Yes I want to bypass my oil injection. Before trying to convince me otherwise lets have some background.
I put three hours on my new to me ski before a carb bolt just past the intake side came loose and got sucked into my bottom end. It was a saltwater motor and just trying to take it apart trashed it. Now I have a new rebuilt short block but my old crappy stator cover and pump. The spring on the pump wont seat right and the cable mount is all corroded and nasty.
Now I would leave the pump intact if it was working and in good shape but while I have much experience rebuilding two strokes, this is my first PWC and I just dont want to put that crappy looking pump back in the loop and risk my new motor. I have read many of the cons of doing this and I must say they do not make sense to me. Fouling plugs, poor lube for the rotary valve, excessive oil consumption etc ...
I run a rotary valve rotax in my Drakart and its injection system was bypassed by the builder. I run 32:1 premix and I run top quality oil. this works out to 20 oz per five gallons and costs more sure but an extra dollar an hour of run time is fine with me for a solid engine. The way I understand the injection system working is the main oil source is in the bottom end while a slight amount hits the RV as it does need lubrication as well. makes sense, but When you go premix your oil/gas is going straight through the RV, and lubricating it .. where as when using the injection setup that would be absent and hence the need for the injection there. But premix eliminates that so I do not see the need to leave the RV lines connected The engine in my buggy runs this same way with no issues.
To me the huge benefit of going premix is the ability to run quality castor based premix oils that are not recommend for injectors, like maxima 927. Its 100% biodegradable, smokes far less, smells good and doesn't foul plugs. It leaves a film on everything and leaves no carbon behind. I have rebuilt motors that I have ran this stuff in and they look new on the inside.
So after searching and finding all the cons, I cant find a good howto and some of the info seems contradicting. My thought is to remove the teflon shaft that drives the pump to disable it. Then connect the RV injection lines to each other to seal the engine to prevent leaning out the mix.. Then I am left with the main injection and overflow line in the bottom end. I'm thinking to just run those two together like I will do the RV, or just close them off completely any issues there?
When I pulled the old motor apart the center head bolts were all stuck and the center crank was discolored from heat damage. Not sure if the pump was already on its way out or calibrated incorrectly but it seems evident that it was not receiving adequate oil at some point in the past.
I put three hours on my new to me ski before a carb bolt just past the intake side came loose and got sucked into my bottom end. It was a saltwater motor and just trying to take it apart trashed it. Now I have a new rebuilt short block but my old crappy stator cover and pump. The spring on the pump wont seat right and the cable mount is all corroded and nasty.
Now I would leave the pump intact if it was working and in good shape but while I have much experience rebuilding two strokes, this is my first PWC and I just dont want to put that crappy looking pump back in the loop and risk my new motor. I have read many of the cons of doing this and I must say they do not make sense to me. Fouling plugs, poor lube for the rotary valve, excessive oil consumption etc ...
I run a rotary valve rotax in my Drakart and its injection system was bypassed by the builder. I run 32:1 premix and I run top quality oil. this works out to 20 oz per five gallons and costs more sure but an extra dollar an hour of run time is fine with me for a solid engine. The way I understand the injection system working is the main oil source is in the bottom end while a slight amount hits the RV as it does need lubrication as well. makes sense, but When you go premix your oil/gas is going straight through the RV, and lubricating it .. where as when using the injection setup that would be absent and hence the need for the injection there. But premix eliminates that so I do not see the need to leave the RV lines connected The engine in my buggy runs this same way with no issues.
To me the huge benefit of going premix is the ability to run quality castor based premix oils that are not recommend for injectors, like maxima 927. Its 100% biodegradable, smokes far less, smells good and doesn't foul plugs. It leaves a film on everything and leaves no carbon behind. I have rebuilt motors that I have ran this stuff in and they look new on the inside.
So after searching and finding all the cons, I cant find a good howto and some of the info seems contradicting. My thought is to remove the teflon shaft that drives the pump to disable it. Then connect the RV injection lines to each other to seal the engine to prevent leaning out the mix.. Then I am left with the main injection and overflow line in the bottom end. I'm thinking to just run those two together like I will do the RV, or just close them off completely any issues there?
When I pulled the old motor apart the center head bolts were all stuck and the center crank was discolored from heat damage. Not sure if the pump was already on its way out or calibrated incorrectly but it seems evident that it was not receiving adequate oil at some point in the past.
