G’day all, long time no talk. (if you want to skip the story scroll down to the heading throttle Build and Replacement)
Today I had the boat out (95 speedster) but when I got it into the water I found the port engine wasn’t going through the full rev range. I thought because I was using 98 octane the tune was out. As I re-tuned the engine ( which turned out to be fine). I noticed the throttle cable was down to one strand. The cable had stretched so much that when the control was pushed forward the throttle body barely moved.
Naturally I quickly checked my usual places for replacement :
Ebay:
- $60 + ~43.41 shippping (as of 26 Oct 2013).
Jetsport (jetski wreckers located in southport, Queensland Australia):
- new -$110 + shipping (as of 26 Oct 2013).
- rebuild -( parts and labour, no quote given).
Personally I didn’t want to pay $110 per cable. I then sought an alternative solution. So I rang the local push bike shop, seeing as they really are similar, and asked if they made their own brake cables on site. After explaining the scenario I walked out with 1.8m of cable “inner” and “outer”, and a nut, washer and bolt ( type used on a BMX bike with the hole in it)……. $12.50.
Cable Inner: the actual wire cable that has the toggle.
Cable Outer: the tube that the cable passes through.
Throttle Cable build and Replacement.
Firstly, the new cable has only 1 “toggle” on the end therefore I don’t know if this will work on jet skis. This is the process as I done it. If anybody has any improvement on this throttle cable build, then more than happy to edit. Also the “cable inner” is made from stainless steel, perfect for marine applications.
Secondly, If the explanations may seem like I’m telling you how to suck eggs, then obviously those parts are for someone who doesn’t know what I’m talking about.
Tools required:
- Side cutters (wire cutters).
- 2 x 10mm open ended spanners. (a shifter if you don’t have two).
- 8mm open ended spanner.
- 8mm socket wrench (I used was ¼ “ drive ).
- Pliers.
- Phillips head screwdriver.
- Metal file (possibly depending on any “engineering” that needs doing to the cable inner toggle).
Nomenclature:
Cable Inner: the actual wire cable that has the toggle.
Cable Outer: the tube that the cable passes through.
Walkthrough.
Step 1: Calculating length and parts required.
Firstly remove the old cable from the boat and inspect the cable outer for damage. Do this before going to the bike shop to avoid buying an outer if you don’t need to. Try not to lose the nuts from the old cable ends as these will be needed for the new cable.
Measure your cable length. The bike shop I went to only had standard lengths for the cables therefore if you need longer than 1.8m ( 6 ft) then they may need to order in the tandem bike length which you can cut to length. Also the “outer” length is on a roll so you can get whatever length required.
Also you will need a BMX brake cable nut, bolt and washer. See Pic BMX Bolt and Nut 1.
Step 2: Installing new cable outer ends.
If the old cable outer is fine then run the cable inner through the cable outer. Check that there is approximately 10 cm (4”) protruding from the end when the cable inner is pulled through as far it can go (When the toggle hits the cable outer end). If the new cable inner has the length then skip the step 3. If the length short, remove the cable inner and take off short amounts until the cable inner protrusion length is adequate. Then follow the process in the next paragraph for the end that you **** of only. See throttle body cable outer end pic.
Cut off an end of the cable “inner” and remove from cable outer, then cut off the old “outer” ends ensuring you leave approximately 1.5 cm (9/16 “ is fine). If available place in a vice and use the pliers to remove the old bits of cable outer. Once removed, place an end of the new cable outer into the old cable end. It’s a tight fit so some of the plastic may have to be scraped off to make it easier (my new cable outer couldn’t have too much removed otherwise it would fall out of the end).
Repeat for the other end if necessary.
Step 3: Engineering the new toggle
Depending on the size of the toggle, some engineering is required. The diameter of the stock toggle is 6mm (¼” = 6.35 mm). My new cable inner toggle diameter was 7mm (Sizes may differ between brands). Using a file, resize the new cable inner toggle to 6mm or until it will fit into the hole on the throttle body leaver located on the carburettor, and can be rotated. This will ensure when the new throttle cable is installed the cable inner will correctly run in the groove on the throttle body leaver.
When the correct size is achieved, replace the cable inner into the cable outer.
See pic’s throttle body lever and shaping the toggle.
Step 4: Installing the new throttle cable.
Run the new throttle cable in the boat ensuring the toggle end is run to the carburettor.
Install the cable inner toggle into the throttle body leaver ensuring that it rotates to the correct position. If it doesn’t fit into the hole or rotate properly, go back to step 3. Don’t get the pliers and press it in as this will make it hard to remove later and also it makes it hard to rotate into the correct position (I made this mistake already so your choice to learn from it or not).
Install the cable outer ends in the respective locations and tighten the nuts (10mm). Slide the non-toggle cable end through the hole in the BMX bolt and place the washer on. Now place the BMX bolt into a hole in the underside of the throttle control lever, I used the second hole. (See pic Throttle control lever BMX bolt). Tighten the nut enough to prevent the cable from falling out but can be still pulled through with pliers.
Step 5: Adjusting the new cable.
The cable outer is now used as a channel for the cable and is no longer the point for throttle adjustment. The throttle control position at WOT is dependent on length of cable inner. Depending on the number of engines in your boat see as follows:
Single engine:
Ensuring the BMX nut is tight enough to not let the cable fall out, but still allow the cable to be pulled through with pliers. With the throttle control in the idle position (all the way back) pull the cable through with pliers until the throttle body in the carburettor is at WOT. Now push the throttle control lever to the position you want WOT. How this works is when you push the throttle control lever forward, it pulls the cable through the BMX nut.
When the WOT Throttle control lever position is set, pull the lever back to the idle position. At this position pull some of the cable inner back through the BMX nut to create some slack in the cable. This ensures that the cable doesn’t pull on the throttle and cause a high idle.
Lastly tighten the BMX nut, replace control lever module and covers. Job complete.
Twin engine:
Ensuring the BMX nut is tight enough to not let the cable fall out, but still allow the cable to be pulled through with pliers. With the throttle control in the idle position (all the way back) pull the cable through with pliers until the throttle body in the carburettor is at WOT.
Push the throttle control for the “other” engine to the WOT position. Now push the new throttle control lever to the position next to the other lever. This will set the WOT position for both engines to the same position. If replacing both engine throttle cables, set one then the other.
How this works is when you push the throttle control lever forward, it pulls the cable through the BMX nut.
When the WOT Throttle control lever position is set, pull the lever back to the idle position. At this position pull some of the cable inner back through the BMX nut to create some slack in the cable. This ensures that the cable doesn’t pull on the throttle and cause a high idle.
Step 5: Finishing up:
Tighten the BMX nut.
Start the engines and ensure that the new throttle cables are not too tight causing a change in idle.
Tighten the unused toggle holder. (seen in pic Throttle control lever BMX bolt).
Replace control lever module and covers .
Replace any other covers removed in the process of replacing the throttle cable(s), such as air intake etc.
Job complete.
