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Battery Advice?

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timeman

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Guys, my boat is 4 going on 5 years old(2006 Challenger) everything on it is in pristine shape, I had my supercharger rebuilt and washers replaced at 100 hrs, she looks and drives like brand new... The weakest link as it were, is probably my battery, it's the original, and though I have a Schumaker battery tender on it 24/7 and it's never given me any problems, Im thinking it may be time to replace it. (Here in AZ battery life expectancy is 3 maybe 4ish years due to summer heat)....
Question, even if my battery checks out as okay, should I go ahead and replace it?...If I do, what type battery would you guys recommend?
I have heard some good things about DieHards?, and now there are these newer yellow/blue top gel batteries? I have heard some say that batteries you buy at auto parts places like Auto Zone or Checker are cheap, but other people have told me that batteries are batteries and the brand name companies also make the exact same batteries that are sold in those chain auto supply stores...My orig. battery is 550 CCA, is there any advantage to jumping up to say a 1000 CCA? I do not have a killer stereo that I am running for an elongated time, just want a good battery that will last as has my original...Any advice is greatly appreciated...
 
I hear a lot recommend the Die Hard.

My personal experience with batteries, not necessarily boat/PWC specific is that the ones I have picked up at Auto stores work just as well as any brand name. I am in my 30's and have purchased probably 3 batteries in my lifetime, all from Auto stores...never had to replace them. One vehicle I own is still running one and the others were sold in vehicles I owned after running for years.
 
Die hard platinum is the way to go. they run like $180 i think but are covered for 3 years free replacement.
 
Yes... I would replace your battery, and stick in a Die Hard.

Even if your battery checks out... it's getting to the end of it's life, and nothing is worse than having a dead battery sitting in the middle of the lake.
 
Thanks guys...a Die Hard it is ! Do I have to stick with same size cranking amps, or should I jump up a bit to allow more time to run the stereo? I really don't use it long enough to warrant adding a separate dedicated battery, and the thought of adding another 40-50 pounds in the rear seems like it would hurt the performance a bit...
Thanks again for the advice, this site is the best...
John
 
Marine batteries are different than car batteries. They dont vary as far as amps. It is based off the size. So it depends on what fits in your tray. I think it is usually a 24 in the number or a 34.
 
A little primer on batteries.

There are three major types of batteries. Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM), Gel, and Wet. Gel batteries use a conductive acidic gel as the medium, while wet batteries use a liquid. AGM is really a wet battery with fiberglass mats between the plates. The mats are soaked in the acidic liquid. With gel batteries, you have to be careful what type of charger you use. They are very sensitive to overcharging and use a lower charge rate then AGM or wet.

Gel and AGM batteries are always maintenance free. In other words, you do not need to check the water level. Wet batteries may be maintenance free, but some you have check the water level. If the water level is down, you need to add distilled water or you will destroy the battery.

Because Gel and AGM batteries have no liquid in them, they can be tilted over without damage. A wet battery can not be tilted without spilling the acid out. AGM and Gel batteries can also be submerged for short periods without damage. A wet battery will be ruined if submerged.

There is a big difference between a deep cycle marine battery and a regular car battery. A car battery is meant to only start the car. After that, the alternator handles the electrical needs. It is not meant to be fully discharged.

A deep cycle marine battery has larger/thicker plates and can be drawn down and recharged more often then a car battery without hurting it as much.

The other difference between a deep cycle and a car battery is, a car battery gives up a lot of amps quickly, but only for a short time. This is referred to cold cranking amps (CCA). A deep cycle battery gives up it's power over a longer time. This is called amp hours AH.

If you look at a deep cycle battery and a car battery of the same size, you will notice that the car battery has a higher cca, but a lower ah. This is because the plates in a car battery are much thinner and placed closer together.

If you are only using your battery to start your boat, then a car battery could suffice. However, if you anchor and play your radio, then you need a deep cycle battery.

Gel and AGM batteries also discharge slower then wet batteries no load. If you let your boat sit for long periods, you should use a gel or agm type battery.

In either case, you need a battery that has enough CCA to start your engine. The larger the engine and the higher the compression the more CCA you need.

Extreme hot or cold will shorten the life of any battery and will also decrease it's efficiency. The CCA and AH ratings are at 70 degree's.

The more expensive batteries tend to have thicker plates and will generally last longer. That is why there are batteries with different warranties. The longer the warranty, the thicker the plates.

Even the best batteries will only last 4-5 years under ideal conditions. Even if your battery is showing 13.5 volts while sitting, it may not be strong enough to start your engine. The only way to really test a battery is doing a load test.
 
captsteve, thanks for the education. When my boat is not in use, I have the battery attached to a Schumacher Battery Companion, it's a 1.5 A float charger that charges the battery then maintains it rather than continually putting in a constant charge. I have one of these on my Seadoo, which I use a couple times a month, as well as my little fishing boat which sits idle month(s) at a time. In both cases, it seems to work very well. Is this float charger something that lends itself more to one of the battery types you described, over the other?
Thanks again, you are indeed a font!
 
So one should expect 4-5 years out of a PWC battery assuming that it has been taken care of?
 
captsteveIs this float charger something that lends itself more to one of the battery types you described, over the other?

A float charger is just a charger that maintains a constant low amperage once the battery reaches full charge. It will work on any type of battery to maintain a charge. You can use it on a gel battery that is fully charged, but if you are recharging a gel battery, you need a charger that has a gel setting. High-end marine chargers usually have a setting just for gel.

Gel batteries need to be charged at a slower rate and in steps with different amperage, where a wet or AGM battery can be recharged faster.

So one should expect 4-5 years out of a PWC battery assuming that it has been taken care of?

Yes, assuming it was a good quality battery to begin with, it never got too hot or too cold, and your charging system doesn't charge, or under charge it. I have been able to get 7 years out of a high quality 8D battery on my big boat, but usually anything over 5 years is really good.

The problem with PWC type charging systems is the lack of alternators and good voltage regulators. Most of these crafts use a stator that just sends amps to the battery while the engine is running. It is not very sophisticated and does not do a good job regulating the amperage. On larger yachts, there is usually a dedicated marine battery charger that can cost thousands of dollars, but it measures the load, charging rate, battery temp, etc. Not so much on PWCs.
 
Just in case you were interested in the Die Hard, I looked and it runs 180 with free replacement for 3 years on the platinum and the regular die hard was 80 with a year. I think the platinum is the way to go and I will upgrade them when my 1 year old wal mart specials die.
 
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