Changing grey fuel lines and replacing oil injection lines.

[mikidymac]

Easy way is to leave the return line off the carb turn the fuel off and blow through the tank vent intake to add a little pressure into the tank. Then turn the fuel on and as soon as fuel starts to dribble out of the carb slip the return line back on and it is primed. Remember once it fires to hold the oil pump lever wide open to get oil through the small lines quickly.

 

[Luv2Camp]

Easy way is to leave the return line off the carb turn the fuel off and blow through the tank vent intake to add a little pressure into the tank. Then turn the fuel on and as soon as fuel starts to dribble out of the carb slip the return line back on and it is primed. Remember once it fires to hold the oil pump lever wide open to get oil through the small lines quickly.

I like to attach the spark plug wires to their grounding lugs and after I have bled the air out of the oil pump line, hold the throttle wide open and crank it for 10-15 seconds with 30 second breaks to not overheat the starter. While I am doing this, I am looking for the oil to advance up the tygon lines and also for my inline fuel filter to fill with fuel. 4-5 times of cranking like this and my tygon lines are full and the fuel has made it to the carb as well.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

I believe your ski uses 8mm (5/16") from the fuel filter/water separator to the carbs. You will need about 20' of 1/4" and about 5' of 5/16". 3/32" is the correct size for the oil lines, and tygon is clear with a green tint.

You don't need to drain either the fuel or oil tank, but you will need to pinch off the line from the oil tank and after you change the lines bleed them, also it would be a good idea to change the oil filter.

Lou

My 96 GTX took all 1/4 inch fuel lines. I bought a spool of 25 ft and had about 2-3 feet left over. I also replaced the vent lines with it. I bought 25 clamps and used almost all of them.
Now the clear oil lines to the case is a different story

 

[Bjsaleen]

My 96 GTX took all 1/4 inch fuel lines. I bought a spool of 25 ft and had about 2-3 feet left over. I also replaced the vent lines with it. I bought 25 clamps and used almost all of them.
Now the clear oil lines to the case is a different story

Good to know!! I bought 25ft of 1/4 fuel hose and a new fuel/water separator filter and O-ring today. I'm gonna attempt to clean my selector but chances are I will just buy a new one!


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[Matt Braley]

The possibility of flow restriction is not the only upcoming headache with old fuel selectors. The rubber actually starts to shrink up in many cases and will allow air to seep in. Now it's like trying to draw a soda through a cracked straw.

So blowing through your fuel selector is absolutely no guarantee that it's good and not bad.

 

[Bjsaleen]

The possibility of flow restriction is not the only upcoming headache with old fuel selectors. The rubber actually starts to shrink up in many cases and will allow air to seep in. Now it's like trying to draw a soda through a cracked straw.

So blowing through your fuel selector is absolutely no guarantee that it's good and not bad.

So are you suggesting just go ahead and buy a new one and forget about trying to clean it?

 

[Matt Braley]

Yes I am. The rubber inside can shrink up and allow air in. The rubber will spin inside sometimes and allow the ON and RES channels to bleed into each other. Then you get a ski that won't run right up top and blows up after a while.

They're a known trouble maker and not that difficult or expensive to replace. I just wouldn't push your pretty new fuel lines on that possible culprit.

 

[bajaman123]

3 feet is plenty for both sides of the pump to the injectors. Tygon branded line with the yellow tint is going to become increasingly harder to find as it has a higher permeation rate than Tygothane which meets the last and most stringent of the EPA's CARB certification standards for fuel permeation. It is primarily designed as fuel line and is alcohol tested and resistant to blended motor fuels.

I have switched over to using rolls of Tygothane now and actually like it better than Tygon as it is clear and transparent line. With the new red tint of XPS-II synthetics it's really easy to see it in the injection lines and it's every bit as tough and flexible as it predecessor.

Is the right TYGOTHANE version the LP1500 as seen in this link?:

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=57622

 

[Waterluvr]

Is the right TYGOTHANE version the LP1500 as seen in this link?:

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=57622

That's it, for no more than you probably need try your local small engine/chainsaw/OPE repair shops they usually sell it by the foot. RC toy hobby shops should have it available if they sell alcohol fueled toys as well.

 

[bajaman123]

I was into R/C boats, planes and 'copters for years...and have a lot of different types of fuel line. Most are silicone rated to resist 60% nitromethane fuel. The TYGOTHANE appears to be a polyurethane hose?
Thanks for the advice, it looks like a local mower repair shop actually has this stuff...if I am looking at it right.

 

[Shane0524]

I ordered 20 meters of fuel line for my '96 gtx from the seadoo parts (shopatron site) it cost less than 30 bucks and it is black MPI line with 1/4 in inside diameter. According to the diagrams all the fuel line is 1/4 in inside. I am chaining my lines this weekend and have a few questions. I do not want to start another grey line thread)

1. Does anyone have any tips with regards to changing the fuel which vent line which runs to the hull. The clamp seems basically impossible to get to because of the foam inside the hull.

2. Do I really need to clean the carbs after the fuel line change? or just filters or what? Machine runs great now and has 49 hours on it.

3. What is this black line and does it need to be changed with the rest of the fuel lines? It goes from the front carb down to the block.

4. How is a person supposed to get a new crimp clamp on this line under the carbs with out removing the carbs.

any suggestions greatly appreciated...... I'm not really knowledgeable with the carbs.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

20 meters = about 60 ft. doesn't it. Maybe you mean about 20 feet.

I used about 22-23 feet on my 96 GTX

I just took a screwdriver and took off the OEM clamps and reinstalled Stainless hose clamps from Lowes ,etc or auto parts store

I replace all the vent lines too with the new black hose.

I didn't clean the carbs or filter until I started to have a bog issue, but that was stupid on my part. I had Dr. Honda clean them for me. I would clean them and the filter too since they are off the motor.

Very difficult to get to the carb hoses, I have small hands and was able to do it, but I would recommend taking off the carbs.

 

[Shane0524]

Thanks for the tips.... do you have to replace the carb gasket when you take the carb off?

 

[Shane0524]

No I really did get 20 meters... I know way more than I needed, but I got it now. How did you change the vent hose that runs to the out side port under the starboard fron rubrail?

 

[Bjsaleen]

Ok a little update of my project here, I took out all the grey fuel lines and replaced the with fresh 1/4 inner diameter fuel line and replaced the fuel selector. The guy who owned it before me completely bypassed the fuel water separator and put an inline fuel filter instead. I ended up replacing the filter and o-ring on the fuel separator and hooking it back up and replacing the inline fuel filter with a brand new one. Can never have to much filtration. Since I had the carbs off I decided to check the internal filters. The previous owner stated he just had the carbs rebuilt so the gaskets were all still brand new. Once I opened them up the mag carb had slight garbage in the filter so I cleaned it out with warm water and soap. The pto carb filter was clean, so I placed it back in. I went to the local harbor freight and bought the necessary tools to perform a pop off test on both carbs. The mag carb popped off at 30psi so good to go there. The pto carb initially popped off at 50 psi so I broke it down and did some deep carb cleaning placed all back together and had a pop off pressure of 43 with a holding pressure of 35psi so good to go there. My carbs called for pop off pressures of 23-43 in case someone could use those numbers. After all that I replaced the 3/32 oil injection lines with brand new tygon lines. I read all these ways to bleed them but figured the easiest route for me would be to take off the oil pump and place my drill on the shaft and run my drill in reverse while holding the valve wide open. It not only lets me know if my pump is functional but it also bleeds the lines. Replaced the lines. Took apart my RAVE Valves actually not to dirty but deep cleaned them anyways and replaced the gaskets and placed back in the motor.
Here's a list of what was used

25ft roll of 1/4 Fuel line
3ft of tygon oil injection line
New fuel/water separator filter and o-ring
New inline fuel filter placed 10 inches past fuel separator
New fuel selector

20 hose clamps

 

[pwgsx]

I just did a engine swap on the 720 motor and its really easy to bleed the lines. Remove the bleed screw on the oil pump and let it dribble out for a bit. Re-install it and start your motor. Holding the oil lever all the way open during idle. It takes about 10 seconds and oil is all the way pumped into your motor. Simple!!

 

[Bjsaleen]

Thanks all, I actually ended up cranking it for about 10 seconds and it fired right up. now I'm gonna change the oil filter and grommet on the bottom of the oil tank. I've been researching on how to line up the lines on my oil injection pump as the lines are off a little. any Info would be helpful!! Thanks!