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Correct oil mixture

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hustler21

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I have a 1994gtx with dual carbs. I have disconnected the oil injection; what would be the right oil mixture to use??????
 
40:1, be sure that you either leave the oil tank connected or provide a loop to keep the rotary valve gear lubricated.

Lou
 
I know I say this all the time... but why discontent it?? It's reliable as long as you service it once in a while.

Since we still need an oil sump for the rotary valve gears... the only reason to remove it is if the pump failed. (almost never happens)

But as Lou said... 40:1 with a good API-TC oil is Seadoo's spec.
 
When you have your carb-RV cover off as a unit, use your drill as described, in your ski's Shop Manual to determine the FLOW RATE also
described therein. A good pump is more better for recreational skiiing, as the oil is metered, and a mixed ski will load up the *plugs if you have to ride "no wake" or slow in alot of launch areas. Its owner preference. I suggest Read your *plugs and refer to Seadoo Snipe's corner, his plug reading chart.
 
I know I say this all the time... but why discontent it?? It's reliable as long as you service it once in a while.

Since we still need an oil sump for the rotary valve gears... the only reason to remove it is if the pump failed. (almost never happens)

But as Lou said... 40:1 with a good API-TC oil is Seadoo's spec.


When you say service it...what do you mean? what is the procedure to make sure you are fine. I haven't read anything about this and i have a oil pump in mine.
 
When you say service it...what do you mean? what is the procedure to make sure you are fine. I haven't read anything about this and i have a oil pump in mine.

make sure the little arm that is attached to the cable is aligned properly so that it adds the right amount of oil for the amount of throttle that is being used and make sure to replace the 2 little oil lines every 2 years thats it

Nathan
 
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oh yea there is a notch on the arm thing so that has to align up with the other mark....
how do you guys get to see the darn notch with the air base on there...its all the way down. and i cant even see it with the mirror
 
On a 717 it's located below the carbs. you'll need to remove the air filter. Mark both lines with a Sharpe.

Lou
 
Ya I already alighted them when I did all the fuel lines...now I should check it again before my first take with breakin is done
 
If you aligned the two marks you'll be O.K. Did you install new oil lines from the pump to the injectors?

Lou
 
When you say service it...what do you mean? what is the procedure to make sure you are fine. I haven't read anything about this and i have a oil pump in mine.


99% of the time, when people show up on this board, and say "I lost an engine, becasue the stupid oil injection failed!"... what they really mean to say is... "I have a 17 year old ski, and I never serviced the oil system, so I killed a perfectly good engine." (lol) Generally, what happes is... either the filter clogs up, the injection nozzle cloggs up, or the small hoses break, and fall off.

Ok, assuming it's been working... and you just want to make sure you are safe. What you do is:

1) Change the filter in the injection feed hose. (it's gravity feed, so a restriction will kill the engine)
2) Remove the small hoses, and make sure the nozzles in the manifold are clear.
3) Make sure the check valves at the pump are clear
4) Replace the small hoses.


On the 720 and smaller engine... it seems like the hoses are the main problem. Basically after +15 years... they just give up. Even if they feel soft, they are probably decayed. Give them a little twist, and they will probably rip. Needless to say, if that happens when you are out riding... you will loose an engine.

On the 800 and 951, the check valves can plug up easier. I think it has to do with the higher volume of oil. But here again... clean them every couple years, and you won't have an issue.

There are a few detailed threads on this.
 
What and how many small hoses are there...i dont quite understand which hose this is even.
there is this little tiny hose i see and mine was painted over. see pic (pointed with arrow)
 

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Those are the one's. I can't tell if these lines were replaced when the engine was rebuilt, you might want to contact the re-builder. If they were not you need to replace them with 3/32" Tygon gas line, I get it at Ace Hardware. A couple of feet will do it easily. Use cable ties instead of the clamps to secure.

Lou
 
ok so how to take them out? it has a clamp so i guess just press the clamp and it should come off..
here in canada we dont have ace hardware...the dealer here is selling it for $2.99 and $2.49 mine has only two correct?
also if i take it off...will it constantly bleed oil? if it does then i should get something to collect the oil. i dont want to get oil in all over lol
 
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This is basically what it should look like, I have not secured the ends with cable ties, this line is used on chain saws, weed eaters, etc. You should be able to get it anywhere small engines are repaired.

Lou
 

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do you know if the oem small hose is clear or at least can you see fresh oil moving in the when you first install it and fire the engine?
 
The OEM hoses are black, generally painted white, or whatever color the motor. You have a 17 year old ski, the small oil lines need replacing.

Lou
 
yea mine are actually painted silver as you can see ... i just finished by first tank of gas so its broken in.
i will do 100:1 premix...but also i have to make sure that my oil pump is working.
so how can i make sure its working without taking the thing apart?
i thought replace the hoses and crank the engine then see it fill the lines as i hold the pump lever wide open
 
I went to princes auto...they have no clue. All I saw was the PVC clear ones that I have in my ski for water
 
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