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couple questions

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ok ...I'll try that now joe... see what happens, get back to ya shortly
right, jumped the solenoid got spark and engine wanted to crank however the solenoid is squealing bit so I give it a slight tap and it quit. with that said I'm guessing the solenoid has taken a poo on me?
 
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If you jump the solenoid from large red wire to large re wire you are basically eliminating the solenoid. If it only sparked and didn't crank, then you have a poor connect, bad large hot wire, bad starter and the engine is seized.

Solenoids to go bad all the time and make noise or don't. It varies. But again, if you jumped the large wires it would not matter if the solenoid is good or bad.
 
Coastiejoe said:
If you jump the solenoid from large red wire to large re wire you are basically eliminating the solenoid. If it only sparked and didn't crank, .
Click to expand...
I got spark off the solenoid and the motor cranked I didn't let it start just turn over to remove the thought of the seized engine.
after thinking about it for a bit, I connected the volt meter to the battery and touched the solenoid without the key attached to the ski I got a reading of 12 to 12.5, 12.5 volt light started flashing 12 volt light stayed solid, now connecting the key the voltage reading dropped down to 5 volts.
 
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shucky said:
the battery test shows 13 volts dead engine, I'm not able to start the ski for some reason as I plug the key in I'm not getting the 2 beeps though the gauges light up, this is the same key I use all the time even tried the old key as well. still no beeps when plugging it in. checked fuses which seem to look ok ( not burnt or broken )
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No beeps? No surprise. Those buzzers go dead ALL THE TIME. If it's not dead yet, chances it will be after next ride or two. You can replace it with a cheap Radio Shack one but one trip to the ocean will kill that. A replacement I think is like $30 on eBay.
 
IDoSeaDoo said:
No beeps? No surprise. Those buzzers go dead ALL THE TIME. If it's not dead yet, chances it will be after next ride or two. You can replace it with a cheap Radio Shack one but one trip to the ocean will kill that. A replacement I think is like $30 on eBay.
Click to expand...
righto.... now I'm going to ask a really dumb question :) what would I be searching for if I was to try finding a replacement one? seadoo beeper or what, yes this jetski game is all new to me as far as mechanical issues go. there is now radioshack here in the land down under though with what you've stated I don't think I would use one from there anyways.
 
shucky said:
righto.... now I'm going to ask a really dumb question :) what would I be searching for if I was to try finding a replacement one? seadoo beeper or what, yes this jetski game is all new to me as far as mechanical issues go. there is now radioshack here in the land down under though with what you've stated I don't think I would use one from there anyways.
Click to expand...

I will look for the Radio Shack part number for you, (Lou knows it by heart I believe).

You have WAY TOO MANY things happening...

I would STRONGLY recommend that you remove EVERY ground cable. Twist them and see if the crinkle or white powder comes out near the ends. Do the same with the hot cable. Then clean the cable ends a well as where they mount.

I feel pretty certain you have a connection issue or a bad wire. For you to lose 11.5 volts simply by putting the key on makes little sense.

Remove the large red wire from the solenoid down to the starter and do the test again. This will take the starter out of the loop. It may help isolate the issue.
 
way too many issues is right there joe.,
I've borrowed a multimeter, its showing 12.93 for the battery alone and the same from the battery to the solenoid large red wire, nothing from the battery to the smaller red wire,
with the key on it volts bounce between 2-3 and varies up to 5, from the neg side of the battery to the pos side of the solenoid,
With out having the key on I've gone to both red wires on the solenoid and the voltage shows 12.40?,
Now I've attached the key and I get a reading of 12.88 volts.
due to the solenoid squealing a bit as I attach the key I'm thinking that noise isn't right.
 
Solenoids do go bad and quite often make noise when they fail. It could very easily be defective.

To me it sounds like a voltage or connection issue.

Have you gotten the battery load tested? If so, what was the number?
 
Haven't had the battery load tested yet Joe... Looking for a place that can do it. Checking out a couple places today...
 
The load test are as .. Deka battery 13.33 volts measured 444 cca rating 400 cca. Sourcing out where I can get the soleniod and going through the connections as well.
 
shucky said:
The load test are as .. Deka battery 13.33 volts measured 444 cca rating 400 cca. Sourcing out where I can get the soleniod and going through the connections as well.
Click to expand...

I would be truly shocked if the numbers are correct. To hold 13.3 volts under a load is almost unbelievable.

At any rate, [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION] will have a solenoid for you. He will get a notice to look at this post.

Let us know.,,
 
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no worries Joe, cheers for your help so far, I believe that 13.3 votls was the total voltage the batter was holding when they connected the load tester to it, they reckon they done a volt and load test, and a 2nd load test just to make sure the CCAs was correct. The guy at Battery world said the battery is what they use to fit into Harley Davidsons due to it being able to with stand high vibrations, says they battery new is about $200 + being ordered from the U.S,.
Yes I will let yas know how I get on with it all raining here today not really much I can do being that I have to pull the ski out of the shed to ponder around with it. hence ...no garage light.
 
I forgot you are across the pond. Freight for the solenoid would likely make it too much money.

I have no clue where to send you locally.
 
No worries Joe just shooting Minnetonka4me/ west side power sports a email as we speak. I've also sent a picture what I'm looking for, least that way every one is on the same page, cheers Joe.
soleniod.jpg
I have sence cleaned the connections on this old one but its also making the squealing noise, Minnetonka4me looking for one of these
seadoo gti 155 se 1500 cc 09 engine. can you give me a price including S&H if you ship to Australia?
 
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Well sadly enough I bit the bullet and went to the local stealership and bought a solenoid and thought to myself ...now this is it 10 minutes and we're off ...wrong though it did need a new one due to the squealing the old one was making. I'm in the process of going through a online manual and doing electrical test mainly ignition I've testes the starter fuse in and out puts all seem to be fine getting power to the solenoid and the list goes on. anyways I figured I'd let yas know where I'm at, the way the ski just quit running/starting I'm sure its a lose/broken connection somewhere I would put my life on it, just don't make sense. there is a couple tests shown in the manual that has to do with the ECM I haven't gotten that far with it yet todays project.
 
you can check for 12v at the plug that plugs into the solenoid.

We have seen rotten ground wires. They look just fine from the outside, junk on the inside.
 
Cheers Minnetonka
that Plug is also on the hit list today as well, as I said ...I'm sure its only a connection issue somewhere but as we all know chasing electrical connections and such can be a painful head mess, anyways I'll keep going with the multimeter and see what I come out with,
silly question though.. one a couple things say to use a FLUKE 115 multimeter on them.. not sure what sort of multimeter that is?
 
There is a section in the manual I have regarding the tests of the starter relay fuses one I can find which is fuse 13 the other which is fuse 16 which I can not find I only have 14 fuses in the fuse box. This is the only time I have seen anything about fuse 16 in the manual which says both of these are starter relay fuses and if 13 tests good then check 16.
heres a link to the manual I have PDF forum
http://www.ozpwc.com/forum/showthread.php/14415-sea-doo-repair-manual[/URL]
my ski hull is 08 the engine plate says engine year is 09, I'm guessing there isn't much difference between the 2 least from what I have read and see so far.. any thoughts on that?
NOTE I've had to paste the link to another forum thread where the manual link is ....( cant get the link to the actual manual to post correctly here.
 
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Fluke is a 10 meg or less impedance meter. Which basically means the neater itself will not harm sensitive parts like MPEMs and ECMs.

Some meter put out amps and volts and can harm things.

I still think you should remove all large hot and negative wires, clean the ends and where they bolt to, use dielectric grease and put it back together.
 
I'm at wits end on this, touching the negative side of the multimeter to the battery, then the pos side of the meter to the soleniod with out the key attached to the ski I'm getting a reading of 1.35, Now when I attach the key and do the same thing I get a reading of 0.00.
I could be just guessing here, but seems to me there shouldn't be any power going through the solenoid with out the key attached? and why would the voltage drop to 0 when attaching the key? all fuses are good new solenoid cleaned connections. I'm not even able to jump it from the solenoid ( ie no sparks when touching the large 2 wires,) battery has 12.80 volts.
 
You should read BATTERY VOLTAGE on the hot side of the solenoid. If you follow the hot wire from the battery it will go directly to one side of the solenoid. Thus, it will read battery voltage. If it is wired correctly, then you have a bad wire, poor connection or a junk battery.

You should be able to jump the solenoid and make it crank. The fact you can't leads me to think you have a bad wire, poor connection, or a junk battery.
 
red2blue said:
Clamp the tester leads to the battery terminals...read the voltage...then push start button.

does the voltage drop?
Click to expand...
No there is no change in the voltage when clamping the tester leads to the terminals and pushing the start/stop button.
 
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