, then you torque it 120 degrees additional rotation in the same sequence, then last step is to torque another 90 degrees as a final torque rotation.

The head bolts can be a little flaky and tend to grab and jerk a little bit and some do fail during torquing. I always test each bolt to make sure it will hold at least 75 ft-lbs after the torque process. If it doesn't, replace it.
 
When they slip it feels like. " ok, brace for impact when it snaps."
But it just keeps twisting as if its lost the ability to hold under tension.

The amount of force it took to push them the last 90 degrees really surprised me.
It really felt like something was going to break or snap at some point.
 
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How could i hold the crank to torque the new mag bolts 50 deg without the pto tool.
Or, wherecan i find a good price on a pto tool?

So far they are $50 +
 
Mekanix said:
How could i hold the crank to torque the new mag bolts 50 deg without the pto tool.
Or, wherecan i find a good price on a pto tool?

So far they are $50 +
Click to expand...

Pull a plug and put line through the plug hole. Put enough line it that when it gets to TDC it won't compress.
 
I have that :)
I didnt think it was strong enough to hold the crank though.And im not sure how it holds the crank or if the shaft would bend.
 
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