Can thisi be fixed? Is it worth it?

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mrlmd1

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I have a '97 GS with the Rotax 717 engine. I haven't run this ski for a few years, before I layed it up it started instantly and ran perfectly, never had any problem with it.
It was recently lost (washed away) from my dock by Hurricane Hermine but was recovered in a marsh some 18-20 miles from my house by a couple of guys with an airboat and I have gotten it back. It was unscathed, not even scratched, and the only evidence of anything is the missing black trim molding in the right rear corner and the cover was torn off.
On opening the engine compartment to clean out a very little bit of water in there, I noticed the case is warped and split for about a 1/4-1/2" at the top and is separated from the top of the engine (cylinder head?). See the pics.
My question is, can this be repaired without spending a fortune for a rebuilt engine, is the lower case a separate part I can buy and replace without any special tools, and what is in there? Is that water for cooling, exhaust gasses, or nothing? Is that Rube Goldberg repairable with something like JBWeld to close the opening and seal it off?
I haven't pulled the plugs yet to see what's in the cylinders, but, as it had no battery in it and before doing anything, I turned it over with an external battery twice for one second, to make sure it wasn't frozen, that the engine still turns.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated so I know how to proceed from here and how much to expect to repair this. IMG_1039.JPGIMG_1040.JPGIMG_1041.JPG
 
That is interesting, my feeble brain says we should only see this due to freezing ... not in Florida, but saltwater does funny things with corrosion.

Please to remove the head and post more pictures ... if just for my curiosity ... thanks.

In any case, probably JB-Weld will not fix it.

Good luck.
 
Never froze, never overheated, so I don't know why that would have happened.
I can't even budge or loosen any of the head cover bolts to try and take this apart and look in there and I'm afraid to break them off or torque off the head of the bolts. Friggin locktite and/or them getting self welded in there after being in there for 20 years. All the bolts are still nicely covered in the original engine paint, are nice and clean underneath, but they won't budge. Any ideas? Heat them up with a heat gun?
Maybe I'll just get out the JBWeld and see if it runs.
 
Yes!
You have a complete 717


Spimothy Leary said:
ocod... I threw a lot of the parts i got in your bundle in a crate and just stashed them for later, but now i'm thinking I might have seen a couple of 717 cyl's in there... does that ring a bell?
Click to expand...
 
a complete one? good lord I need to catch up on my inventory, right after we did that deal I bought like 6 part out machines and kinda forgot about all your stuff lol. I think I need to take a week off of work and get organized.
 
mrlmd1 said:
Never froze, never overheated, so I don't know why that would have happened.
I can't even budge or loosen any of the head cover bolts to try and take this apart and look in there and I'm afraid to break them off or torque off the head of the bolts. Friggin locktite and/or them getting self welded in there after being in there for 20 years. All the bolts are still nicely covered in the original engine paint, are nice and clean underneath, but they won't budge. Any ideas? Heat them up with a heat gun?
Maybe I'll just get out the JBWeld and see if it runs.
Click to expand...

Chemicals, heat and shock are the methods typically used. Sealed with paint says you probably cannot get chemicals to the threads right now. As Spim said, torch may work. Prior to that I would tap them with a hammer (shock) or use an impact driver or drill to break free the paint or corrosion at the top of the bolts. Patience is the big hint, broken bolts are not fun.

JBWeld may be a temporary fix, it is good stuff. Before that I recommend you do a compression test to insure the problem has not reached the cylinder internals.

Good luck
 
Spimothy Leary said:
a complete one? good lord I need to catch up on my inventory, right after we did that deal I bought like 6 part out machines and kinda forgot about all your stuff lol. I think I need to take a week off of work and get organized.
Click to expand...

organization is overrated: see, you would not have had this pleasant surprise if you were organized
 
Put a little Marvel Mystery oil in each plug hole, let it sit a minute or two, cranked it for a few secs. to distribute the oil, then did a compression test and both cylinders were exactly the same and in the normal range. Then decided to close that little open area in the case with some JBWeld, let it set about an hour, then put a little gas in the tank, put it on reserve, hooked up the flush water line, hit the start button and choke, and the sucker started up in about 30 sec. the first time. Smoked a lot because of the oil in the cylinder for a minute, shut it off, and then could start it repeatedly in less than a second. It runs great, can't believe it after not using it for maybe 4 years. So if the JBWeld repair holds, and it should, that's a helluva lot easier than trying to get the head off and replacing the cylinders, pistons, case and gaskets, etc, and sooo much cheaper. Now I have to get up the balls to take it out and see how it runs, hoping I don't have to paddle or get towed home. I have to lube up the throttle cable and carb linkage and steering linkage. What else should I do to it to get it in shape for use?
 
I understand that. I put a little oil in the cylinder to provide a little lubrication before trying to start it because I'm sure it was totally dry in there because it had been sitting idle for many years. It won't give a falsely high reading unless you really put a lot in and greatly reduce the displacement volume of the cylinder, and if it's totally dry and leaking compression, lubricating the walls of the cylinder and piston rings will restore the compression to normal. In any event, no harm was done and I'm sure it was quite beneficial to do that. My ski runs great and starts in an instant.
 
mrlmd1 said:
Put a little Marvel Mystery oil in each plug hole, let it sit a minute or two, cranked it for a few secs. to distribute the oil, then did a compression test and both cylinders were exactly the same and in the normal range. Then decided to close that little open area in the case with some JBWeld, let it set about an hour, then put a little gas in the tank, put it on reserve, hooked up the flush water line, hit the start button and choke, and the sucker started up in about 30 sec. the first time. Smoked a lot because of the oil in the cylinder for a minute, shut it off, and then could start it repeatedly in less than a second. It runs great, can't believe it after not using it for maybe 4 years. So if the JBWeld repair holds, and it should, that's a helluva lot easier than trying to get the head off and replacing the cylinders, pistons, case and gaskets, etc, and sooo much cheaper. Now I have to get up the balls to take it out and see how it runs, hoping I don't have to paddle or get towed home. I have to lube up the throttle cable and carb linkage and steering linkage. What else should I do to it to get it in shape for use?
Click to expand...

Pray ... and make sure you do not ride alone beyond paddle-ashore range. But, you maybe among the lucky ones ... buy a lottery ticket!
 
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