Changing grey fuel lines and replacing oil injection lines.

[Bjsaleen]

I know this topic has been beat to death, but I have a quick question about it that I could not find.
1. (May be a stupid question) do I need to drain the gas and oil tank before changing the lines? More the gas, or could I switch the fuel selector line to reserve then change the main line. And then switch to main line and switch the reserve ex.....
2. Just double checking on size of the lines, 1/4 fuel line for the replacement of the grey lines from the tank to the carbs and also the lines that are running from carb to carb and add an inline fuel filter 10 inched from carb inlet between tank and carb.
3. Oil injection lines are 3/32 tygon. And I'm confused on when I read about on of the lines would benefit from being clear, which one?

Sorry to beat the question to death but help is appreciated.... Thanks!

 

[Bjsaleen]

Oh and I forgot, how much of each hose length do I need?

 

[LouDoo]

I believe your ski uses 8mm (5/16") from the fuel filter/water separator to the carbs. You will need about 20' of 1/4" and about 5' of 5/16". 3/32" is the correct size for the oil lines, and tygon is clear with a green tint.

You don't need to drain either the fuel or oil tank, but you will need to pinch off the line from the oil tank and after you change the lines bleed them, also it would be a good idea to change the oil filter.

Lou

 

[Bjsaleen]

How much of the 3/32 tygon oil line do I need? And does it matter if it's injection line opposed to non injection line? My understanding is injection line hold up better to higher pressures?

 

[Waterluvr]

How much of the 3/32 tygon oil line do I need? And does it matter if it's injection line opposed to non injection line? My understanding is injection line hold up better to higher pressures?

3 feet is plenty for both sides of the pump to the injectors. Tygon branded line with the yellow tint is going to become increasingly harder to find as it has a higher permeation rate than Tygothane which meets the last and most stringent of the EPA's CARB certification standards for fuel permeation. It is primarily designed as fuel line and is alcohol tested and resistant to blended motor fuels.

I have switched over to using rolls of Tygothane now and actually like it better than Tygon as it is clear and transparent line. With the new red tint of XPS-II synthetics it's really easy to see it in the injection lines and it's every bit as tough and flexible as it predecessor.

 

[Bjsaleen]

Since I'm switching the oil lines from the pump to the injectors, would it be a good idea to switch the lines from the oil tank to the pump?

 

[Luv2Camp]

Since I'm switching the oil lines from the pump to the injectors, would it be a good idea to switch the lines from the oil tank to the pump?

YES! Replace them all. They work fine until they fail and when they fail if not caught will cost you the motor

I am also not a fan of zip ties or hose clamps and like to go with a locking clamp like OE uses. This kit works great

Search Oetiker 18500060 Stepless 1-Ear Clamp Kit on amazon (unable to post amazon links here)

 

[Bjsaleen]

YES! Replace them all. They work fine until they fail and when they fail if not caught will cost you the motor

I am also not a fan of zip ties or hose clamps and like to go with a locking clamp like OE uses. This kit works great

Search Oetiker 18500060 Stepless 1-Ear Clamp Kit on amazon (unable to post amazon links here)

Would 5/16 tygon fuel hose be my best bet?

 

[AdamXP800]

Did the 96 GTX use 5/16??
I don't remember my 97 Gtx having any 5/16



96 XP800!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!

 

[Bjsaleen]

Did the 96 GTX use 5/16??
I don't remember my 97 Gtx having any 5/16



96 XP800!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!

My parts catalog with the exploded views is showing 8mm (5/16) hose from the bottom of the oil reservoir to the oil injection pump.

 

[Mike99]

I think all 951's have the 5/16 gas line on the feed side. The other engines use 1/4".

 

[Bjsaleen]

I think all 951's have the 5/16 gas line on the feed side. The other engines use 1/4".

Sorry I guess I should have specified which motor I have, it's the 787. Not sure if that changes anything.

 

[AdamXP800]

The only 5/16 you have is oil lines I believe. All you need is 1/4 for fuel lines.



96 XP800!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!

 

[Luv2Camp]

Not sure if I would use tygon for the fuel lines but others may have input on that. I would go with regular flexible fuel injection 1/4 fuel line. Now it is not marine rated but think many of us use this type hose. Here is something similar. $20 for 25 feet

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-X-25-GA...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d3302e4dd&vxp=mtr

 

[Bjsaleen]

Thanks for all the info guys! I've got 25ft of of 1/4 fuel line and 3ft of 3/32 tygon hose on its way from amazon. Once I get those lines changes out I will focus on the lines from the oil reservoir to the oil injector. Thanks again for all your help! It's greatly appreciated!

 

[AdamXP800]

I wouldn't worry worry too much about your larger oil lines. Just inspect them, if they look good I would just leave those alone.



96 XP800!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!

 

[Bjsaleen]

I wouldn't worry worry too much about your larger oil lines. Just inspect them, if they look good I would just leave those alone.



96 XP800!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!

I was thinking just that, I will inspect and if all is good I will leave them alone. Does anyone have a good way to prime the lines after I replace all the grey fuel hoses?

 

[kicker]

No priming required, make sure the fuel selector is "ON" and crank it, the carbs will pull the fuel in. Usually takes about 10 seconds.

 

[Bjsaleen]

No priming required, make sure the fuel selector is "ON" and crank it, the carbs will pull the fuel in. Usually takes about 10 seconds.

Sounds good! Thanks


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[Luv2Camp]

Respectfully, I disagree about not worrying about the other lines. You are going to need to bleed your system when you replace the small tygon. you may as well spend the 20 bucks and replace the lines and be done with it. Would stink to do the work and have to do it over again if you decide later to replace them. They most likely are as old as your ski

 

[Bjsaleen]

Respectfully, I disagree about not worrying about the other lines. You are going to need to bleed your system when you replace the small tygon. you may as well spend the 20 bucks and replace the lines and be done with it. Would stink to do the work and have to do it over again if you decide later to replace them. They most likely are as old as your ski

Yeah I agree. I think I'm gonna replace all grey fuel lines and fuel filters first (one on the fuel baffle and the other in between the fuel selector and the carb. Then figure out why the fuel gauge on my info screen turns on and off randomly while hitting waves.Once I get done with that job. Then I'm gonna replace the oil injection lines with the Tygon lines then will replace the lines from the oil tank to the injector.


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[AdamXP800]

Never seen those lines go bad, but it couldn't hurt.



96 XP800!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!

 

[Matt Braley]

It's the filter in the oil supply line that MUST be changed as Lou said. The larger lines from the oil tank will not fail but the grommets in the bottom of the tank will start to leak over time. I understand Luv2camp wanting to do it right though.

The fuel selector is a common failure point and only $20-$30 dollars to replace. I would not skip it. The O-ring at the top of your white plastic screw on water collector/filter must be there and in good shape. Wash the element and make sure the screen does not tear.

 

[Luv2Camp]

+1 on the fuel selector valve. I also replaced my fuel filter as the o ring was dry rotted. Found a new one on Ebay for $12 delivered. BE VERY CAREFUL when you replace the fuel lines on the fuel baffle as well as the selector and mark the lines. You get them crossed and it may not work, or you may get the reserve line switched and run out of fuel. The fuel filter lines also need to go back the same for proper filtering.

I mark the baffle outlets and selector valve with permanent marker and put 1, 2, 3,4 tick marks on it. I than take zip ties and put the same number of zip ties somewhere on the fuel line that corresponds. This way when you start replacing them, you can match up easily. Also, you may have to get that tank almost empty, remove the fuel filler line to it so you can pull the tank up over the hump and into the storage area as much as you can to easily get to the fuel baffle lines. Pull up straight on the lines on the baffle as these have plastic nipples and you do not want to put a crack at the base of them.

As was already pointed out, no priming needed on the fuel side but will be critical that this is done at the oil pump bleed valve. Any air in that line can be your engine. A mirror works great for finding that bleed valve. Let me know when you get close to that and if you want to hook up, I can help you bleed the line or if you have any other questions when replacing the lines. I also have the pop off pressure tool and we can check both the oil and fuel side to be sure they are no leaks and pressure test your jet pump after you change the oil in it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150998718619?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[soccerdad]

I actually like to use a hand held vacuum pump to suck the fuel through the system up to the carbs before I try to start it. It keeps you from having to crank and crank. Also, it lets you make sure everything on the supply side is vacuum tight. Just saves some hassle and time for me. Harbor Freight for $20ish bucks.