few more issues

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500whp335i

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Ok so i was having issues starting my 240 merc and most of the issue was clogged/ shit fuel. I drained and cleaned the fuel system and seemed to have helped. I had a medium sized zip tie going around the wheel on the throttle wheel to add some throttle since thats the only way i could get the boat to start. After going out the past two days on the boat for about 20-30 minutes when i would go to neutral the boat would sometimes high idle, i figured out it was probably because i was throwing off the tps with the zip tie on the throttle wheel. Also when i was going around 5mph in a no wake zone heading back to the boat ramp the boat smoking pretty bad, burning way too much oil. today was a rainout i couldnt work on the boat so looks like tmrw i will start investigating.

Im thinking i might need to adj. the oil settings (anyone have a pic of the screws i need to adj?) i didnt see them in the manual. And I should check the throttle adjustments, anything else? the boat will only start if i give it some throttle while cranking over. i know i shouldnt do that but its the only way it will start/ stay running..

Thanks,
Frank
 
It should be in line with the mark on the arm that is closest to the spring. (the one that is close to the mark in the pic)
 
Once it starts (in the water) will it continue to run without extra throttle?

Have you checked the TPS?
 
Once it starts (in the water) will it continue to run without extra throttle?

Have you checked the TPS?

no it wont, while waiting for my old man to back the trailer into the water the boat started to rev high 1800ish rpm(zip tie still on the throttle cam wheel) so i shut it off quick took the zip tie off, boat started and idled fine, a few seconds later the boat died like it usually would without the spacer.. it does sound like a bad tps or one on its way out
 
Depending on what your bad fuel looked/smelled like you may want to try clean your injectors. Of all the things that get flushed, the tolerances in the injector are probably the most sensitive to crud. They have internal screens but they also can become clogged. At idle the flowthru the injector is the lowest (obviously), so that is when it is most sensitive to variation caused by the crud that has accumulated. Maybe I missed it, but did you know the source/age of the bad fuel. Ie. sat for 15 months, untreated, unsabilized.... Ethanol really can do some damage if it sits for too long under the right conditions.

If you cannot find a way to v,ean yur injectors , there are companies that can flush, then flow your injectors as compared. If you want to get fancy.0, thru can also provide spray pattern analysis. (not cheap however)
 
Depending on what your bad fuel looked/smelled like you may want to try clean your injectors. Of all the things that get flushed, the tolerances in the injector are probably the most sensitive to crud. They have internal screens but they also can become clogged. At idle the flowthru the injector is the lowest (obviously), so that is when it is most sensitive to variation caused by the crud that has accumulated. Maybe I missed it, but did you know the source/age of the bad fuel. Ie. sat for 15 months, untreated, unsabilized.... Ethanol really can do some damage if it sits for too long under the right conditions.


If you cannot find a way to v,ean yur injectors , there are companies that can flush, then flow your injectors as compared. If you want to get fancy.0, thru can also provide spray pattern analysis. (not cheap however)

it sat for over a year or so... i hope its not the injectors thats a pain in the ass
 
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