Battery Terminal Repair

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FaceDeAce

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Ok folks. Here is one I am scratching my head over. How do I repair this? The battery is new, one month old, so don't tell me to replace it.

Ideas?

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Remove the screw. Tap it back down, use a soldering iron to melt the legs back together. Use a nut and bolt of the correct length.
 
I thought on this type battery with the floating nuts the bolt goes in front to back and not from the top.

Lou
 
Looks like screw was too long.

I've had some split on top corners too but not fully raise like that.

I use a hose clamp and crank down on it. Works perfect to keep it together.
 
No way you should cobble the heart of you ski to be out on the water and have it fail. Just ludicrous to even think that.
 
The hose clamps work great when top of lead starts splitting.

Now for the whole top of lead battery lug coming off I haven't rigged one like that.


Rob
 
The hose clamps work great when top of lead starts splitting.

Now for the whole top of lead battery lug coming off I haven't rigged one like that.


Rob

Not me bro, I just did a 17 mile stint in the ocean out of a 44 mile round trip. I ain't got time for hose clamps on my battery.
 
Not me bro, I just did a 17 mile stint in the ocean out of a 44 mile round trip. I ain't got time for hose clamps on my battery.


Too bad bro, it works great on a good battery.

The hose clamp isn't holding the cable on, it is more like a cage for the outer section of the lead square that you put the cable on.

I'd put it to any test, ocean, lake, hurricane,
 
i know its a new battery, but i'd replace it and write it off as experience. Now we know that you should use the bolts that the battery comes with. got a lawn mower or an electric winch you can use it for maybe then fine, but I wouldn't run that in my ski, its just asking for a problem.

I'd try to return/exchange it if you can, but it looks like user error to me, just depends on how fault proof the warranty is I guess.

I've made many more expensive mistakes than that so this isn't any spilled milk to me.

I routinely ride 30 miles each way on an outing so no way am I getting creative with the battery, i'm heading to the store.
 
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Are the lugs lead? Can it not just be soldered (melt/welded) back on and be good to go?

It is the bolt that came with the battery. I have a stack of flat washers on to space it off more. It is not binding. The top of the terminal "box" just lifted off.

It is an everstart agm battery. Good for my needs other than this repair needed.

I will put up a better picture tomorrow. Atm have the battery out on the charger for overnight.

Btw. I am nowhere near store. Out playing and the doo has got to get fixed and run for the next 4 days of play.
 
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??? What does this even mean ??? (Confused)

Basically, the battery is the heart of the ski. Without it, you will go no where and may be stuck floating out in the ocean or wherever you ride.

It isn't a good idea to go cheap or cobble things when it comes to a battery,,,
 
I've got a Lucas golf cart AGM in mine. They use zinc coated steel threaded terminals. No chance of those splitting.
Fairly cheap at £35-40 ($45-55). LSLC22-12G is the model.

Looking at the picture I wouldn't risk it either.
 
How thick do you think the base root of the post is. I am thinking of drilling and tapping into it.

I just check on a new battery local. At 187$, yeah not on for that. I have to make this other "new" battery with the broken post work somehow.
 
187 seems pricey... I've never paid more than $150 and thats for the 30L 4 strokers,, I'm used to $110-$120 ish for 16L's.

perhaps in canada its higher.
 
Canada is most always 35%+ higher dollar for dollar on most everything. If something is 100 greens it will be 135+ Canucks. What it means is take whatever price you pay, multiply that by x 1.35 and that gives you an idea what us Canadians are paying for stuff.

I am nowhere near a walmart until wednesday next week. And the Doo needs to run today. A new battery is not an option. This one is fine other than the post problem.

A service tech tells me there is a good thickness on the posts and to go ahead with drill and tap with no concerns. That is what I am going to doo. I will update later when it is done.
 
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There you have it. Fixed and working fine. Not my best picnictabletop machining work but good enough.
Drilled 7/16" deep down center of the post. Cut a 1/4"nc x 1.1/2" stud. Lock nut on bottom. Top nut for clamping wire lead.

Cost: 20 minutes + sunburn + 1 hotdog + 1 beer + 0$

When the weather turns, I will cut the other post off and do the same thing to that side.
 
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