Challenger Exhaust

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euro_wake

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Hey all
I am gearing up for this season and I noticed that one of my bungs on my exhaust is leaking again. So instead of pulling it off and repairing it again I decided to go aftermarket. I got a used Rossier pipe. It is a little different than stock and I do have a few questions about it. I have installed an aftermarket pipe on my kaw ss and had no trouble with it, but this is a little different. I have tried to contact rossier via phone and email but no response. Ive looked online and the forums but I'm still not clear on a few things.

1. Is this worth changing over? build quality seems much better than stock.
2. Do I have to run a water injection system? with the coffman pipe on my kaw I did not have to.
3. There is no water line to stock water injector on waterbox. What do I do there, tee from somewhere else?
4. Do I have to rejet the carbs?

thanks Brandon
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I like a Rossier pipe but it does require different jetting and water routing. Usually the increase in power revs the engine higher though and requires an aftermarket rev limiter. The boat may be heavy enough to not require the rev limiter but I have not seen them used in boats before.

Rossier still makes ATV parts these days but they don't service their old pwc performance parts and customers unfortunately. I have the jetting but it's for a ski and the heavier hull may require a little more fuel. I would probably keep it stock as that would be the safest. Anytime you change one thing it just makes a lot of other changes necessary.

If you do use it you will replace the water regulator on the water box with a 1/4" fitting that will have to be threaded to hold a Mikuni high speed jet. There will also be a jetted fitting at the stinger(the exit) of the pipe. There is a third Mikuni HS jet under the 1/2" fitting on your Rossier pipe.

If you want to deal with this I'll be glad to help. I've only had success with these pipes on skis however and the added performance will shorten engine life.

Racer's plugs are thick like the ones Rossier used so if you do have them welded in the OEM pipe it won't fail again.
 
Thanks for the responses and to Matt Bradley. It seems I am going to repair my factory pipe. I did not realize how hard it would be on the motor. As I said before just had to run new line and rejet the single carb on my kaw and thought this would be the same. Are sea doo's more temperamental? I've noticed that I work on it more than my kaw?
I did notice that I need to replace my coupler between the pipe and waterbox. Can I use just regular wet exhaust hose from west marine or is it a special type of hose?
 
You should be able to get that hose from west marine. If the pipe on either side of that connection is discolored you will need to check the water control valve on the water box. Typically when that starts to fail the rubber coupler will start to melt from lack of cooling.

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Yes Seadoos came a little higher strung then the others from the factory. Getting the original stuff solid will give you good performance and a proven setup you can count on. You may have not even noticed the performace increase the Rossier provided with the weight of the boat hull.

When the coupler between the pipe and wb has bubbled or burned through it's an indication that your water regulator has failed. Sometimes you can look at the small line on the highest point of the pipe and see where it does not fit so tight anymore when it's gone on too long and gotten too hot.

A working water regulator will give you better all around performance and keep things running nice and cool. you can use any good rubber piece but it is not expensive to upgrade to 100% silicone. You can find any color on Ebay for under $10 shipped.
 
Ill get a pic of it up tonight it does not look melted as much just worn thru like the pipe and waterbox were not mated well. All of the hoses look great and fit good and snug. Is their any other indication of failure of water regulator? So a silicone coupler from pep boys would work?
 
Well, you'd need to take the regulator apart to inspect it, there is a metal clip that sometimes pokes a hole the rubber bellow inside there, the lines can plug with debris. I'm one for going thru every last detail to make sure nothing is on the brink of failure.

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I pulled the regulator and found a broken spring and rusted out spring clamp. I cleaned the valve and bellow and looks good. Can I use a rave valve spring to replace the broken one? And what can I use to replace the bellow clamp?
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Good thing you took a look in there. I would hit up Minnatonka4me for good used parts. On that little stuff the dealer might be a good option also.
 
What do you think i could get for a cleaned and freshly painted Rossier pipe lol. Or would it be best to leave it unfinished.
 
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It looks great the way it is. The one on ebay has not been selling at $350. The other recent two at $225 and $275 are gone.

If you want to dump it cheap then please PM me, I'll find a good home for it eventually.
 
Hey all,
got the factory pipe welded with the new welch plugs, painted and installed. Did a water test in driveway everything was great. Put it in the water ran good then started running like a dog. Opened the hatch to find bilge was full of water. Come to find out water regulator was gushing water out of the cap. Popped of the cap and the center was floating in water. What could have cause this? What is the corrective action? I pulled, fixed rusted c clamp, and cleaned it but did not take the center out and it was not loose at the time. Any thoughts,
 
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