Bought by first Seadoo 4 stoke, need information

[sselzer]

I owned 2 Seadoo's 2 strokes a 96 SPX and 97 GSX, and got tried on the constant problems. So yesterday I bought a 2005 GTX limited with supercharger. The Seadoo is an great condition and has 188 HRs on it. Came with double trailer with diamond plated tool box. The owner rebuilt supercharger at 126 HRS, and recently replaced the wear ring and solenoid. I paid $2600 for it, is that a good price?

My first question is about oil changes, why are they so expensive and should I do they myself?

What kind of oil, I have Seadoo XPS oil for my other 2 skis (2 strokes), is that the same?

What aftermarket oil is the best Mobil one, ETC?

In the oil change instructions after you suck out the oil the first time, and crank the motor for another 10 seconds, how do you stop it from starting, remove the plugs?

why do you need to run it on a hose out of water, I thought it was it own internal cooling system?

Lastly, when the time comes up to rebuilt the supercharger again, can you just remove it, since other 4 stokes don't have it? There really expensive to fix.

Thanks in advance for everyone's help.

Sean

 

[KK40384]

Stay away from the synthetic oil on the supercharged models. Here's a video I uploaded a while ago on how to change your oil yourself:

[youtube]rcm35HSHJqM[/youtube]

I think you did good on the price for the unit given it is in good condition. The trailer alone is probably worth at least 1k.

 

[sselzer]

Stay away from the synthetic oil on the supercharged models. Here's a video I uploaded a while ago on how to change your oil yourself:

[youtube]rcm35HSHJqM[/youtube]

I think you did good on the price for the unit given it is in good condition. The trailer alone is probably worth at least 1k.

Why can't I use synthetic oil its recommanded by Seadoo, what oil and brand should I use?

 

[KK40384]

Seadoo recommends synthetic for the non supercharged 130/155 models. The SC models take 10w40 motorcycle oil or whatever their XPS equivalent is. The synthetic oil causes premature SC wear and can cause them to fail and damage the engine.

 

[sselzer]

My supercharger was rebuilt and the ceramic washers were changed out to metal ones, DOES that make a difference?

What's the best oil?

What about AMSOIL Formula 4-stroke oil Marine Oil 10W-40 (WCF)?

 

[sselzer]

My supercharger was rebuilt and the ceramic washers were changed out to metal ones, DOES that make a difference?

What's the best oil?

What about AMSOIL Formula 4-stroke oil Marine Oil 10W-40 (WCF)?

 

[Coastiejoe]

The SC engines are of a different build compared to non-SC engines. If you remove the SC you will lose about 20 MPH, substantial performance, and nearly 3000 RPM.

 

[sselzer]

Heres some pics of my new ski.

 

[KK40384]

My supercharger was rebuilt and the ceramic washers were changed out to metal ones, DOES that make a difference?

What's the best oil?

What about AMSOIL Formula 4-stroke oil Marine Oil 10W-40 (WCF)?

No it doesn't make a difference. I've never been a fan of amsoil anything. That said I've had great luck with the Valvoline 10w40 motorcycle oil or the XPS that BRP recommends.

 

[devonte007]

Thought I would chime in, looks like your questions about oil changes and oil have been answered but your other questions may have been glossed over...

4. with respect to cranking engine after initial oil suck out to get an additional 1/2 quart or so, I do not do it. Like I said, doing so may get you an additional 1/2 quart of so of the old oil out but you also risk starting the engine again with a dry oil pump which would do more damage in my opinion. Also, the engine will not start if you hold the throttle wide open while cranking the engine. This puts the computer in "drown mode" and disables the spark and fuel injectors and just cranks over the engine without the risk of starting. This is very useful for many reasons especially if you ever get the engine flooded with water.

5. These 4-tec engines have 2 completely separate cooling systems. The 'closed loop' cooling system is for the engine itself only and uses a heat exchanger at the bottom of the jet pump and coolant to cool the engine. The second system is the 'exhaust cooling' system which uses raw lake/sea water to cool only the exhaust system, mainly the exhaust manifold and hoses that exit the back of the ski/boat. When you run the engine on the hose you are cooling the exhaust system only, which without water, would heat up and melt very quickly. Even when you run on the hose, you are not supposed to let it run for more than about 2-3 min. b/c the engine is not cooled and the drive shaft seal (carbon seal) is also not cooled since it is out of water. Running longer than recommended will quickly degrade important parts of your ski.

Hope this helps some!

 

[sselzer]

Thought I would chime in, looks like your questions about oil changes and oil have been answered but your other questions may have been glossed over...

4. with respect to cranking engine after initial oil suck out to get an additional 1/2 quart or so, I do not do it. Like I said, doing so may get you an additional 1/2 quart of so of the old oil out but you also risk starting the engine again with a dry oil pump which would do more damage in my opinion. Also, the engine will not start if you hold the throttle wide open while cranking the engine. This puts the computer in "drown mode" and disables the spark and fuel injectors and just cranks over the engine without the risk of starting. This is very useful for many reasons especially if you ever get the engine flooded with water.

5. These 4-tec engines have 2 completely separate cooling systems. The 'closed loop' cooling system is for the engine itself only and uses a heat exchanger at the bottom of the jet pump and coolant to cool the engine. The second system is the 'exhaust cooling' system which uses raw lake/sea water to cool only the exhaust system, mainly the exhaust manifold and hoses that exit the back of the ski/boat. When you run the engine on the hose you are cooling the exhaust system only, which without water, would heat up and melt very quickly. Even when you run on the hose, you are not supposed to let it run for more than about 2-3 min. b/c the engine is not cooled and the drive shaft seal (carbon seal) is also not cooled since it is out of water. Running longer than recommended will quickly degrade important parts of your ski.

Hope this helps some!

Thanks for that help. I just ordered a Trac 7 L oil change pump, is there any certain brand oil filter I should buy or will any brand be fine. Sorry for all the questions, I'm only use to 2 stokes. Thanks

 

[KK40384]

It's better to ask questions that to find out something the hard way. I've personally used both the BRP filter and k&n filter with good results. I mainly use the BRP due to cost. My local dealer here that's a mile away charges $12.xx for one.

 

[sselzer]

What about the filters SBT sells for around $7.00?

 

[KK40384]

I haven't used one but at the same time I haven't heard anything bad about them.

 

[lamajama]

Heres some pics of my new ski.

Nice! I just bought my first 4 tec and it's the 2004 GTX SC and it looks like other than mine having a 2-tone seat (gray
inset) exactly the same. Not sure about the footwell covers yet....

 

[speedster98]

One question, does sselzer need to be concerned about the valve failure issue with the 04-05 models? Background info: there was an issue within those years with the valve stems breaking off (suspected corrosion) and dropping the valve in the engine.

 

[Speardoo04]

Yes, Im no expert by no means, but I have spent the last 2 weeks reading, researching, and ripping my hair out over something that might fail. 1k later and im doing the install... Wish I would have known.

 

[sselzer]

That's why I'm asking so many questions, because I did so many mistakes with my 97 Seadoo GSX. Don't want a repeat with this new to me ski.

 

[lamajama]

Stay away from the synthetic oil on the supercharged models. Here's a video I uploaded a while ago on how to change your oil yourself:

[youtube]rcm35HSHJqM[/youtube]

I think you did good on the price for the unit given it is in good condition. The trailer alone is probably worth at least 1k.

Nice video. Makes me feel like I could do it...! A Q on the oil.... I understand why on the SC but the local dealer says they put semi-syn in all
4 tec's SC or not and always have. A seadoo supplier I use online said the same thing. The manual I have says semi-syn but this is an NFG manual as it tells me to use the wrong plugs despite listing my doo on the front page.

I've heard your oil comment before elsewhere.. How did YOU determine your advice. Not criticizing at all I'd just like to refute the dealer actually as their oil is.....wait for it.....$15.99 CDN a litre (basically a quart to you guys....) local 10w40 motorcycle oil is $6.99 L.

Yeah I'm good with that price!

 

[KK40384]

First my local dealer told me to use the mineral oil to extend the life of the SC. After some research on how the SC works on these skis it makes sense not to use a synthetic or semi synthetic which is "more slippery", for lack of better term, then your conventional mineral oil. I've used the Valvoline 10w40 motorcycle oil in mine all but one time when I got a good deal on some XPS from a buddy that sold his ski and didn't need it anymore. While oil isn't the thing you wanna cheap out on there's no sense in paying $16-19 per qt or liter when you get the same performance out of the Valvoline which is $5-6 for the same quantity. I got mine on sale and only paid $3.99 per quart at my local autozone.

 

[lamajama]

That's the frustrating part. My dealer says use it - your's says not to use it...I don't want to cheap out at all either but
I'd just like them to get their you-know-what-together...and the manual like I stated was wrong in the plugs so I
have little faith in that too!

 

[Speardoo04]

Again I am no expert on seadoos, but I know how to read and research. AMSoil put up a pretty evidence that their Synthetic is approved for our application SC or not. Seems Legit. I downloaded the bulletin somewhere if you want to see it. Its AMSoil wcf 10w 40. According to AMSoil's Lab work, Seadoo employs the common technique of blanket "only use our oil or your engine will explode" statements.

 

[KK40384]

Amsoil in general is crap as far as I'm concerned. Wouldn't use it in my law mower much less a $3k 4tec SC or not.

Amsoil fanboys fire away.

 

[sselzer]

Rode ski for the first time in the Gulf, and the steering was so tight.
Is that normal or can I adjust it and loosen the steering abit
Thanks, guys

 

[red2blue]

Rode ski for the first time in the Gulf, and the steering was so tight.
Is that normal or can I adjust it and loosen the steering abit
Thanks, guys

Sometimes the overzealous can tighten the linkage at the nozzle....putting it in a bit of a bind. See if you can't loosen that lock nut a turn.