-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
Bought 95 seadoo SP, Clean overall aside from the engine components need to....
- Thread starter Mizzie
- Start date
- Status
The only way is with a rotating motor that has compression - sorry but you are a long way from this now, if marine mechanics was a future dream the future is right there, you can learn about pressure testing the motor and all the safeguards of a waterproof machine, you will have the hands on experience of a lifetime if you do get the moving parts remachined so they will work again as an assembly, read a lot and take your time, I did this with my 95 gtx I purchased from my cousin estate, it was not winterized only one year and the crank was spinning fine - still is after making many runs the length of lake erie but a lot of other details needed to be refurbished.
Mizzie
New Member
Wow.. well not to sound like i'm trying to do this half a$$ed but if can find a block that turns well..with cylinders and pistons for sale would i have any chance on swapping the cylinders onto my block, and hooking the included pistons up to my original pushrods and crank? (after I crack the case and clean it out and let everything soak real good and finish it off with compressed air)
Mizzie
New Member
Posted a want add on craigslist, got a few replys..
One guy sounds like he knows his stuff, has a shop and all said he would sell me a 587 longblock (just the whole long block.. no carb, no manifold, no electrical etc.) just the block, cylinder/pistons, all internals crank etc, head/head cover.
for $200..But I believe I can probably walk away with it for $150.. He said it turns freely (not siezed).. would this be a good idea for me to grab? I can't afford a rebuild or new block at the moment, I bought this jetski and paid off my jeep earlier this month.. so for now $750-1000 is just out of the question or I would have bought a better jetski lol.
What do you guys think? If this engine turns freely, could I open her up, clean it out.. buy new gaskets & ring seals, maybe even get it bored/honed? and hope it will last the season? and have my motor for parts (the few that are still good) ?
Boy I knew it would need work but I didnt think I got screwed this badddd!
-Mike
One guy sounds like he knows his stuff, has a shop and all said he would sell me a 587 longblock (just the whole long block.. no carb, no manifold, no electrical etc.) just the block, cylinder/pistons, all internals crank etc, head/head cover.
for $200..But I believe I can probably walk away with it for $150.. He said it turns freely (not siezed).. would this be a good idea for me to grab? I can't afford a rebuild or new block at the moment, I bought this jetski and paid off my jeep earlier this month.. so for now $750-1000 is just out of the question or I would have bought a better jetski lol.
What do you guys think? If this engine turns freely, could I open her up, clean it out.. buy new gaskets & ring seals, maybe even get it bored/honed? and hope it will last the season? and have my motor for parts (the few that are still good) ?
Boy I knew it would need work but I didnt think I got screwed this badddd!
-Mike
Last edited by a moderator:
Mizzie
New Member
Can anyone put some input on how to possibly slpit the cases so I can see the condition/damage to the crank and engine internals? I understand how to do it, but in my case the pistons are stuck pretty bad, can I remove the bottom half of the crank case with the piston/cylinders still attached to the rods/ crank? seems like it would be easier to take everything apart this way... ive had the pistons/cylinders soaking in ATF+Acetone mix for 24hours now.
Just went out and checked on it seeing if it soaked up some of the fluid but its at the same height i left it at which means its not seeping between the cylinder walls and piston... its stuck pretty damn good! what a nice motor!
Just went out and checked on it seeing if it soaked up some of the fluid but its at the same height i left it at which means its not seeping between the cylinder walls and piston... its stuck pretty damn good! what a nice motor!
Last edited by a moderator:
stickshift69
New Member
Yes you can take the lower case off to see. By seeing how bad the top end is im guessing the bottom isnt any better. The bearings are likely rusted solid as well and you cant just clean them and put it together, it wont last an very long. For $200 make sure the crank rotates smoothly when turning by hand. Your motor will need alot of work...
Mizzie
New Member
Thanks for the info, very helpful as always. One question I'm going to re ask just so I can do it tomorrow is, can I split the case witout getting the pistons out? Not that I'm being lazy about it I'd love to get the pistons out! But they are stuck pretty bad. I was thinking if I split the case from the bottom I could remove the crank and pushrods and then wack the pistons out from the inside. The engine is still soaking as we speak going on2days. Should I even attempt to turn the crank with a breaker bar? Not worried about hurting the pistons I plan to replace those but i'm worried about the cyl walls and crank.
Do I have to remove the flywheel and pto to split the case?
Do I have to remove the flywheel and pto to split the case?
Mizzie
New Member
Yeaa I know the engines going to need alot of work, my plan is to try and save as much of the engine as I can to save on cost. Plan is as follows, depending on if the crankcase split turns out decent..
Power wash, air blast and Soak engine case and internals in a corrosive eater/pb blaster bath for a week or so.
New pistons(obviously)
find a shop to bore/hone cylinders back into to shape.
New bearings.
Hopefully the crank and rods are saved.
Rebuild carb, rebuild oil pump or convert to mixed gas depending on pump.
I mean, does my plan make sense or am I dreaming?Haha. I have money put aside but I'd not to spend as least as possible in this just for this season than by the end of the summer I'll grab a rebuilt off sbt!
Hopefully I can crack the case and get good news!
Thanks,
Mike
Power wash, air blast and Soak engine case and internals in a corrosive eater/pb blaster bath for a week or so.
New pistons(obviously)
find a shop to bore/hone cylinders back into to shape.
New bearings.
Hopefully the crank and rods are saved.
Rebuild carb, rebuild oil pump or convert to mixed gas depending on pump.
I mean, does my plan make sense or am I dreaming?Haha. I have money put aside but I'd not to spend as least as possible in this just for this season than by the end of the summer I'll grab a rebuilt off sbt!
Hopefully I can crack the case and get good news!
Thanks,
Mike
Last edited by a moderator:
You will have to remove the mag end to split the cases enough to see what is inside, open the cover and the nut will loosen anti-clockwise but it is gonna be tight, maybe you can make this thing turn over trying to do this, what some guys do is wedge the motor under a car trailer hitch while twisting the nut off - do not hold your breath about saving the rotating parts, they needed to be in a oil bath years ago - a sand free oil bath that is, the other side of the rotary valve is the crankcase in case you have not looked this deep into the motor, me thinks you will be able to save over half of the bolts so far and a few more when you open the crankcase, every time I read this post it seems you have found more anchor than boat but if you take this from today to a running jetski you will learn a lot.
popasodatastie
New Member
Your getting closer
:cheers: I would get all the rust off and get everything cleaned up i have seen engines go through worse. Once you split the cases go through and find out what needs to be replaced and add up the total if it's more than 1000 dollars i would suggest a remanufactured motor if its less go that route i know people that if the crankshaft is bad go to hotrods brand. Pistons you can find those just make sure you hone the cylinders out and everything is smooth. I'm sure it will be in the water shortly. You could also onec you get the case apart i would take the motor and pressure wash it to get all the crap off and out of it.
:cheers: I would get all the rust off and get everything cleaned up i have seen engines go through worse. Once you split the cases go through and find out what needs to be replaced and add up the total if it's more than 1000 dollars i would suggest a remanufactured motor if its less go that route i know people that if the crankshaft is bad go to hotrods brand. Pistons you can find those just make sure you hone the cylinders out and everything is smooth. I'm sure it will be in the water shortly. You could also onec you get the case apart i would take the motor and pressure wash it to get all the crap off and out of it.
587 white motor
Mizzie...Guy got ahold of me today, for tune-up on his 1 ski, and he mentioned he has a running 587 w/elect., said he would dump it for 300 buks, downfall is were in CA, so shipping is around 100 buks, but if interested, hit him up...909-810-9017
Mizzie...Guy got ahold of me today, for tune-up on his 1 ski, and he mentioned he has a running 587 w/elect., said he would dump it for 300 buks, downfall is were in CA, so shipping is around 100 buks, but if interested, hit him up...909-810-9017
96seadooxpBC
New Member
Theres your best ticket to getting this thing running asap Mizzie, id do it.
Mizzie
New Member
Nice, if you get a chance can you check out the motor for me to make sure it turns? I want it thanks for the find!!
The rotating motor from seadooya is the best bet, especially if it comes with electronics - this will rise head and shoulders from the sandpit, be sure that anything you transfer over has been cleaned well with kerosene to flush away anything, ya kerosene smokes when it burns but it at least it turns, once you get it running a few times the smoke will clear faster than the sand, every repair job smokes a little when first going.
I should have added in the last post, after you get the motor in from seadooya and you see the old owner somewhere near the ramp where you go it would be funny to tell them you cleaned it up and someone loaned you a battery from a wrecked motorcycle and you are here for another fun day of riding. You should send seadooya a grocery gift card or something to check that motor.
cwb449
Member
Hi,
I had the same exactly the same thing happen to me so don't feel so bad!!!
What I did was split the case in half to expose the pistons from the bottom side (crank side) and pour the same
mixture you are talking about. You do this because a lot of times the corrosion will "seal" the
piston to the cylinder wall and the oil won't soak through. Fill the inside of the piston to the
top of the cylinder wall and let it soak for a few days, hopefully in warm sunshine to expand the metals.
After a few days try to tap the top of the piston downward " towards the crank" until it frees up.
Do this with a broom stick cut down to about a foot long or something similar. The reason for this is
you don't want to scratch the piston or the cylinder.
Once you have both pistons at the bottom of the cylinder turn the head right side up and support it somehow.
What you want to do is hone out the cylinder from the top so you can remove the pistons without damaging "scaring"
the cylinder or the piston and hopefully saving both for a fresh rebuild!
Next if you don't have one, go to your local automotive store and buy a cylinder hone "not a ball hone"
but the three prone one so you can adjust the amount of pressure against the cylinder.The hone kit usually comes
with three sets of stones, rough, medium and fine. You will also need a variable speed drill. DO NOT use a high speed drill
because you want be able to control the speed of your hone.
Once you have these items you want to use the finish stones in your cylinder hone. All you are attempting to do
is hone out the rust and scale to remove the piston, that's all!
The next part is messy so you don't want to wear good clothes. Fill the cylinder you are working on with a mixture of
Dawn soap and water...yes water! The reason why is you don't want rust and scale building up on the hone and scratching
the cylinder. This is the messy part, put the hone inside the cylinder and SLOWLY clean the rust with the variable
speed drill. Looking at your pictures you should only need to go down with the hone a little more than half way
so that's good, because you don't want to hit the top of the piston with the hone.
Take your time, be patient, work slowly!
Hope this helps!
I had the same exactly the same thing happen to me so don't feel so bad!!!
What I did was split the case in half to expose the pistons from the bottom side (crank side) and pour the same
mixture you are talking about. You do this because a lot of times the corrosion will "seal" the
piston to the cylinder wall and the oil won't soak through. Fill the inside of the piston to the
top of the cylinder wall and let it soak for a few days, hopefully in warm sunshine to expand the metals.
After a few days try to tap the top of the piston downward " towards the crank" until it frees up.
Do this with a broom stick cut down to about a foot long or something similar. The reason for this is
you don't want to scratch the piston or the cylinder.
Once you have both pistons at the bottom of the cylinder turn the head right side up and support it somehow.
What you want to do is hone out the cylinder from the top so you can remove the pistons without damaging "scaring"
the cylinder or the piston and hopefully saving both for a fresh rebuild!
Next if you don't have one, go to your local automotive store and buy a cylinder hone "not a ball hone"
but the three prone one so you can adjust the amount of pressure against the cylinder.The hone kit usually comes
with three sets of stones, rough, medium and fine. You will also need a variable speed drill. DO NOT use a high speed drill
because you want be able to control the speed of your hone.
Once you have these items you want to use the finish stones in your cylinder hone. All you are attempting to do
is hone out the rust and scale to remove the piston, that's all!
The next part is messy so you don't want to wear good clothes. Fill the cylinder you are working on with a mixture of
Dawn soap and water...yes water! The reason why is you don't want rust and scale building up on the hone and scratching
the cylinder. This is the messy part, put the hone inside the cylinder and SLOWLY clean the rust with the variable
speed drill. Looking at your pictures you should only need to go down with the hone a little more than half way
so that's good, because you don't want to hit the top of the piston with the hone.
Take your time, be patient, work slowly!
Hope this helps!
needforspeed
New Member
I have a 587 white bottom end which is good for a core. let me know. it turns freely but I think the pto seal went and leaned out the pto cylinder which seized the top end. The crank turns fine and the casses are good. But like I said it at the very least needs new seals. While it is out I would have it rebuilt.
- Status
