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bombardier shut off and wont start
- Thread starter proud2b
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If it has spark fuel and compression it would run.
Something is lacking.
A compression test would be helpful. Could be a timing issue as well.
Something is lacking.
A compression test would be helpful. Could be a timing issue as well.
Strizzo
Well-Known Member
ok, so it sounds like a gts or gti since in 97 there wasn't a 657 powered ski, but the 657 stator cover is the same as the 717 and carries the engine tag.
take a look at this and figure out which ski you have: http://www.seadoosource.com/seadoomodelreference.html
take a look at this and figure out which ski you have: http://www.seadoosource.com/seadoomodelreference.html
97GTXman has got you in the right direction.
Grey Tempo Lines MUST be replaced. Will need to clean or replace fuel selector, replace fuel filter and at a minimum clean the plastic filters inside the carbs using soap and water, not carb cleaner. Odds are high you will need to rebuild the carbs as well.
Until you do this NOTHING else matters. Even if the engine was trashed, you would need to do this for the replacement engine. Not suggesting you have a bad engine, just making a point.
Grey Tempo Lines MUST be replaced. Will need to clean or replace fuel selector, replace fuel filter and at a minimum clean the plastic filters inside the carbs using soap and water, not carb cleaner. Odds are high you will need to rebuild the carbs as well.
Until you do this NOTHING else matters. Even if the engine was trashed, you would need to do this for the replacement engine. Not suggesting you have a bad engine, just making a point.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
The gray Tempo fuel lines slowly dissolve and corrode, and the goo is carried into the carburetors with the fuel until the carbs become plugged and no longer flow fuel properly. A lean condition develops as a result, I call this a lean bog, loss of power, lack of lubrication b/c the fuel carries the lubrication with it throughout to all the oil-wetted surfaces, lack of lubrication (and piston cooling) due to fuel starvation is a leading cause of premature 2 stroke engine death.
Basically, the Grey Tempo Lines are allergic to the ethanol in todays fuel. The inside of the line deteriates and green gunk is formed. It plugs everything up that is related to the fuel system.
It creates a lean burn situation which DESTROYS engine. So the gunk affect performance and run-ability as qthe fuel is restricted getting to the cylinders and the lean burn will complete the job and trash the engine.
Sorry Sporster, I was typing slower...
Strizzo
Well-Known Member
you'll need to pull the carbs off anyways to clean them out, while you're in there you can make sure that the rotary valve is turning like it should. a lot of times when a motor just shuts off, its due to something going through the rotary valve and shearing the brass gear off inside the case. hopefully that is not the case with yours. I'd also do a compression check to see the health of the engine.
A compression test is a must at this point,,,
Strizzo
Well-Known Member
ok good, now you know the motor is at least worth a bit of work. pull the carbs and make sure the rotary valve is turning with the motor, then you can start replacing fuel lines and clean out the carbs.
since you're in PA, Dr. Honda near Pittsburgh does carb cleaning and refurbing for a reasonable price. PM him for info, I happen to know that the carbs he did for my 95 gtx were one of his faves, since they were packed nearly full of green goo.
Strizzo
Well-Known Member
if you have spark, it is strong enough to start the engine out of the water. if you want to be sure, you can unscrew the spark plug boots and clip the wires back 1/4" and then screw the boots back on.
just so we're all on the same page, tell us all of the work you've done so far.
just so we're all on the same page, tell us all of the work you've done so far.
no the ski wont start on gas, we checked all the fuel lines and replaced the fuel on-off switch, changed the plugs, checked fuses, did a compression test ( 140 each side), tried gas right in carb and still didn't fire,( it fired one on either)tried three different fuels thinking it was bad gas
Strizzo
Well-Known Member
ok, you still need to get the carbs cleaned. i've started yami skis in the past on wd40, but these rotax motors don't seem to do it. also if you're squirting fuel into the carbs, make sure it has oil mixed with it so that there is lubrication in the cylinders if it fires up.
while you have the carbs off, its a good time to service the oiling system, which has the pump on the rotary valve cover below the carbs. there are small injection lines that run from the pump to the intake ports on the rotary cover. these lines deteriorate as they age and need to be replaced periodically.
when i bought my 95 GTX i was lucky that it didn't run, because you could hardly tell that there were ever oil injection lines there they had rotted so badly. If it had started up, the motor would have been trash in about 5 minutes. there is a filter in the feed line that runs from the oil tank to the pump that should be replaced as well.
like I said before, if you're not comfortable cleaning and repairing the carbs yourself, [MENTION=16022]Dr Honda[/MENTION] does great work at reasonable prices and isn't far from you.
while you have the carbs off, its a good time to service the oiling system, which has the pump on the rotary valve cover below the carbs. there are small injection lines that run from the pump to the intake ports on the rotary cover. these lines deteriorate as they age and need to be replaced periodically.
when i bought my 95 GTX i was lucky that it didn't run, because you could hardly tell that there were ever oil injection lines there they had rotted so badly. If it had started up, the motor would have been trash in about 5 minutes. there is a filter in the feed line that runs from the oil tank to the pump that should be replaced as well.
like I said before, if you're not comfortable cleaning and repairing the carbs yourself, [MENTION=16022]Dr Honda[/MENTION] does great work at reasonable prices and isn't far from you.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Have you checked if the rotary valve still turns with the engine? I guess the best way is to remove the carbs and look down into the intake manifold.
Be careful of leaving any bolts or screws loose(they loosen by themselves from vibration), they can fall into the rotary valve and jam up the works, blue lok-tite thread locker is specified to keep screws from loosening and falling into carburetor.
The fresh fuel you're using, mix it with oil until you know the oiling system is working properly, 40:1 should be enough, I use 32:1 b/c I'm an oil nut when working on 2-strokes. A little extra doesn't hurt.
And yes, make sure the rotary valve gear box has oil inside or the brass gear will get torn up, so the oil system more than likely needs new lines if they're old, replace them every three to five years is a good idea. 3/32ID, I believe is the size you need, weed eater fuel line this size made of tygon is good stuff.
Be careful of leaving any bolts or screws loose(they loosen by themselves from vibration), they can fall into the rotary valve and jam up the works, blue lok-tite thread locker is specified to keep screws from loosening and falling into carburetor.
The fresh fuel you're using, mix it with oil until you know the oiling system is working properly, 40:1 should be enough, I use 32:1 b/c I'm an oil nut when working on 2-strokes. A little extra doesn't hurt.
And yes, make sure the rotary valve gear box has oil inside or the brass gear will get torn up, so the oil system more than likely needs new lines if they're old, replace them every three to five years is a good idea. 3/32ID, I believe is the size you need, weed eater fuel line this size made of tygon is good stuff.
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