First time posting in the forum but I've been reading these for years and there's a lot of great information here for anybody new coming on and I thank you personally.
Bypass the stator on startup if this happens, clunk clunk click click. Dreaded sounds but I had to post for you all because this bypass is quite frankly it was most incredible find for the older jet skis, and quite frankly I have a lot I've had a lot and have worked on thousands more, because I don't know how many starters and starter relays I've swapped out. When I was testing every single circuit I put tester negative to negative start stop and the positive on the positive battery and I showed continuity right across the board as well as 12 volt obviously but it was going through the engine the MPEM which essentially showed a short circuit in the mpem and technically it is but you can bypass it and make it work in your favor it's not really a bypass it's a switch out just to cut it out of the circuit for a second. I actually ran the bike for like 5 minutes without it on it's okay still and my battery charge back up to like 13.2 Disconnect the four pin plug on the alternator and you should lose continuity as well as the power supply. Yellow wire will be good when you test them out
it's the black black red telltale.
The plucking sound coming from the start stop relay engaging the solenoid or the starter are the worst. Testing out the stator I found it good. The black and black red wire was over 20 ohms. It was leaking causing my power drop
Bypassed in about 20 minutes
two switches four long wires; I did number 14 wire and soldered connections and just heat heat shrunk over them before the connection on the stator or MAG side plug, routed forward, easily accessible you can mount and you can functionally access so that after the bike starts up like a charm it'll be black and white truly and these will be mounted in the normally open position whenever you stop you should just swap them over you'll probably notice any kind of parasitic draining and your battery will always be top notch and after taking off I engage them to a closed position to start charging the battery again there is no feeling you can't even tell the difference and found it even when clicking one on at a time it didn't cause any stifle and the draw is the same as what it was before it was happening just now I can start my bike so much easier. It's like the whole way to the engine just lifted off of the battery and now all has to do is fire up the starter and throw a little spark your spark cannot go anywhere except to the CDI now it's straight to the spark plugs.
In short to recap,
cut the two yellow wires engage or disengage your alternator two switches in across the yellow wires disable the wires for the AC that comes from the alternator. Now you have no voltage drop start your bike, your starter will sound like brand new. After starting, lip switches to the closed position or on you'll start charging again. A little cumbersome with the extra switches but I didn't have to pull that damn stator out. Work like a charm runs like a dream this could save a lot of headaches.
I picked up a couple of stx's 1100 recently I think I'm just going to add the switches in the circuit just to help it start better I'll keep you posted. And thanks again for everybody else in there contributions in the prior years saved a lot of bacon.
Best regards
